Valve spring replacement with trunnion upgrade
01-30-2017, 12:06 PM
#1
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Valve spring replacement with trunnion upgrade I have just become a CTS V owner about a month
ago. So I'm looking to do the Straub trunnion bushing kit on my car. It's pretty much stock. No internal work done. Long tube headers, exhaust, no cats, Z06 flywheel and clutch kit, 1 piece driveshaft, upgraded cv axles, and that's about it. It's got 140k on it. I just want to upgrade the trunnions for peace of mind. From what I've researched I understand there not any issues with the 04 LS6 valve springs, if there is please let me know. Just wondering if y'all think it would be a good idea to go ahead and install a new set of valve springs while I'm in there upgrading the trunnions. Looks like stock replacement GM performance blue springs are $80 on summit. I don't plan on doing any type of cam swap in the car. I am more than happy with the power it makes now. Thanks in advance!
ago. So I'm looking to do the Straub trunnion bushing kit on my car. It's pretty much stock. No internal work done. Long tube headers, exhaust, no cats, Z06 flywheel and clutch kit, 1 piece driveshaft, upgraded cv axles, and that's about it. It's got 140k on it. I just want to upgrade the trunnions for peace of mind. From what I've researched I understand there not any issues with the 04 LS6 valve springs, if there is please let me know. Just wondering if y'all think it would be a good idea to go ahead and install a new set of valve springs while I'm in there upgrading the trunnions. Looks like stock replacement GM performance blue springs are $80 on summit. I don't plan on doing any type of cam swap in the car. I am more than happy with the power it makes now. Thanks in advance!
01-30-2017, 12:18 PM
#2
Wouldn't hurt. They do wear out eventually, and the LS6 cam, for a stock cam, is no slouch. I think worth the $80. Cheap insurance and might also prevent you from losing a little power as the springs lose their ability to control the valvetrain(as spring pressure wanes).
Be careful if you opt for the cheapie($35?) flat-bar valve spring compressor as it tends to pull sideways on the valve..keep the retainer pushed out with a screwdriver as you tighten down. I have the Crane compressor which presses straight down and is well worth the ~$100-$150 or so I spent on it. But I've used it on multiple sets of heads also.
Another V owner here has my Crane unit but once done, if you'd pay the replacement cost as a "deposit" I'd be willing to ask them to send it straight to you then refund your deposit once you send it back to me.
Be careful if you opt for the cheapie($35?) flat-bar valve spring compressor as it tends to pull sideways on the valve..keep the retainer pushed out with a screwdriver as you tighten down. I have the Crane compressor which presses straight down and is well worth the ~$100-$150 or so I spent on it. But I've used it on multiple sets of heads also.
Another V owner here has my Crane unit but once done, if you'd pay the replacement cost as a "deposit" I'd be willing to ask them to send it straight to you then refund your deposit once you send it back to me.
01-30-2017, 12:26 PM
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Wouldn't hurt. They do wear out eventually, and the LS6 cam, for a stock cam, is no slouch. I think worth the $80. Cheap insurance and might also prevent you from losing a little power as the springs lose their ability to control the valvetrain(as spring pressure wanes).
Be careful if you opt for the cheapie($35?) flat-bar valve spring compressor as it tends to pull sideways on the valve..keep the retainer pushed out with a screwdriver as you tighten down. I have the Crane compressor which presses straight down and is well worth the ~$100-$150 or so I spent on it. But I've used it on multiple sets of heads also.
Another V owner here has my Crane unit but once done, if you'd pay the replacement cost as a "deposit" I'd be willing to ask them to send it straight to you then refund your deposit once you send it back to me.
Be careful if you opt for the cheapie($35?) flat-bar valve spring compressor as it tends to pull sideways on the valve..keep the retainer pushed out with a screwdriver as you tighten down. I have the Crane compressor which presses straight down and is well worth the ~$100-$150 or so I spent on it. But I've used it on multiple sets of heads also.
Another V owner here has my Crane unit but once done, if you'd pay the replacement cost as a "deposit" I'd be willing to ask them to send it straight to you then refund your deposit once you send it back to me.
01-30-2017, 12:28 PM
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ls9 springs or valves? I mainly want to run the bushing kits just so I'll feel better about not having needle bearings in. I 5.3 swapped my jeep and it has 230k on stock everything, and I'm not worried about it at all. I just feel different about the V.
01-30-2017, 03:37 PM
#6
As said, springs are cheap insurance once you've got them out since they do eventually wear. I replaced mine when I had the top end apart and it provided a little peace of mind. A dropped valve is pretty catastrophic in these engines.
I also went with the trunnion upgrade, but I used Comp's solution instead. I'm happy with them. It looks like the Straub kit is about the same cost. I'm curious how they compare in terms of oiling and performance. Clearly the brass bushing is the simpler solution.
I also went with the trunnion upgrade, but I used Comp's solution instead. I'm happy with them. It looks like the Straub kit is about the same cost. I'm curious how they compare in terms of oiling and performance. Clearly the brass bushing is the simpler solution.
01-30-2017, 09:12 PM
#7
Originally Posted by JPCTS-V04
ls9 springs or valves? I mainly want to run the bushing kits just so I'll feel better about not having needle bearings in. I 5.3 swapped my jeep and it has 230k on stock everything, and I'm not worried about it at all. I just feel different about the V.
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01-31-2017, 11:54 PM
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I've decided to get the spring kit straub sells. They're same spec springs as the PAC 1218. They may actually be the PAC springs. Comes with retainers and locks. Definite peace of mind there. A buddy of mine got me a brand new powerbond 25% underdrive damper for free. Belt, tensioner, and idler too. Any thoughts on this? Anybody running the powerbond underdrive?
