wcryan

iTrader: (2)

Headers are installed. But I have a couple leaks. One is where the resonators connect to the stock exhaust. Were just gonna weld those. My installer said he's gonna run them through heat cycles and then re-tighten to try and get rid of the leaks

Did this work for anyone. Or did anyone have a similar problem

And if so what did u do to fix it? We all know header leaks sound like **** so all help would be appreciated

DMM

I have both cat. converters and the straight connectors on two different exhaust systems (stock and Magnaflow) and they both required welding. Funny thing is that all the Magnaflow joints are connected with the same clamps and none of them have ever leaked.

Go ahead and get it out of the way, get them welded now.

jenks40

iTrader: (3)

Speaking from a leaking header on a bike... yes, I have ran a few times, loosened everything holding the entire system, wiggled, tightened the leaking area FIRST, and had success. However, I don't believe heat cycles had anything to do with my success. It was late, I was lazy, and I didn't feel like tearing it apart so I did it after a few days and a few rides.

liqidvenom

iTrader: (2)

where do you have leaks aside from that connection?

also how does it connect to the stock exhaust?

wcryan

iTrader: (2)

The resonators slip over the stock exhaust that you have to cut a little. The welding should fix that leak but I'm wondering if there is another way to fix the ones by where the headers mount to the engine without having to put new gaskets in

DMM

The header gaskets are not too bad, the drivers side is real easy. You want to remove the battery and the plastic base and HVAC filter housing cover on the passenger side...takes a little time but makes everything sooo much more accessible.

Once the plugs are out, take out all the bolts except for the first and last. Trim the header gasket with snips and let it fall down and hang onto the bolts holding the header on the head. The stock manifold gaskets work just fine and are not too terribly difficult, about two or three hours to replace them.

A 7/16" or 12mm ratchet wrench will be your friend.

SoCA04V

Might look into the ARP header studs if you're going to go through the work of taking it back apart. I hear it makes everything much easier, and less likely to leak.

wcryan

iTrader: (2)

Any recommendations on a better gasket?

SoCA04V

I have read the OEM LS1 gaskets are the way to go. Did you use the ones included in the OBX kit?

wcryan

iTrader: (2)

Yeah. I didn't hear anyone having problems with them so I said **** it

LS2duc

iTrader: (1)

My installer didn't like the looks of the OBX, bought a new set of GM LS replacements. Resonators are welded up to the stock exhaust. No problems so far at 3 mos 3K miles.

wcryan

iTrader: (2)

Ok. Sounds good. Looks like I'm just looking at a gasket leak.no leak from resonators. I'll grab some OEM gaskets

LS2duc

iTrader: (1)

I wanna say fairly cheap, too. Maybe $40 for the pair?

liqidvenom

iTrader: (2)

do you know how long it took a pro to install headers?

wcryan

iTrader: (2)

it took my installer a little bit because of issues we ran into. Not exacly sure how long it took

LS2duc

iTrader: (1)

About three hours with lift...

dr.duct_mossburg

iTrader: (1)

Do they throw a CEL? I was looking at a set with what looks to be no cats?

http://www.eracingzone.com/ProductDe...de=OBXHeader29

LS2duc

iTrader: (1)

Exact same set I have. No cats, just look like 'em. No codes, tuner vanished those. I believe he shut the rear O2 sensors off.