5 Lug Conversion Thead
07-21-2010, 01:12 AM
#22
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07-21-2010, 02:50 AM
#23
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07-28-2010, 07:09 PM
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I attempted to do the swap when I had my V. I got hubs from Oreillys for the fronts and used hubs for the rear. Then I orderd C6Z06 front rotors for all 4 corners. Just had to do a way with the parking break. I would have needed a atleast a 2" spacer for the rear and a 1"-1.5" for the front if I remember correctly but I ordered the wrong ones so I said FUQ the whole idea. lol!!!
I ended up liking the teamdynamic racing wheels better.
I ended up liking the teamdynamic racing wheels better.
whoa whoa whoa, did you say 2 inch spacer? as in it removes 2 inches from the wheelbase on each side of the rear?
If so, does anyone want to buy a built up gto? haha
07-29-2010, 03:00 PM
#26
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2 inches off the wheelbase would remove at least 50mm from the correct fitting offsets needed. This would ELIMINATE the ctsv issue with having little dinky lips due to the caliper clearance and stock suspension geometry.
aka..To hell with the stock c6 wheels, you could run like 0 offset wheels. I did the same exact thing to my acura tl by machining the spindles 32mm shorter, rethreading the spindles, swapping the hub and bearing assembly to a nissan 240sx hub, using a prelude rotor, and machined spacers to offset the factory caliper correctly over the rotor. This resulted in removing 32mm from the wheelbase on each side of the car with the same geometry and suspension design, just requiring different offset wheels as opposed to the factory +50mm requirement.
went from this wheel...
to this wheel...
(bigger lips than harlem nights, haha)
heres a shitty pic to elaborate on the difference.
picked up about 3 inches of lip total just in the rear alone. thats with only removing 32mm also. If around 25mm is 1 inch, 2 inches is over 50mm (probably conservative also depending on fender clearance and rolling/pulling), id bet you could gain literally like 4 inches more in just the lip size if those specs are correct and everything was dialed in correctly..
Then you could just order 5x120 lm20s from ccw, get the centers machined in the appropreate disc fitment so it clears the caliper, then order whatever offsets you wanted. At least 2x larger than any other ctsv ive ever seen... (Unless its some 7000 dollar chassis shop iroc z solid axle converted ctsv thats minitubbed.... that is deemed a dragster and can never be converted back to stock to sell to the average person..)
aka..To hell with the stock c6 wheels, you could run like 0 offset wheels. I did the same exact thing to my acura tl by machining the spindles 32mm shorter, rethreading the spindles, swapping the hub and bearing assembly to a nissan 240sx hub, using a prelude rotor, and machined spacers to offset the factory caliper correctly over the rotor. This resulted in removing 32mm from the wheelbase on each side of the car with the same geometry and suspension design, just requiring different offset wheels as opposed to the factory +50mm requirement.
went from this wheel...
to this wheel...
(bigger lips than harlem nights, haha)heres a shitty pic to elaborate on the difference.
picked up about 3 inches of lip total just in the rear alone. thats with only removing 32mm also. If around 25mm is 1 inch, 2 inches is over 50mm (probably conservative also depending on fender clearance and rolling/pulling), id bet you could gain literally like 4 inches more in just the lip size if those specs are correct and everything was dialed in correctly..
Then you could just order 5x120 lm20s from ccw, get the centers machined in the appropreate disc fitment so it clears the caliper, then order whatever offsets you wanted. At least 2x larger than any other ctsv ive ever seen... (Unless its some 7000 dollar chassis shop iroc z solid axle converted ctsv thats minitubbed.... that is deemed a dragster and can never be converted back to stock to sell to the average person..)
Last edited by RX666; 07-29-2010 at 03:11 PM.
07-29-2010, 07:51 PM
#27
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2 inches off the wheelbase would remove at least 50mm from the correct fitting offsets needed. This would ELIMINATE the ctsv issue with having little dinky lips due to the caliper clearance and stock suspension geometry.
aka..To hell with the stock c6 wheels, you could run like 0 offset wheels. I did the same exact thing to my acura tl by machining the spindles 32mm shorter, rethreading the spindles, swapping the hub and bearing assembly to a nissan 240sx hub, using a prelude rotor, and machined spacers to offset the factory caliper correctly over the rotor. This resulted in removing 32mm from the wheelbase on each side of the car with the same geometry and suspension design, just requiring different offset wheels as opposed to the factory +50mm requirement.
went from this wheel...
to this wheel...
(bigger lips than harlem nights, haha)
heres a shitty pic to elaborate on the difference.
picked up about 3 inches of lip total just in the rear alone. thats with only removing 32mm also. If around 25mm is 1 inch, 2 inches is over 50mm (probably conservative also depending on fender clearance and rolling/pulling), id bet you could gain literally like 4 inches more in just the lip size if those specs are correct and everything was dialed in correctly..
