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The front and rear bearings look identical other than the splined hole. The face to face and bolt hole pattern is identical. It plugs into the wheel speed sensor fine, but the plug retaining clip to bracket is a little different. I've seen 2wd Chevy Colorado's with 4wd hubs, and the hole is left empty. Obviously, the fronts will never work on on the rear, but what about the other way round? Any opinions?
You can run rears on the front. A lot of us do. The splined hole and clip is the only notable difference (SKF engineering confirmed it to me in an email), and if you're fine with that, just run 4 rears.
You can run rears on the front. A lot of us do. The splined hole and clip is the only notable difference (SKF engineering confirmed it to me in an email), and if you're fine with that, just run 4 rears.
Thanks for the reply. I'm fine with it. Rock auto had USA made rears for $23/ea and $10 shipping for 3. I bought enough to replace all the wheel bearings. A brake clean cap was the perfect press fit into the splined hole to prevent crap from building behind the center cap.
Really wish I would have thought about this before I replaced my fronts. I used the rears you mentioned from rock auto and got fronts off of ebay so it wasn't TOO painful but now I'm thinking about ordering more rears for the future if they still have some.....
Gonna interject an fyi here... I've personally seen wheel hubs split apart when they are run without a torqued shaft through them. Meaning when running a driven wheel hub on the front without a splined shaft and nut through them. Now I'm sure plenty of people do this but I personally had two of them com apart when run like this. Some guys have tightened a large bolt and nut through them to prevent this.
Gonna interject an fyi here... I've personally seen wheel hubs split apart when they are run without a torqued shaft through them. Meaning when running a driven wheel hub on the front without a splined shaft and nut through them. Now I'm sure plenty of people do this but I personally had two of them com apart when run like this. Some guys have tightened a large bolt and nut through them to prevent this.
How do you reconcile that with the fact that the V2 (and most other modern cars) run splined front bearings?
Gonna interject an fyi here... I've personally seen wheel hubs split apart when they are run without a torqued shaft through them. Meaning when running a driven wheel hub on the front without a splined shaft and nut through them. Now I'm sure plenty of people do this but I personally had two of them com apart when run like this. Some guys have tightened a large bolt and nut through them to prevent this.
I believe this would be correct if the splined internal hub shaft was two pieces. On these hubs it's one piece. Unless I'm missing something, there's no clamping action even with a bolt through it.
Really wish I would have thought about this before I replaced my fronts. I used the rears you mentioned from rock auto and got fronts off of ebay so it wasn't TOO painful but now I'm thinking about ordering more rears for the future if they still have some.....
Hopefully more come into inventory. I bought the last three they had.
Lol, I don't have to reconcile anything. Just telling my personal experience from using rear driven hubs on the front.. another platform not the Ctsv.. I wasn't aware the wheel hubs for the V were any different (two halves pressed together) than any other Gm wheel hub used on 99% of their product line. Do what you will Guys...
Fuzzy: most other modern cars??.... Most modern rearwheel drive cars are not running the same part as the rear driven hub on their fronts..
Seriously, dude? *grumbles and pulls out his SKF spreadsheet*
The majority of cars 2009 and newer are running the same wheel bearing on the back and the front (e.g. BR930674 on the 09-15 CTS/Camaro, BR930555 on the 09-15 CTS-V/Camaro ZL1, and BR930544 on the 09-13 C6 ZR1).
Where there's a different part number, it's because the car uses a passive ABS system and the wire clip is subtly different between the front and the back (e.g. the BR930537/BR930539 on the STS-V, which dates back to 2005). In a couple of cases (e.g. the V1 and XLR) there are two identical bearing designs, but one has a closed back and one has an open back.
As I understand it, GM now prefers to employ small splash shields behind the front wheel bearings instead of having to manage two different wheel bearing part numbers. The shields don't do much, but it's probably better than subjecting the bearings to direct water spray.
You only listed a few Gm models.... Not majority of modern cars. And idc what your papers claim. I've witnessed the issue I stated, first hand.. no need to argue, or whip out your spreadsheet d*ck size, because nothing you can say will invalidate my experience. I was just giving an fyi to people reading this.
Found my pictures of brand new GM hubs rear driven splined, that I separated with a clam shell on the press, to drill a new bolt pattern in... Nothing holding them together.
Now maybe some wheel hubs have a design where they are internally held together so that rears can be used on front.. or using the same hubs on all wheels. But not all do, so be careful.
Like Voodoochikin said NOT all bearings are made the same but I have also seen open/splined rear wheel bearings/hubs used in front end applications that have come apart because they require a axle with a proper torque on them to hold the assembly together. I'm not sure if the Ctsv is that style or not but he is not posting false information. Personally if it was me I would use the supplied correct part number from GM to complete the job the correct way, but that's just me.
For me this is a moot point for (hopefully) another 90k or so. But I do wish I had bought an extra pair of the rears when they were on clearance. I had contacted MOOG about them before I bought my rears and they told me nothing changed from them to the new part number except the part number.
Found my pictures of brand new GM hubs rear driven splined, that I separated with a clam shell on the press, to drill a new bolt pattern in... Nothing holding them together.
I believe that the Moog/(Timken?) bearing is identical. I've parked the car until I'm sure of whats going on. Looking at my top picture I'm still not sure what effect the half shaft has in holding the whole thin together. I'd assume the splines are integral to the hub face. If that's the case, it's just the press holding it all together even with the shaft bolted in. Please let me know if I'm missing something!
How did the bearing you pressed apart hold up? Back in the days of press in bearings, I was taught that this damaged the bearing. I did press one apart, and it didn't last long.
It does appear that some SKF bearings do have some type of swedge on the inside of the splined shaft to positively lock the bearing. together.
I did this to 4 hubs about 5years ago...They are still driving today. I can't quite recall the exact makeup, but when I ran them without axle nuts while I waited for them to come in, both sides worked their way out and I almost lost the wheels.
12-26-2016, 12:42 PM
Rear bearings on front of car? 
