Schoeny

iTrader: (1)

My brakes started squeaking about two weeks ago after having been silent since I bought the car in early March. It was just upon applying the brakes, but at all times when in motion.

At first I was worried it was more than the brakes, but as I began to read up on here, I found out about the wear indicators. Eyeballing the brakes through the wheels, they didn't look overly worn, but I decided to go get a jack/stands and some pads to try and remedy this situation (it is EMBARASSING driving a car that squeaks like that).

Swapped out the passenger side pads, they didn't look too bad, still had life in them but while I was there I replaced them.

Moved over to the driver side, pulled the outside pad, same thing, looked decent. Then I got to the inside pad on the driver side and found my culprit. It turns out it may have been time to do it after all (comparison shots with new pad).



I just wanted to say thanks to the forum and it's search function

Also have something to add, I read that you could squeeze the pistons in by hand, so I didn't buy the piston spreading tool (not that any were avaliable locally). My fingrs must be too big or I was grabbing from the wrong spot because that wasn't happening. So being the DIYer that I am, I grabbed a piece of cardboard from the box the jack came in, and my vice-grips and put the cardboard on the outside of the caliper and squeezed. Worked like a charm, not a mark on the caliper.

jenks40

iTrader: (3)

looks to me like you were down to metal on metal. may want to look at a new rotor (or have it turned) also.

Schoeny

iTrader: (1)

If it still runs with no wobble, no squeak, and the new pads bedded OK, do I still need a new one? There wasn't any obvious damage to the rotor (to my untrained eye. Didn't look any different than the other side with the pad with material left), and I don't plan on ever tracking the car.

I figure the rears probably aren't far behind the fronts, and when that happens, I'll get better pads all around (these were cheap Autozone pads just to get rid of the squeak), so I could do it then if I really need to.

rjoffe

As far as squeezing the pistons in. The method I use is to leave the old pads in the calipers, and start with the inboard side, I use the old pad as a lever, and use it to compress the pistons. I usually have to pull out the old pad about half way to achieve this. Once that side is compressed, I swap out just the inside with a new pad, and repeat with the outboard side. I've never had to use a tool .

Schoeny

iTrader: (1)

You leverage it up against the rotor? I thought about that, but wasn't sure if that would damage it at all.

rjoffe

I do leverage against the rotor face.

jenks40

iTrader: (3)

I wasnt trying to say it absolutely needed replaced. If it felt fine and you don't have any pulsating or anything I wouldn't worry about it. I personally change rotors when I do pads on most of my vehicles because rotors have gotten sooo cheap. Not sure if that will be the case with the V though.

aurora40

iTrader: (1)

Maybe your pistons are sticking? Something unusual had to happen for one pad to wear like that, either a problem with the particular pad or a problem with the brake system.

munsonbw

iTrader: (1)

To show that I am a noob, do the V calipers float? I assume they do, as I can' think of a single car I have worked on that did not. Severely different wear inside to outside is often times a sign that your caliper pins need greased.

The thing to look for in assessing the need to replace the rotors is severe wear like ridges or grooves. These will really decrease the effectiveness of the system until the new pads wear to match the old rotors. After that, I suppose it doesn't really matter but the life of the new pads might not be as good. And, generally speaking it is poor form.

aurora40

iTrader: (1)

Generally only calipers with pistons on one side "float" or slide. I have not actually changed any brake components yet on the V, but would guess the Brembos are a fixed caliper. I've never seen a brake caliper with opposed pistons that wasn't fixed. Though it's not like I've seen it all in terms of brakes.

munsonbw

iTrader: (1)

I haven't finished my morning Mountain Dew. I think you are right, calipers with pistons on both sides would not need to float. In fact, it may actually have a negative affect if they did. I now support the stuck piston theory. If one of the inside pistons were stuck the pressure inside the caliper halves would be balanced, but the force on each pad would not be due to some of the force being used to oppose a stuck piston (that isn't applying its force to the pad).

To me, the difference between your inside and outside pad is huge and I would look into it. I am no master mechanic and I obviously am not educated on the Brembos, but brakes are a serious issue and running around with a questionable system seems like a really bad idea.

Blakt Out

The brakes on the V are very similar to the mondo-expensive Brembo GTR brakes that I put on my Porsche track car. They are wonderful. They are also, as some have mentioned, not floating calipers. Here's the definition of a floating caliper (which is rare... however floating rotors aren't so much in high end cars but are totally different).

"Fixed calipers have a rigid mount to the frame or fork and in combination with a fixed rotor offer the only consistent method of achieving zero free running drag. Floating calipers are able to slide axially on shafts and allow the caliper to self center during each braking application."

As far as the pad wear, since you didn't install these, you really never know what the guy before you did. I wouldn't think too much of it just yet. However, when you got the new pads in, it would be a good idea to have let the car just roll (as in slower than you can walk) with the window down. Listen to hear if you can tell if it sounds like one is dragging. If that inside pad is dragging with a new pad on it, then you do have a piston that is sticking. Since these are essentially Brembo aftermarket brakes, you likely could just have it rebuilt with new seals and be good. Any performance shop should be able to do this. I know you said that you are a DIY'er, but this might be too much.

SoJersey05V

v is the easiest brake job ever! and you will never get every pad to be worn the same. on my v the passenger inside pad wore the most...

aurora40

iTrader: (1)

Did you look at his pictures? One pad looked like it had 75% left while the other was to the backing plate.

They wear relatively the same, that is why usually only one side had a wear indicator.

SoJersey05V

No his pics didn't show on my phone... yea that's not good.. mine were close, but always one 1st

DirtyDirk

You could have a slider stuck from not being greased properly. Just clean sliders & apply a small amount of of grease on them.

rjoffe

Sorry, but what are you talking about ?

Schoeny

iTrader: (1)

Guys, the pictures above were of the bad one, and the brand new ones I was replacing them with.... The other ones I took off didn't have a ton of life left on them, but they also weren't down to the metal like that one.

aurora40

iTrader: (1)

Ah... Then maybe nothing is wrong.