Then you could just order 5x120 lm20s from ccw, get the centers machined in the appropreate disc fitment so it clears the caliper, then order whatever offsets you wanted. At least 2x larger than any other ctsv ive ever seen... (Unless its some 7000 dollar chassis shop iroc z solid axle converted ctsv thats minitubbed.... that is deemed a dragster and can never be converted back to stock to sell to the average person..)
aka..To hell with the stock c6 wheels, you could run like 0 offset wheels. I did the same exact thing to my acura tl by machining the spindles 32mm shorter, rethreading the spindles, swapping the hub and bearing assembly to a nissan 240sx hub, using a prelude rotor, and machined spacers to offset the factory caliper correctly over the rotor. This resulted in removing 32mm from the wheelbase on each side of the car with the same geometry and suspension design, just requiring different offset wheels as opposed to the factory +50mm requirement.
went from this wheel...
to this wheel...
(bigger lips than harlem nights, haha)heres a shitty pic to elaborate on the difference.
picked up about 3 inches of lip total just in the rear alone. thats with only removing 32mm also. If around 25mm is 1 inch, 2 inches is over 50mm (probably conservative also depending on fender clearance and rolling/pulling), id bet you could gain literally like 4 inches more in just the lip size if those specs are correct and everything was dialed in correctly..
Then you could just order 5x120 lm20s from ccw, get the centers machined in the appropreate disc fitment so it clears the caliper, then order whatever offsets you wanted. At least 2x larger than any other ctsv ive ever seen... (Unless its some 7000 dollar chassis shop iroc z solid axle converted ctsv thats minitubbed.... that is deemed a dragster and can never be converted back to stock to sell to the average person..)
07-30-2010, 05:12 PM
#30
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Do you know what the word "wheelbase" refers to? Wheelbase is the distance between the front and rear axles/hubs. I believe you are referring to the vehicle's track, the distance between the left and right wheels (front OR rear). If you are going to use terms in your posts, you may want to use the right ones to maintain clarity and the appearance of intelligence
07-31-2010, 05:36 AM
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07-31-2010, 06:52 AM
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07-31-2010, 12:57 PM
#34
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If there is another way to fit wider wheels on the car, its not going to be done for as cheap, nor will it be able to be undone.
I did my gto stuff the way it is instead of a minitub on it because once you do that, you cant unbolt all the mods off the car and sell it to someone stock when you are tired of it.
You could sell the cts v hubs easily, if not trade them +like 1500 bucks for base model v6 stuff to someone on a cts forum wanting to convert their v6 to a v i bet. Take the 1500+ bucks and buy brakes for the base model hubs(using oem zo6 calipers and oem z06 rotors), and you are left with the same money and parts as you had, just now when you buy your wheels you can buy 5 lug whatever wheels you want in huge sizes.
thats probably confusing, its making me dizzy reading it. haha
the 6 lug deal really killed that car for me personally. It really limits what you can do with them. Like you are forced to buy the same 10 sets of wheels everyone does for them. Thats not that bad for most, but im a ******* riceboy who likes to sculpt my poop into (f)artwork. I just wanted something i could have a set of much more unique wheels on.. hehe.. That and the rear end stuff scared me into buying the gto instead. I still absoloutely love those cars though (the ctsv)..
I did my gto stuff the way it is instead of a minitub on it because once you do that, you cant unbolt all the mods off the car and sell it to someone stock when you are tired of it.
You could sell the cts v hubs easily, if not trade them +like 1500 bucks for base model v6 stuff to someone on a cts forum wanting to convert their v6 to a v i bet. Take the 1500+ bucks and buy brakes for the base model hubs(using oem zo6 calipers and oem z06 rotors), and you are left with the same money and parts as you had, just now when you buy your wheels you can buy 5 lug whatever wheels you want in huge sizes.
thats probably confusing, its making me dizzy reading it. haha
the 6 lug deal really killed that car for me personally. It really limits what you can do with them. Like you are forced to buy the same 10 sets of wheels everyone does for them. Thats not that bad for most, but im a ******* riceboy who likes to sculpt my poop into (f)artwork. I just wanted something i could have a set of much more unique wheels on.. hehe.. That and the rear end stuff scared me into buying the gto instead. I still absoloutely love those cars though (the ctsv)..
08-04-2010, 06:01 PM
#37
Yeah, I was going to mention that, whether anybody has tried swapping the V2 brakes and calipers, etc...I want to say they are an improvement over the 'vettes (not incl ZR1), as they are 15" dia and I want to say 6-piston?
However, the cost is probably pretty darn high and bet the wheel bolt pattern is odd on the V2 vs. a 'vette.
However, the cost is probably pretty darn high and bet the wheel bolt pattern is odd on the V2 vs. a 'vette.
08-04-2010, 06:12 PM
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I believe the V2 has the same bolt pattern as a Corvette, so the first step to swapping wheels and brakes from a V2 would be to swap to Corvette hubs like deedubb was doing. As far as the rearend or the suspension goes, they were completely redesigned from the ground up and therefore would not be a simple bolt-in. The engine (LSA), as you may already know, should be exactly the same as an LS3 swap, see the thread on the other forum "2004 CTS-V plus 2010 Camaro" for more info on swapping 58x Gen IV engines into V1s.
08-09-2010, 12:46 AM
#40
