Picked up 15whp from cam??
08-19-2011, 08:43 PM
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Picked up 15whp from cam?? just picked up my car today form the shop. had a cam installed (228/228 .588/.588 113+2) and the car picked up 15whp after the install. is that wierd or normal???? tuner said it dynoed baseline 370whp with headers,cold air intake, and previous tune. Do I need to do a bigger cam to get more power out of it? The car DOES feel like it picks up faster, i can deffinetly feel a difference.
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[/IMG] Last edited by plastus85; 08-24-2011 at 01:30 PM. Reason: charts
08-19-2011, 08:51 PM
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Do you have a before/after dyno chart to compare? Your peak may not have increased as much as you were expecting but you could have added a lot of area under the curve, which is important.
Did you talk to the shop about expectations before the work? What was the plan?
Did you talk to the shop about expectations before the work? What was the plan?
hahaha jk
08-19-2011, 11:54 PM
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but i dont want to do heads... not going to... so you guys saying this cam needs a pair of heads to make more power? we were thinking it should of been Right around 400...
like i said the car does feel stronger, im gonna contact my buddy with a 300c srt-8 so maybe we could do a little run for comparison....
like i said the car does feel stronger, im gonna contact my buddy with a 300c srt-8 so maybe we could do a little run for comparison....
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08-20-2011, 11:48 AM
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car dynoed 370 right before the cam install, and 385 after on the same dyno.. should i just not worry about the #s, and go off of the way the car moves now?
08-20-2011, 04:17 PM
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How was the cam installed (degree'd)? That can make a difference...
I don't know what the oem cam specs are (dur @ .050 & lift, etc.) so not sure where that cam rates, but looks a little mild. And as others have said, to get the most out of a cam, you need to match it to the heads, even though it'll still "work" fine w/o them...
Really also depends on the 'tune' that was done to it, also, to maximize the hp/tq, etc...IMO, 15 whp does seem a little low and especially since you have supporting mods, but we also don't know the condition of the engine and its maintenance...For instance, fresh plugs, wires, filters and so on? A lot of miles on it (carbon build-up)? etc...Many times, it seems people forget about the 'details' and those make or break an otherwise good set-up...Just go thru and check the obvious (sounds silly, but could even be your intake tube is not fastened down all the way); not saying that's the case, but doesn't hurt to eliminate.
I don't know what the oem cam specs are (dur @ .050 & lift, etc.) so not sure where that cam rates, but looks a little mild. And as others have said, to get the most out of a cam, you need to match it to the heads, even though it'll still "work" fine w/o them...
Really also depends on the 'tune' that was done to it, also, to maximize the hp/tq, etc...IMO, 15 whp does seem a little low and especially since you have supporting mods, but we also don't know the condition of the engine and its maintenance...For instance, fresh plugs, wires, filters and so on? A lot of miles on it (carbon build-up)? etc...Many times, it seems people forget about the 'details' and those make or break an otherwise good set-up...Just go thru and check the obvious (sounds silly, but could even be your intake tube is not fastened down all the way); not saying that's the case, but doesn't hurt to eliminate.
08-20-2011, 09:25 PM
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I will post up dyno sheets my thing is that the car was dynoed 2 days in a row and yes fresh plugs and wires. So the cam might of been degreed wrong??
08-21-2011, 01:39 PM
#16
I don't know if it was degree'd wrong or not and just something to eliminate as a possibility and something that should be always done on a cam installation IMO. There are tolerances in every engine and mass produced item like a cam, so it's one way to be sure everything is lining up as it should and some cams are designed to be installed one way or the other (you can find this info on the specs or "cam card" they give you)
Verify with the shop first (ask them how they did it, retarded, advanced or 'straight up' and what the exact amount was (like 4 deg advanced)) and/or if they degree'd it with a wheel and measurements (doubt it)...Depends on the cam and its specifications onm where it "should be", but like I said every engine (even within the same type) is just a little different. Does it "have to be done"...perhaps not, but if you want to ensure it's 100% up to par, it's time well spent.
Anyway, here is a good reference on degreeing a cam...there is a lot of info out there if you want to do a search on google for your own info.
Unless it's installed off kilter from the spec card, it probably won't affect it a whole lot, but if it were put in a few degrees retarded (let's say) it will affect the performance. IIRC, sometimes people put them in a couple/few degrees advanced for a little more power, but remember in an engine, everything needs to work together at a given point (time), so this can also affect your engine timing (initial, total, etc.) too, so that needs to be compensated if that were the case (say you put it in advanced on purpose). Anyway, I'm not an expert on the subject, but those are the basics and mention this stuff just so you can double check if it were installed right, per the cam manufacturer's recommendation and to be 100% that it's checked for tolerance and how it goes with your particular engine...
Verify with the shop first (ask them how they did it, retarded, advanced or 'straight up' and what the exact amount was (like 4 deg advanced)) and/or if they degree'd it with a wheel and measurements (doubt it)...Depends on the cam and its specifications onm where it "should be", but like I said every engine (even within the same type) is just a little different. Does it "have to be done"...perhaps not, but if you want to ensure it's 100% up to par, it's time well spent.
Anyway, here is a good reference on degreeing a cam...there is a lot of info out there if you want to do a search on google for your own info.
Unless it's installed off kilter from the spec card, it probably won't affect it a whole lot, but if it were put in a few degrees retarded (let's say) it will affect the performance. IIRC, sometimes people put them in a couple/few degrees advanced for a little more power, but remember in an engine, everything needs to work together at a given point (time), so this can also affect your engine timing (initial, total, etc.) too, so that needs to be compensated if that were the case (say you put it in advanced on purpose). Anyway, I'm not an expert on the subject, but those are the basics and mention this stuff just so you can double check if it were installed right, per the cam manufacturer's recommendation and to be 100% that it's checked for tolerance and how it goes with your particular engine...
