Mussin

Spotted a black 2005 ctsv at a local dealer. 105,000 miles in pretty good shape. Took it out for a test drive ran great, shifted smooth even with the sloppy shifter. It appears to have aftermarket exhaust, all stainless. Going to take it out again maybe tomorrow, what should I look/listen for? It has black interior, tires look new, rims are in great shape. They are asking 12,000.

I've always wanted one of these.. Thanks.

vroom_vroom

iTrader: (5)

Motor mounts, they usually stain the side of the block when they go, listen for a rear end clunk when you let of the gas.

Plan on replacing all of the mounts, motor,trans, and rear. And with that many miles I would bet good money you will need a new drive shaft carrier.

In short. Rear end and all bushings are what to watch out for.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Not a terrible price if it's clean, but it could be in need of a lot of maintenance that these cars are prone to.

Just about anything with rubber in it will need to be replaced if it hasn't been already. Clutch? Shocks? Motor mounts? Differential bushing? If it's a used lot with no service records or prior owner history, it's a bigger gamble. If you can snag the VIN you can see if a local GM dealer (or someone on the forum) can pull the service records for it that would indicate some things that were fixed in the first 50k--namely the differential. My 04 had the rear diff replaced 3 times before 50k. The transmissions usually develop a vibration in 5th and 6th gear due to mainshaft wear. This is easy to test on a test drive once you near 80mph. A fix requires a rebuild, essentially. Otherwise, it's driveable and many people just live with it.

If you're ready for a project that you can turn into a mean street machine, then this is for you. If you're looking for something that's ready to rip, this may not be it.

Where are you located, btw? It may help to have someone who owns one go look at it for/with you.

vroom_vroom

iTrader: (5)

Bud is spot on. If you don't want to put time and money into it, it's not the car for you.(unless it's all already done) in all sank a few thousand in mine before I started on the go fast parts and I have had the car less than a year.

Now that the buyer beware is out there. If you are ok with putting some money in it and can get it at a good price, it's an awesome platform, has its faults like any other but it's a good car. Everyone told me I was stepping backwards when I sold my 5th gen and picked this up but one of my favorite cars to drive!

Mussin

I live in Lima Ohio. When I drove It I got up to 85. Didn't feel any vibrations or anything out of the ordinary. I'm not looking for a track car just a driver, I have a mustang I drag race, ya I know. The clutch feels good, suspension feels stiff with no noises. I'm going tomorrow to drive it for a long time and look it over real good. Just curious what to look for. Thanks! I'll report back with the vin number.. He said it was a local trade and they had to put a new radiator in it.

Niccorazi

Open up the engine bay and look for growling horses, if none are found, something is wrong.

CTSvOH

Get the VIN and take it to a GM dealer and have them pull up the service history like Bud suggested. Or if nothing else go to safecar.gov and see if there are any open recalls. I bought mine back in June and it still had 2 open recalls. So far I have learned that this car will nickel and dime you or quarter and 50 cent. I would suggest you take it to a mechanic and have them do an inspection. Check the 3rd brake light, it's probably out. Thats $200 for a replacement. Check all the window switches on each door. It's not an expensive fix if one doesn't work. Make sure the headlights work. It's a pain to change a bulb in the housing. Check the side skirts and make sure they are not coming off anywhere. I have noticed on some others and mine that they are popping off in front of the rear wheel. See if it has an owners manual, 2 sets of keys. Little stuff like this may not seem like much but it all adds up fast and it's something you can use to lower the price. And start the car up cold. When you do that make sure that the "battery not charging"screen doesn't comes on or the battery light on the dash. I hope some of this will help you out.

Mussin

Have it here in my garage, told the dealer I'd have for a couple of hrs or so. Vin is as follows
1G6DN56S250128338

It has no cats, an x pipe, magnaflow pipes and mufflers. Absolutely no rust what so ever under the car. The only thing is the clear coat is starting to bubble on the drivers side door right by the window. Drives great everything works, I tried everything.. are the motors silent running in neutral with the hood open? This one make a tiny bit of noise that I just call a v8. Engine is very clean. I don't see a spare tire in the trunk?

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

They came with run-flat tires from the OEM, so no spare is the norm. I keep a spare wheel I scored from ebay at home in the garage. AAA is my primary backup, though.

The LS motors are usually fairly noisy with valvetrain noise. If it's quiet, you're lucky. It may have some fresh OEM motor mounts, which are nice while they last (~30k). Once they go, you'll probably want to switch to the longer lasting polyurethane from our great aftermarket vendors--unless of course you like paying several hundred dollars to replace them every 2-4 years.

When you let the clutch out in first how much jerkiness is there? That was my first complaint when I got mine at 90k. There's a chance this one has an upgraded bushing if you haven't noticed it already.

Mussin

Not much jerking when the clutch is let out.. got all the paperwork on the car. It's a 5 owner car from New Jersey. Clean car fax, no accident, no open recalls. It's been in for 5 safety recalls
1. PCM software upgrade - 2005
2. Passenger sensing system- 2011
3. Unintended ignition key rotation -2014
4. Vehicle hesitation -2015
5. Front brake hose fitting corrosion

Mussin

It's been in for some warranty work. Front side door trim at 22,000 miles, upgrade reprogram pcm at 40,000, battery replacement 42,000. Install key rings both keys, 102,000
Fuel module and jumper harnesses 102,000, replace both front brake hoses 102,000.

The dealership that has it now replaced the radiator, clamps and coolant, oil change, replace wiper blades, replaced both fog lamp bulbs and relay.

Got them talked down to 11,000. Bottom dollar

88BlackZ-51

Sounds like alot of car for $11,000. What shape are the radio controls and V badges on the exterior?

Mussin

Badges are a bit faded, some controls are worn, mainly the 2 big buttons.

vroom_vroom

iTrader: (5)

11k is a probably about right. Paid 12.5 for mine with 106k and two sets of wheels last year.
2 owner car and the last owner was an old lady

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Great price. You've gotten a good outlook for what to expect in maintenance. If you're willing to make the jump, I'd say go for it.

Anthony Toal

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CTSvOH

Did you get the car?

Mussin

I was all ready to buy it this morning and the salesman I was working with texted me this morning saying the car is on hold and someone is buying it this morning. I was pissed, I guess he failed to tell the other guys I was coming in to buy it. Some dude came in the dealership last night right before closing and put it on "hold". He got it this morning... the sales man said he text/call me this morning, well needless to say he didn't answer my text or call. Guess it wasn't meant to be.. its a bummer too that thing was rust free..

Any nice ones around Dayton?

88BlackZ-51

Average condition....

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

I've got an 05 and wish I had held out for an 06 or 07. The ls2 has cheaper and easier horsepower potential being a 6.0. Bolt a set of comparitively cheap ls3 heads on it, cam it up and you're on your way without having to convert to an iron block or even pull the motor...