sub replacement and amp Simple Version
07-28-2011, 04:29 PM
#1
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sub replacement and amp Simple Version i hate wires so after spending countless hours reading i have decided to make a simple version for people like me. ill post pictures of how and where to tie in power wire for the amp and i have already fit a memphis 10" 2 voice coil sub in stock location. ill post picts as soon as i am done. i will be doing to work tomorrow morning so hopefully tomorrow night ill have pics up.... and saythaks to Heavymetals for being the only one to clairify which wires to tap into.
step 1 take out the saets and pull the carpet back a little to expose 2 fuse boxes (as seen in the first pic) and in between the 2 fuseboxes is a harness that has 2 thicker gauge wires bout a 10 gauge. they are red with a black stripe. (second pic)
step 2 cut them both or one which ever you choose i used both and splice your power wire in to them. i had to add 2 or so inches to each of the wire ends (4) and purchased a big wire nut and did it that way wires are short not easy to splice a bunch of wires together.
how you get your ground is up to you i have always used seat bolts close and normally easy access. and your remote turn on is up to you.
if this was not enough then take it to a shop i just did not wat holes drilled in my fire wall and saved some weight lol bout 10ft of 6 gauge wire lol.. have fun i hope this helps guys oh and if your ne sub is in the stock hole USE DYNOMAT or some sound proofing tape ect.just rattles a little.... anyways good luck and thanks again to heavymetals for telling me the wires!!!
step 1 take out the saets and pull the carpet back a little to expose 2 fuse boxes (as seen in the first pic) and in between the 2 fuseboxes is a harness that has 2 thicker gauge wires bout a 10 gauge. they are red with a black stripe. (second pic)
step 2 cut them both or one which ever you choose i used both and splice your power wire in to them. i had to add 2 or so inches to each of the wire ends (4) and purchased a big wire nut and did it that way wires are short not easy to splice a bunch of wires together.
how you get your ground is up to you i have always used seat bolts close and normally easy access. and your remote turn on is up to you.
if this was not enough then take it to a shop i just did not wat holes drilled in my fire wall and saved some weight lol bout 10ft of 6 gauge wire lol.. have fun i hope this helps guys oh and if your ne sub is in the stock hole USE DYNOMAT or some sound proofing tape ect.just rattles a little.... anyways good luck and thanks again to heavymetals for telling me the wires!!!
Last edited by rbsurfer; 07-29-2011 at 06:02 PM.
07-29-2011, 01:50 PM
#4
I'm installing an amp this weekend too. However, I also hate wires so I'm just running a line off the battery like everyone else. Maybe a little more work, but if I ever upgrade the amp to something with a little more juice I'll still have the wire capacity.
07-29-2011, 06:14 PM
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for some reason the pics wont work right now ill be back later to see what i can do or pm me ill give you my email if you need to see that bad but you cant miss the to bigger red wires
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.....I've been checking in on this one HOPING that the OP has posted pics.
07-31-2011, 03:41 PM
#12
I'd like to have a FSM and take a look at the oem wiring schematics, some day!
Power and ground is usually the easy part on the amps, but it's the input signals that can be a PITA (hate cutting into oem harnesses and forget scotch-loks) without buying something that plugs into the harnesses and gives you RCA, etc...Sure, you can use a line converter though (did this in my Jeep and worked fine).
However, one of the most difficult things to find on some of these new radios (not sure about the V, speaking from my WK system) is a 'signal on', when you're using an older amp that does not take it from the input signal...So, curious how you hooked that up, or do you have a newer amp that does not need a dedicated 12V signal (usually taken from power antenna on radio, for instance).
Reason why it was so difficult on the WK, is the speakers used +6V instead of 12, which was odd and any 12V leads on the harness were constant (always on)...so, what I ended up having to do was run a 12V constant lead tied to a switch. I do not like my amp on all the time, unless the stereo is on, fwiw...
I had experimented with the idea of using a relay off the 6V and tied to a 12V 'out', although forgot the details of what sort of relay you need for that, etc...This may not (and hope is not) be an issue on our V's though...
Power and ground is usually the easy part on the amps, but it's the input signals that can be a PITA (hate cutting into oem harnesses and forget scotch-loks) without buying something that plugs into the harnesses and gives you RCA, etc...Sure, you can use a line converter though (did this in my Jeep and worked fine).
However, one of the most difficult things to find on some of these new radios (not sure about the V, speaking from my WK system) is a 'signal on', when you're using an older amp that does not take it from the input signal...So, curious how you hooked that up, or do you have a newer amp that does not need a dedicated 12V signal (usually taken from power antenna on radio, for instance).
