wes8398

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys. Yesterday I went to start my v and got nothing but a single "click" when turning and holding the ignition. I would get another "click" several seconds after releasing the ignition. Tested battery and it was fine. Checked connection to starter, seemed fine. Gave it several more attempts all with the same results.
Thankfully my driveway has a bit of an incline, so I used this to "bump start" the car by myself; fired up fine. I swung it by a mechanic's, pulled it into a bay and he said "ok, give it a try" while he listened. The bastard fired right up. And again. And again about 10 times. It's been starting fine since.
Obviously I'm thankful it didn't cost me anything, but I'm just wondering if this can be filed under "fluke" or if it's a sign that my starter needs some work. What do you think? Did the aperture just get stuck? Are the brushes wearing out? Other ideas?

Thanks and happy new year!

chitown21y

iTrader: (6)

I am thinking starter solenoid. I would have a replacement ready.

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

My thoughts too. Rebuild or replace? If replace, whole starter or just solenoid?

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Its an epidemic ...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...art-issue.html

safemode

iTrader: (1)

usually you only get a dead spot on a starter if you overheated it. Usually via non-functional radiator fan or holding the starter on for way too long when starting.

I would double check your grounds from the engine block to the battery and your power to the starter to make sure it's not even a little loose. When you are dealing with hundreds of amps even a tiny amount of play in a wire is enough to give you intermittent high resistance.

I would replace the whole unit if it still gives you issues after you re-check the wiring so you get a lifetime warranty and this doesn't cost you anything in the future. I think pepboys or autozone offer that deal.

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

check the pigtail going to the starter...they get heatsoaked and crumble.. try removing the plug and illbet it falls apart in ur hand

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

I was geared for that very evolution.

But mine clipped and unclipped just fine. Also, the wire and insulation was stiff, but still flexible.

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

I'll add that to my list of things to check out. If the pigtail crumbles, are they easliy accessible? Dealership part?

xxrillixx

iTrader: (118)

Starter.

Just had this happen to my camaro 2-3 days ago. New starter and it started right up. Ive never tried replacing just the solenoid, so i cant comment on that.

bamacaddy

iTrader: (1)

I checked the list from my local auto parts store and they do not show that being a stockable part....along with about 94% of the rest of the parts on the V. They have a feature where you can go and check by vehicle and basically pull up the same screen that they have there in the store.....The parts they have available are at the top. VERY limited list of things that are offered aftermarket. Good Luck and maybe this won't be an issue.... Most of the time I have had to replace the connecting wires when replacing a starter, maybe because of the extreme heats here in the Summer.

Stepside

How long was your car inactive before trying to start it?
"tested the battery, it was fine" Was it a 'LOAD' test?
How old is the battery?

If your car has not been started for several days or week + and your battery is more than two years old, then, the battery may be 'low'.
Jump starting it replaced enough of a 'charge' to keep it 'firing up'.

Also, a resistance can build between the positive terminal and the cable connection, causing enough voltage drop to prevent it from starting, especially if the car had not been started in a week or more.

If the battery is getting weak, then this will happen again when there is a significant temperature drop.

good luck

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the info. To clarify, I didn't jump start it to get it running, I BUMP started it.
The car is my DD, so it had just been sitting overnight. I'm not sure how old the battery is, but I did somewhat of a "load" test on it just using the DIC voltage output reading. All seemed fine. It dropped to 11.6 when I had the key turned over.

kevm14

I am thinking the delayed click after releasing the ignition is from the auto-start logic in the PCM. That's when it releases the solenoid, since it sees a failed start.

My intermittent starter issue, however, has no solenoid clicks at all.

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

I'm sure the delayed click was just the solenoid disengaging. Didn't think it was part of the problem. Fingers crossed that I can get away with keeping this starter a while longer.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

As a matter of fact, mine would click and then click again a second or so later, but it was at a different pitch. that is, the initial click wasn't the same as the last click.

turning the key on and off start to run anything, made no difference until the second click was heard.

All symptoms point to a starter, based upon my limited experience. So its not a matter of if, rather when the starter gives it up.

If your luck is anything like mine, it will fail while you are parallel parked, uphill both ways, as a massive hail storm begins with free, empty, covered parking just across the street and they serve free beer with proof of parking.

GREG O.

iTrader: (4)

check Summit and Jegs...I also own a Syclone and the heat from the tubo and pipes causes those starters to go up....u could get a mini starter with much more torque probably a lot cheaper than a factory one or a POS Pep Boys....i think i paid $168.00 6 years ago..The best investment i ever made on the GMC Syclone.... good luck

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

Hmmmmm.... why wouldn't everyone just replace with mini starters since they're so much cheaper? What are the trade-offs, if any?

GREG O.

iTrader: (4)

look at this link....there are no trade off's...except the mini hightq. starter might cost a little more...good luck
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12361146/

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

I must have been looking at the wrong minis cause I thought they were actually cheaper than the autozone type ones ($150).

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

I doubt it'll work.