02-01-2017, 01:32 PM
#10
I've been looking into the dampers recently myself. If you're into road racing--sustaining high rpm for longer duration, cars with powerbond pulleys have had some failures. For a street car, I would imagine they're fine. There are superior dampers out there, though, but significantly more expensive. I'm leaning towards a fluidampr myself. ~$365 is the going rate. ATI has the best reputation and are the most expensive.
02-01-2017, 08:36 PM
#12
I agree with Naf, the ls9 springs are the way to go. I used them with my ls9 cam swap,simply for the fact that they are matched to the cam...
id use them in your application due to the fact that they are made for a slightly higher lift than ls6/ls3 springs... and cost about the same.
im a firm believer in not using springs with crazy seat pressures if the chosen cam doesn't need it. Yes you won't have valve float issues, but it will put the beat down on the weakest link.
Valve train components are the the parts that have the most movement and contact in an engine... it's the last place you want to much friction and heat
id use them in your application due to the fact that they are made for a slightly higher lift than ls6/ls3 springs... and cost about the same.
im a firm believer in not using springs with crazy seat pressures if the chosen cam doesn't need it. Yes you won't have valve float issues, but it will put the beat down on the weakest link.
Valve train components are the the parts that have the most movement and contact in an engine... it's the last place you want to much friction and heat
02-01-2017, 11:01 PM
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I agree with Naf, the ls9 springs are the way to go. I used them with my ls9 cam swap,simply for the fact that they are matched to the cam...
id use them in your application due to the fact that they are made for a slightly higher lift than ls6/ls3 springs... and cost about the same.
im a firm believer in not using springs with crazy seat pressures if the chosen cam doesn't need it. Yes you won't have valve float issues, but it will put the beat down on the weakest link.
Valve train components are the the parts that have the most movement and contact in an engine... it's the last place you want to much friction and heat
id use them in your application due to the fact that they are made for a slightly higher lift than ls6/ls3 springs... and cost about the same.
im a firm believer in not using springs with crazy seat pressures if the chosen cam doesn't need it. Yes you won't have valve float issues, but it will put the beat down on the weakest link.
Valve train components are the the parts that have the most movement and contact in an engine... it's the last place you want to much friction and heat
Are these the correct springs?
http://www.lingenfelter.com/product/12625033.html#.WJK82LVOKEc
02-02-2017, 11:30 AM
#14
I bought a new, unopened set of LS9 heads and took the springs off(sold them). Same exact springs as the LS3 and same specs as the later LS6/2 springs. They are just blue now. That being said, they are good springs for cheap. Usually about $60/set. Search "LS3 springs" and you'll find more offerings, but the price at Ligenfelter isn't bad.
You can use your same retainers and locks. A stock LS9 assembled head uses different retainers because of the titanium intake and sodium-filled exhaust valves which are a slightly different design. You obviously have retainers to match your valves. If you are going this far, change your valve seals as well. Should be integrated "hat" type seals in your case. Also very affordable.
You can use your same retainers and locks. A stock LS9 assembled head uses different retainers because of the titanium intake and sodium-filled exhaust valves which are a slightly different design. You obviously have retainers to match your valves. If you are going this far, change your valve seals as well. Should be integrated "hat" type seals in your case. Also very affordable.
02-03-2017, 02:17 PM
#15
I bought a new, unopened set of LS9 heads and took the springs off(sold them). Same exact springs as the LS3 and same specs as the later LS6/2 springs. They are just blue now. That being said, they are good springs for cheap. Usually about $60/set. Search "LS3 springs" and you'll find more offerings, but the price at Ligenfelter isn't bad.
You can use your same retainers and locks. A stock LS9 assembled head uses different retainers because of the titanium intake and sodium-filled exhaust valves which are a slightly different design. You obviously have retainers to match your valves. If you are going this far, change your valve seals as well. Should be integrated "hat" type seals in your case. Also very affordable.
You can use your same retainers and locks. A stock LS9 assembled head uses different retainers because of the titanium intake and sodium-filled exhaust valves which are a slightly different design. You obviously have retainers to match your valves. If you are going this far, change your valve seals as well. Should be integrated "hat" type seals in your case. Also very affordable.
02-03-2017, 04:11 PM
#16
I don't mind being wrong as that's when I learn...But proof please. As stated above, I bought a BRAND NEW IN (sealed) BOX set of LS9s and the springs were blue and the same as LS3s. LS9 cam is also relatively mild, FWIW. That being said, I've seen GM change suppliers on "LS6" springs several times resulting in different colors and bare with stripe(s).
02-03-2017, 09:02 PM
#18
Get the cheapest you can find from a reputable supplier that are the GM springs rated for .570" lift. Short answer is: 16 of the former or 1 of the latter part # you indicated. 1265033 is a single spring and 12499224 is a set of 16.
BTW, you will see some sites still list these as .550" max lift but my info is .570" on these. Early on, AFAIK there were some "LS6" springs that were rated for around .550" and then later on(last 5+ years) they all went to .570" rating.
BTW, Tlorenzen(he's around here in this forum) has that Crane compressor of mine and said he is willing to send it to you if you cover the few bucks for shipping(USPS should be $5). Plus of course a $150 refundable deposit to me to cover the tool. No sweat if not interested; just let me know so he knows whether to send it to you or back to me.
BTW, you will see some sites still list these as .550" max lift but my info is .570" on these. Early on, AFAIK there were some "LS6" springs that were rated for around .550" and then later on(last 5+ years) they all went to .570" rating.
BTW, Tlorenzen(he's around here in this forum) has that Crane compressor of mine and said he is willing to send it to you if you cover the few bucks for shipping(USPS should be $5). Plus of course a $150 refundable deposit to me to cover the tool. No sweat if not interested; just let me know so he knows whether to send it to you or back to me.
