Completely new stereo is in. No issues. What's the big deal?
#1
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Completely new stereo is in. No issues. What's the big deal?
Hey fellas -
In the past, I've searched on here for ideas regarding what fellas have done with their Gen 1 V's in the way of the stereo and getting rid of that horrible nav system. EVERY THREAD that I found, and every comment that I received, was along the lines of "it'll mess up everything if you replace the head unit, so if you gotta have a new one, you should put the OEM one somewhere (like in the trunk) so that you maintain all these important things." While I appreciate ALL help, I had to find out for myself if this was true. The option of putting the OEM one in the trunk somewhere seems so silly, honestly.
So, I installed a Sony unit with all the bells and whistles. It has Tom Tom navigation, which I think is wonderful. I installed Infinity speakers in the doors, powered by a 100X4 Orion amp, and 2 Orion 10" XTR-Pros in a box in the trunk powered by a JL 1000/1. We used a PAC adaptor for the head unit(I forget the model number but it's the same one that is called for when you search for it, like on Crutchfield). We took out the factory sub so that the air can get from the trunk to the cabin (and it made a HUGE difference). We took out the factory amp. We used the OEM speaker wire through the door hinge areas and down to those speakers.
Guys, it all works perfectly. I have no random door chimes. I have no lights on the dash. Granted, I actually have to do the math if I want to know my mpg, but who cares.
There has been a huge deal made about losing Competitive Driving Mode. If you saw my other posts, this was a big deal for me too. I thought that CDM was traction control fully off, but it's not. Traction Control OFF is traction control off. CDM is a middle ground. Maybe some of you knew this, but this wasn't the solid council that I got. I was SURE that I had to be able to take TC off. I don't much care about CDM. If I'm on the track, I want it all off. If I'm on the street, I'm on the street and want it on unless I'm, well, driving like I'm on the track.
So, with that said, I have no way to put it in the intermediate CDM, but TC definitely turns off and on from the steering wheel and the button in the glove box.
I can't imagine someone understanding this situation fully and still deciding to either cut the factory dash and put another screen below the OEM one or put the OEM one in the trunk JUST to tell what their fuel economy is or to get the intermediate intervention of CDM. Were these decisions really made understanding this?
Either way, I wanted to be a voice out here for all others who might feel like I do about it all and would like to know what actually happens when you simply swap it out straightforward like you would any other car.
I assure you all that what I have said here is reliable.
As a side note, I kept the OEM unit until I was sure that I wasn't missing something here. I'm not. So I sold it on eBay last week. Also, as you see in the pics below, the dash kit is a different color than the rest of the dash. It really shows up in the pics, but it actually looks good in person. I intended to have it professionally paint-matched. It looks good as it is though.
Also, as you see in the pics, I just have the subs in a box in the back. Again, that's because I wanted to see if it would all work. I'll likely soon be having a fiberglass enclosure put into the wheel well. I have to figure out if the space in the trunk while I'm on the street is worth the weight when out on the track.
Let me know if I can answer any questions for you guys. I intend this to be a factual basis for you guys and future V guys to make decisions on your car stereo. I got bad info. I'm glad I went with my gut and did it anyway.
This pic is to show the Bluetooth mic. It's so nice to have full iPhone integration via BT in the car.
In the past, I've searched on here for ideas regarding what fellas have done with their Gen 1 V's in the way of the stereo and getting rid of that horrible nav system. EVERY THREAD that I found, and every comment that I received, was along the lines of "it'll mess up everything if you replace the head unit, so if you gotta have a new one, you should put the OEM one somewhere (like in the trunk) so that you maintain all these important things." While I appreciate ALL help, I had to find out for myself if this was true. The option of putting the OEM one in the trunk somewhere seems so silly, honestly.