Reason why it was so difficult on the WK, is the speakers used +6V instead of 12, which was odd and any 12V leads on the harness were constant (always on)...so, what I ended up having to do was run a 12V constant lead tied to a switch. I do not like my amp on all the time, unless the stereo is on, fwiw...
I had experimented with the idea of using a relay off the 6V and tied to a 12V 'out', although forgot the details of what sort of relay you need for that, etc...This may not (and hope is not) be an issue on our V's though...
07-31-2011, 04:40 PM
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For some reason, I can't attach pics here from my iPod. Anyways, sam's directions were perfect. On the rear floorboard are two fuse blocks. Between these two blocks is a spiral of wires. There are two 10 gauge red wires with black stripes. These are constant power wires.
I disconnected my negative battery cable first. Then I wired in some 10 gauge wire with an in line 30 amp fuse. I normally run 4 gauge but my amp will be fine with 10. I did not cut the red power wire but only trimmed some of the plastic back. Then I attached my power wire and taped up.
Instal negative battery cable, pop in line fuse in, you have power.
JNR, I have a fairly nice alpine amp that requires a remote signal to turn on. I just ran a remote wire in to the fuse block. I also wired the speaker wires directly in to the old sub wires. Just put spades on the ends of mine and plugged right in, no cutting.
My sub hits freaking HARD. I'm guessing that people who say theirs is only marginally better than stock have the wrong amp or sub. I have a 500 watt amp and (iirc) a 2ohm sub bridged.
I disconnected my negative battery cable first. Then I wired in some 10 gauge wire with an in line 30 amp fuse. I normally run 4 gauge but my amp will be fine with 10. I did not cut the red power wire but only trimmed some of the plastic back. Then I attached my power wire and taped up.
Instal negative battery cable, pop in line fuse in, you have power.
JNR, I have a fairly nice alpine amp that requires a remote signal to turn on. I just ran a remote wire in to the fuse block. I also wired the speaker wires directly in to the old sub wires. Just put spades on the ends of mine and plugged right in, no cutting.
My sub hits freaking HARD. I'm guessing that people who say theirs is only marginally better than stock have the wrong amp or sub. I have a 500 watt amp and (iirc) a 2ohm sub bridged.
07-31-2011, 04:43 PM
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Oh, and my bass does not cut off no matter how loud I have it. I know some guys have said the Bose system will knock it down. Again, I'm guessing this has more to do with each persons amp than the Bose
07-31-2011, 05:21 PM
#15
Cool, gald you got it to work pretty easily then and sounds like it works good.
So, when you say you plugged the remote on into the fuse box, is that an "ignition" source 12V, so it goes on everytime you turn on the car? I suppose that works (how I ended up doing it my Jeep, but with a switch inline, so if I wanted to turn it off manually). I personally don't like the amp on all the time, if it doesn't need to be, but suppose it wouldn't hurt too much.
Yeah, my amp is pretty old (Punch 150) but works really well. Even turned way down, it bumped the sub hard in my jeep and man, I sure miss that extra dynamic in the music. Our Bose systems aren't that great (imo) for sound, but hopefully some real speakers will help and adding a better sub, too...don't need a boombox, but something that just sounded good and could go loud (but clean across most all hz) would be nice.
So, when you say you plugged the remote on into the fuse box, is that an "ignition" source 12V, so it goes on everytime you turn on the car? I suppose that works (how I ended up doing it my Jeep, but with a switch inline, so if I wanted to turn it off manually). I personally don't like the amp on all the time, if it doesn't need to be, but suppose it wouldn't hurt too much.
Yeah, my amp is pretty old (Punch 150) but works really well. Even turned way down, it bumped the sub hard in my jeep and man, I sure miss that extra dynamic in the music. Our Bose systems aren't that great (imo) for sound, but hopefully some real speakers will help and adding a better sub, too...don't need a boombox, but something that just sounded good and could go loud (but clean across most all hz) would be nice.
07-31-2011, 06:48 PM
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Yes, the remote wire I put a connector on it and plugged it in to an open spot. It is a power on with the key on. It is not a spot with RAP power though. Somebody posted a location for that (ccp fuse?) so I will mess with that later
08-02-2011, 01:38 PM
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thanks derek and for signal wires i had a LOC sittin in my garage and wired it to the bose sub connectors and rca to the amp very simple.. and my sub hits hard too but it will rattle after hitting hard for a day or so.
08-02-2011, 09:03 PM
#20
I tapped into a fuse in the fuse block under the back seat for my amp turn on.
I think I tapped into the windshield wiper fuse.
Go out and get a Fuse tapper. Easy to use.
Here my power wire.
I ran 4 gauge.
I think I tapped into the windshield wiper fuse.
Go out and get a Fuse tapper. Easy to use.
Here my power wire.
I ran 4 gauge.
Last edited by Stone17; 08-02-2011 at 09:13 PM.
