wes8398

iTrader: (2)

For those of you that have installed these things, I have a few questions. dumI installed my passenger side arm the other night (ran out of time to do the other side) and I had a few issues. One was that I could just barely get the cradle to drop enough to get that mile long bolt out. I started with just the forward cradle mounting bolts undone (both sides) like Adam's how-to said, but I wound up having to drop the rear cradle mount bolts too, AND I had to pry like hell with a crow bar whilst trying to work the bolt out with my free hand. dumIt wasn't much fun, especially putting the new arm back in with only 1 hand.dum
I was worried about damaging things from pulling the cradle down so much, but since others have been problem free in that respect, I just reefed as much as necessary. dumI kept an eye on a brake line that I could see, but otherwise I didn't know of anything else to watch for.dum

My other issue was with the clearancing of the strut mount. I had to grind off significantly more than the 1 or 2 millimeters that Adam suggested in his how-to post, and I think the arm is still making contact with this area. Anyone else encounter this?
strut mount

New extra clearance

Other end

Fuzzy_Wuzzy

iTrader: (8)

I found when i installed my BMR trailing arms, that the cradle was hitting the exhaust, once i took that down, it made it where the cradle could come down further.

That area you clearanced should have no effect on strength really, taking a corner off like that should be fine

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

It's still touching though, and I'm not sure if it needs space or if it's fine as it is. I dont want it knocking when I go over bumps, etc, ya know? I also don't want any of that binding against any movement of the arm either. What'd'ya think?

Fuzzy_Wuzzy

iTrader: (8)

If it is still touching that is a problem, i would take some more off to make it clear, just be careful to take off what is needed to make it clear

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

Does the gap between these parts change as the suspension moves, or is is it petty much static? When it was still on jackstands, there was like a half millimeter of space. I feel like maybe there should have been more...?

VeryWhiteDevil

iTrader: (9)

I took off more than enough. I would not leave it with that tight of a clearance.

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

Yah, it's definitely clunking/rattling a bit when going over bumpy/cracked roads, so it needs more clearancing. Certainly not the 1-2mm that Adam had suggested to remove in his 'how-to' article. Maybe I'll try a grinding disk rather than the cutting disk this time...that'll take a quick bite out of it. haha

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

Got em done today boys, thanks for the tips. I didn't wind up disconnecting the sway bar links, but the driver's side was definitely easier. I totally removed the front cradle bolts, and loosened the rear cradle bolts to their last few threads. I still had to pry the cradle down with a crow bar, but it was easier this time for some reason.
A CAUTIONARY WORD: MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THR BRAKE LINE BRACKET IN THE PASSENGER SIDE WHEEL WELL BEFORE YOU START PRYING/PULLING THE CRADLE DOWN. I noticed the lines getting a little tight without this bracket removed from the wheel well.

Anyway, all went well. I shaved some more material off of the passenger side shock mount, did the same to the driver's side, and also had to grind a flat spot into the front cradle mounting bolt washers to keep them off the arms.

After this and the soon-to-be-known 'edmod' (3/8 rubber homemade 'washer' under rear spring perches to boost up the 'too low' H&R's), everything is awesome! No more 'reverse rake', no more fender rubbing on tires, no more wheels rubbing on trailing arms, and no more crappy feeling cut OEM springs.