So, I installed a Sony unit with all the bells and whistles. It has Tom Tom navigation, which I think is wonderful. I installed Infinity speakers in the doors, powered by a 100X4 Orion amp, and 2 Orion 10" XTR-Pros in a box in the trunk powered by a JL 1000/1. We used a PAC adaptor for the head unit(I forget the model number but it's the same one that is called for when you search for it, like on Crutchfield). We took out the factory sub so that the air can get from the trunk to the cabin (and it made a HUGE difference). We took out the factory amp. We used the OEM speaker wire through the door hinge areas and down to those speakers.
Guys, it all works perfectly. I have no random door chimes. I have no lights on the dash. Granted, I actually have to do the math if I want to know my mpg, but who cares.
There has been a huge deal made about losing Competitive Driving Mode. If you saw my other posts, this was a big deal for me too. I thought that CDM was traction control fully off, but it's not. Traction Control OFF is traction control off. CDM is a middle ground. Maybe some of you knew this, but this wasn't the solid council that I got. I was SURE that I had to be able to take TC off. I don't much care about CDM. If I'm on the track, I want it all off. If I'm on the street, I'm on the street and want it on unless I'm, well, driving like I'm on the track.
So, with that said, I have no way to put it in the intermediate CDM, but TC definitely turns off and on from the steering wheel and the button in the glove box.
I can't imagine someone understanding this situation fully and still deciding to either cut the factory dash and put another screen below the OEM one or put the OEM one in the trunk JUST to tell what their fuel economy is or to get the intermediate intervention of CDM. Were these decisions really made understanding this?
Either way, I wanted to be a voice out here for all others who might feel like I do about it all and would like to know what actually happens when you simply swap it out straightforward like you would any other car.
I assure you all that what I have said here is reliable.
As a side note, I kept the OEM unit until I was sure that I wasn't missing something here. I'm not. So I sold it on eBay last week. Also, as you see in the pics below, the dash kit is a different color than the rest of the dash. It really shows up in the pics, but it actually looks good in person. I intended to have it professionally paint-matched. It looks good as it is though.
Also, as you see in the pics, I just have the subs in a box in the back. Again, that's because I wanted to see if it would all work. I'll likely soon be having a fiberglass enclosure put into the wheel well. I have to figure out if the space in the trunk while I'm on the street is worth the weight when out on the track.
Let me know if I can answer any questions for you guys. I intend this to be a factual basis for you guys and future V guys to make decisions on your car stereo. I got bad info. I'm glad I went with my gut and did it anyway.
This pic is to show the Bluetooth mic. It's so nice to have full iPhone integration via BT in the car.
#2
Where did you get the radio trim panel from...and did you mount the Sony HU that deep on purpose or is that how it mounts w/ the trim panel?
Great job!!
EDIT: Nevermind, found the bezel on crutchfield...but if you can answer the other part Id appreciate it about the mounting depth of the HU.
Great job!!
EDIT: Nevermind, found the bezel on crutchfield...but if you can answer the other part Id appreciate it about the mounting depth of the HU.
Last edited by RRsV; 06-21-2011 at 01:29 PM.
#4
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It's that deep because that's how it mounts in that panel, but it's DEFINITELY how I'd want it. It keeps the sun from hitting it straight on a lot, which takes away 95% of visibility and has been a big issue in past installations for me. It's very visible at all times of the day from every seat.
#5
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Push TC button on the wheel. Hold it down 3 sec for everything to be off. I guess that's how it'd still work. Put it this way. If I push that button, I can slide all around in figure 8s and smoke my tires off. I can drift through bends in the road. There's no intervention.
#6
Interesting.. So basically 3 of the 4 "driving mode" options remain intact.
TC on + Stabilitrack on
TC off + Stabilitrack on
TC off + Stabilitrack off
IIRC Competitive Mode was TC and Stabilitrack both ON but with significantly reduced effect.
TC on + Stabilitrack on
TC off + Stabilitrack on
TC off + Stabilitrack off
IIRC Competitive Mode was TC and Stabilitrack both ON but with significantly reduced effect.
