LS6 Cam install notes and results
09-01-2010, 10:08 PM
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LS6 Cam install notes and results Been a lurker here mostly, but I purchased a 2005 CTS-V about a year ago. It was stock with the exception of a shifter, x pipe and skip shift eliminator.
I decided it was time to install some headers and a cam. Did some research not a whole lot of information on the CTS-V part, but lucky the LS6 is a well loved platform
I ended up going with.
Kooks 1 3/4 with factory cat connector pipes
TSP 228R 112LSA w/ PRC Dual Springs.
I also opted to do LS2 timing chain and new ported oil pump.
I used the LS1 howto for the cam install, extremely helpful but I have a few notes to add.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
1) There is no petcock on my radiator so I drained it from the bottom hose, bit messy but no problems there
2) I removed the coil side of the spark plug wire, then the coil packs, then the plug side of the wire. You can get at the plug boots easier without the coilpacks on. I know it's minor, but that order is easier.
3) There is no fill port on the CTS-V radiator, I filled it via the overflow tank.
4) This isn't new, but putting the crank pulley in the oven at 225 for 45 minutes before reinstall lets it go on like *butter*
5) I also didn't drill the throttle body, we have an ETC and you can turn it all without using a drill.
6) There is no AC dryer on the CTS-V that needs moving. But you do need to massage the AC condenser out of the way. You will definitely need to bend the position of the the lines but they bend back. I wouldn't think you could do that over and over since the metal would fatigue and fracture.
7) That oil pump pickup bolt is a tough customer to get out and put back in. When I put it back in I tied some dental floss around the bolt with a lot of slack on both sides of the knot so I could make sure I get it all off when I snapped it after it was threaded. Worked like a charm though.
8) That dipstick was a pain if you didn't note the original position. Basically, it goes in between the 2 and 3 exhaust runner on passenger side and angled behind the motor mount. Get someone under the car to help guide you.
Overall, it's a long job doing it in conjunction with headers, but the sense of accomplishment in doing it yourself is worth it.
I took the CTS-V to get dyno tuned and put down 376/350. I would hope for a bit more but TSP advertises 40 hp and stock people have said about 330-340 HP so I am right at the mark.
I am not sure how much an intake manifold or new filter assembly would help, but they are darn expensive for maybe 10-15 hp. Was pulling a slight vacuum about 5k rpm like 5kpa of vacuum. So I am sure some thing is choking the top end.
I decided it was time to install some headers and a cam. Did some research not a whole lot of information on the CTS-V part, but lucky the LS6 is a well loved platform
I ended up going with.
Kooks 1 3/4 with factory cat connector pipes
TSP 228R 112LSA w/ PRC Dual Springs.
I also opted to do LS2 timing chain and new ported oil pump.
I used the LS1 howto for the cam install, extremely helpful but I have a few notes to add.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
1) There is no petcock on my radiator so I drained it from the bottom hose, bit messy but no problems there
2) I removed the coil side of the spark plug wire, then the coil packs, then the plug side of the wire. You can get at the plug boots easier without the coilpacks on. I know it's minor, but that order is easier.
3) There is no fill port on the CTS-V radiator, I filled it via the overflow tank.
4) This isn't new, but putting the crank pulley in the oven at 225 for 45 minutes before reinstall lets it go on like *butter*
5) I also didn't drill the throttle body, we have an ETC and you can turn it all without using a drill.
6) There is no AC dryer on the CTS-V that needs moving. But you do need to massage the AC condenser out of the way. You will definitely need to bend the position of the the lines but they bend back. I wouldn't think you could do that over and over since the metal would fatigue and fracture.
7) That oil pump pickup bolt is a tough customer to get out and put back in. When I put it back in I tied some dental floss around the bolt with a lot of slack on both sides of the knot so I could make sure I get it all off when I snapped it after it was threaded. Worked like a charm though.
