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I just bought my V a short while ago and it is making a rattle noise from the front suspension when it hits bumps. I was thinking that it may be the sway bar end links because they are stock and its lowered with eibach's and they are cut a little. I have read how these can break if they are to long when lowered?
Also what else should I check?
__________________ 2005 CTSV, Kooks LT's,High flow cats,B&B cat back Exhaust, ls7 clutch/flywheel, UUC shifter, fg2's, Black CS MM/Diff Bushing, Eibach Springs, 19x8.5/10" Linea Corse Venetos, Hankook v12 evo 285/35/19 - 255/35/19, NGK-tr55ix, Volant CAI, BMR trailing arms,Revshift cradle/rear upper control arm bushings.
The Z06 endlinks are about an inch shorter, iirc, so yeah they should work on a lowered vehicle. Don't buy them from the dealer and instead buy some moog from somewhere like www.rockauto.com (search for a 5% off coupon code too). You can get them cheaper there than people even selling them used and moog > oem stuff [I bought some moog for mine, although stock and they are beefier and just better quality-looking than the stuff that came on the car]. They also sell some chinese crap too, so stick with the good stuff and Moog is one of the last 'good' manufacturers out there and still made in USA.
Probably doesn't hurt to replace the rubber bushings on the swaybar brackets (that attach to 'frame'), as they crack and allow slop. Those unfortunately you may need to get from dealer, but they are pretty cheap, at around $10-12, iirc...You can get some universal greasable polyurethane from energy suspension, but our swaybar is a weird size, so you either need to get the smaller ones (25 mm) and 'open' the hole to 26.6 mm, or get the 27 mm and use some sort of sleeve to make up the 0.4 mm. That is what I plan on doing at least.
Ditto on the sway bar links. Lowered cars will eat them. Try the Powergrids and pay the extra bucks for the adjust ability. Getting the correct length will save you money and trouble in the long run. Ask me how I know this
__________________ [CTS V Redline 05 . MOTOR-- Katech LS6 stage II heads and cam, FAST102 with NW102TB, Kooks 1 3/4, free flow cats, Corsa, Lingenfelter CAI with Stealth intake tube, UUC shifter, UUC motor mounts, UUC trans mount, UUC diff mount, Exedy twin GT04SD clutch. Mocal oil cooler BRAKES/SUSPENSION-- UUC 2 piece rotors, Hotchkiss sways, KW V 3 coilovers, MAP trailing arms, Spectre cradle bushings, BMR toe rods, Sparco seats / Schroth harnesses, Corner weighed, Team Dynamics 275/35/18 Hoosier GACs
You'll be happy with the Moogs and I've been pleased with rock auto (if you ever get anything else in future)...I am not 100% which years Z06 work (C5 or C6), so double check with searching...
Forgot to mention, the Z06 endlinks have a slightly larger stud (M12 vs M10 iirc), so you may need to drill out your holes a little. No big deal, but something to be prepared for if you wonder why they don't go thru the holes
Jack the wheel up off the ground and grab the tire at 9 and 3 o'clock and give it a good shake back and forth. If you feel play or can see play in the tie rod, then it needs to be replaced. You can try this with the suspension loaded (jack under control arm) and unloaded (jack under frame).
Also check the swaybar mounting bushings & clamps, tie rods, upper/lower control arms, and strut mounts.
Bumping an older thread because I am experiencing a similar issue. '05 with 97k miles that is new to me. I, too, am getting a pretty good front end and rear rattle when going over bumps and potholes, etc. Had the car up in the air and while holding the tire, I get up and down movement on both the left front and right rear. Nothing side to side so the steering pieces seem ok. Suspension is bone stock and the sway bar end links are new.
So what are the common failure points? With the up and down movement, I'm thinking ball joint. Now is it the upper or lower that goes bad on the front? What about the rear? How about control arm bushings, which ones are the best ones to check for failure first?
The plan is to do a major refresh on the suspension with new shocks and some lowering springs(MM rear shock kit ordered). Should I just get Moog ball joints or is it worth it to step up and get new loaded control arms?
I had a rattle when I bought my car. Ended up being the sway bar bushings. I now have the full revshift poly bushing kit on my car. No more rattle and the car feels wayyyyy better.
__________________ 04 Caddy CTS-V: full Revshift poly suspension bushing kit, Revshift rear diff bushings, CAGS, muffler/resonator delete, H&R lowering springs and MM spacers- that's it for now...//\\04 Silverado 4x4 35x12.50's,18in XD Monsters, DNA Racing longtubes,Dynomax catback-soon to be lifted!
Yeah, I'd do this stuff one at a time 'cause it's probably one thing ... some stupid, simple one thing.
Great ideas guys thanks. The only issue is that those fixes don't explain the up and down rocking I get with the wheel. Seeing that the front lower ball joint seems to be the only item readily available, I'll go ahead and replace those.