#7
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Seems to be the case. As I said, I did it all with a risk understood. I track this car, and I'm a finicky about a lot of stuff. (Like I have to find a way to speed up our steering...). I'm happy with the way it is now. I can do anything and everything that I want with the car. If I wouldn't have been able to turn it all off, I'd have been upset. I don't care too much about intermediate interference. I just need "Save my ***" and "Let me die".
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#10
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#13
This whole thread makes me want to put a Dell Streak 7 in the dash instead of the head unit...
Then buy the OBDII Bluetooth module and put Torque on the tablet for a huge gauge cluster and all the entertainment you could want.
Then buy the OBDII Bluetooth module and put Torque on the tablet for a huge gauge cluster and all the entertainment you could want.
#14
And btw -
http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-GM1586.../dp/B000Z4COUK
There's the kit... and it's dirt cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-GM1586.../dp/B000Z4COUK
There's the kit... and it's dirt cheap.
#15
Nice job & right up. I might just follow in your foot steps when I get to this point in my on going build. I had rote off trying this & was just going to install a decent head unit in the arm rest & use the stock head unit for Navi.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#16
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Wow that looks good short all the dead space around th eunit. Looks like you could just put in a MUCH larger touch screen... But hell if i know anything about it.
Either that or use that space for switch or gauge gear if your nitroused or turboed... digital boost gauge and AF might fit there.
Either that or use that space for switch or gauge gear if your nitroused or turboed... digital boost gauge and AF might fit there.
#17
Have you tested the stability system cancelled? Because from what I have heard it wont be able to be cancelled. for ex. I read a thread where the dealer accidentally screwed something up with the stock head unit, something about letting it know it was in a V, and the stability system could not be turned off. The car must have the stock head unit for the stability system to be disabled in any way.
This is just what I have read somewhere, so I would be curious to see if you are able to actually change anything on the stability system as it is.
This is just what I have read somewhere, so I would be curious to see if you are able to actually change anything on the stability system as it is.
#18
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Very nice.
If you press the TC button twice within a couple seconds what makes you think you're NOT in competitive driving mode? Just because you no longer see the message on the oem nav screen or does the tc light go off after a quick 2nd press?
I've read a lot of these threads on both forums about replacing the oem nav unit and I don't remember anyone saying it would cause all kinds of problems or cause random door chimes and MILs in the dash. In fact, all I remember is that people indicated that it COULD prevent CDM and you would lose all the info messages that the oem unit displays like AC problems, security/starting problems, ice warnings, traction control engaged warning, stability control engaged warning, door ajar warnings, trunk ajar, oil change warning, temp warnings, coolant warning...etc (and of course all the info stuff like mpg, trip...). Those types of things might not matter to a lot of people but others would like to keep that functionality (hence the idea to move to trunk or move it down in the dash).
If you press the TC button twice within a couple seconds what makes you think you're NOT in competitive driving mode? Just because you no longer see the message on the oem nav screen or does the tc light go off after a quick 2nd press?
I've read a lot of these threads on both forums about replacing the oem nav unit and I don't remember anyone saying it would cause all kinds of problems or cause random door chimes and MILs in the dash. In fact, all I remember is that people indicated that it COULD prevent CDM and you would lose all the info messages that the oem unit displays like AC problems, security/starting problems, ice warnings, traction control engaged warning, stability control engaged warning, door ajar warnings, trunk ajar, oil change warning, temp warnings, coolant warning...etc (and of course all the info stuff like mpg, trip...). Those types of things might not matter to a lot of people but others would like to keep that functionality (hence the idea to move to trunk or move it down in the dash).
#19
Looks good, i just ordered the base CTS DIC with cd player and i'll be gutting the cd player and installing a double din, this way i can keep all of my settings, messages, TC stability etc. etc.
#20
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I see that in the pics, as I do that it looks like there's so much dead space around it. I'll go back out and take a pic from the backseat so you can see the whole thing in perspective. I think it looks good.