8) That dipstick was a pain if you didn't note the original position. Basically, it goes in between the 2 and 3 exhaust runner on passenger side and angled behind the motor mount. Get someone under the car to help guide you.
Overall, it's a long job doing it in conjunction with headers, but the sense of accomplishment in doing it yourself is worth it.
I took the CTS-V to get dyno tuned and put down 376/350. I would hope for a bit more but TSP advertises 40 hp and stock people have said about 330-340 HP so I am right at the mark.
I am not sure how much an intake manifold or new filter assembly would help, but they are darn expensive for maybe 10-15 hp. Was pulling a slight vacuum about 5k rpm like 5kpa of vacuum. So I am sure some thing is choking the top end.
Last edited by zinner; 09-01-2010 at 10:15 PM.
09-01-2010, 10:10 PM
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I should also note I kept the stock mufflers and there is no drone or really any negative sounds from the headers/xpipe. Just a slight lope on the cam and a 5.7 liter sewing machine under the hood is the only real difference.
09-01-2010, 10:29 PM
#3
Nice man... I just got the green light to get my cam around Dec but want to get to around 415 to 420 so I'm gonna have to look around for the right setup.. I'm wanting nice power but don't want it to feel like it only belongs at a track.. id like to get a chance to see one of the locals Vs with a cam so I can get an idea of what I'm in for...
09-01-2010, 10:39 PM
#4
Do a CAI and youll pick up around 8-10rwhp. I got my K&N off ebay for 256 shipped BNIB.
376/350 is kinda weak for cam and long tubes IMO. As long as it runs good though thats all that matters. I almost went with the TSP 228R but was speced the one from my sig through my tuner.
376/350 is kinda weak for cam and long tubes IMO. As long as it runs good though thats all that matters. I almost went with the TSP 228R but was speced the one from my sig through my tuner.
09-01-2010, 11:00 PM
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Yeah the cam choice, I knew was a gamble. My thinking was, get something off the shelve that you know works well with the LSx engines. You might leave some performance on the table, but it's less risky than getting something custom.
I see you are running some juice itsslow98, how does the car like that? I have a kit in the garage from my last ride I might put in there, lot of space in that spare tire well !
I see you are running some juice itsslow98, how does the car like that? I have a kit in the garage from my last ride I might put in there, lot of space in that spare tire well !
09-01-2010, 11:23 PM
#6
I made 88rwhp on 100 shot, then i did long tubes and the cam and made 106rwhp on 100 shot. The car runs its *** off, i do give up about 8rwhp N/A since i have timing pulled for the spray but thatll change soon once i do a timer tuner.
I dont spray a whole lot but the stock clutch is holding it pretty damn well, it does lock me out of 4th every once in a while when i try and rev it out to 6800.
BTW love my spare tire well lol.
I dont spray a whole lot but the stock clutch is holding it pretty damn well, it does lock me out of 4th every once in a while when i try and rev it out to 6800.
BTW love my spare tire well lol.
09-02-2010, 02:43 AM
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I'm almost in the exact same boat. I bought my car about a year ago and did headers/cam/ls2 chain/melling pump/double springs/etc a couple weeks ago and noted to myself a lot of the same things you brought up. I used ls1howto.com as well. It was very helpful to have pulled up on my phone while torquing everything down and having reminders about funky parts of the install.
I can't wait to find time to finish tuning it and get it on the dyno and to the track.
Yesterday morning I noticed what sounds like a possible loose rocker in the driver's side. I used loctite on every bolt during the install and used a very nice electronic tq wrench from a technician buddy of mine so I'm certain everything was tightened down, but **** happens. I'll tear it down Friday.
I can't wait to find time to finish tuning it and get it on the dyno and to the track.
Yesterday morning I noticed what sounds like a possible loose rocker in the driver's side. I used loctite on every bolt during the install and used a very nice electronic tq wrench from a technician buddy of mine so I'm certain everything was tightened down, but **** happens. I'll tear it down Friday.
