NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

Just installed a new clutch and lightweight flywheel with LS7 slave. Everything feels great but it's grabbing a little too close to the floor (maybe 3" from it). I don't like having to clutch to the floor for every shift. Is there any way I can adjust the grab point a little higher pedal wise??

liqidvenom

iTrader: (2)

i might be wrong but you would need a spacer of some sort to change that.

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

A spacer on the slave? I know the spacer would have been needed with the stock slave but the ls7 slave was a little longer and required no spacer. I figure there has to be a way to adjust it somehow. Just hoping someone else can give me a clue as to how I would go about doing it...

liqidvenom

iTrader: (2)

well ive read thats normally how the clutch pick up point can be moved further.

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

You need an adjustable clutch master cylinder.

liqidvenom

iTrader: (2)

those of us who went through with the Spec shambles must have missed the link to buy one of those.

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

Give it 500 miles and the pedal will come up

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

I hear ya liquid. The clutch is working fine. I'm sure the spacer idea would work but that would be a bitch to have to guess what size spacer to use and go through the hassle of taking the trans and stuff back out.

Itsslow98... How much is one of those and where can I get one? It doesn't involve having to pull the trans again does it?

I was told that sometimes the clutch will start out close to the floor when brand new and once it gets broken in, it will return to the normal spot but I'm doubting it will move that much. I'm hoping this adjustable master idea will be the fix!

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

I havent even looked at the master on the V but when I did the mustang it came with a mcleod adjustable master which allowed me to make the clutch pedal engage and disengage the clutch wherever i wanted. Like punishment said I would wait for a little bit and once its broken in see where it is.

Adjustbale masters are like 300-500 bucks and tick is supposed to be one of the best.

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

Punishment must have posted while I was typing. Lol that's what I was told. I've put about 100 miles on it since it was installed but 80+ of that was on the highway in 6th coming back to friendswood from Beaumont after finishing installing the stuff on the car. I'll wait and drive it for awhile before I do anything. Hopefully it will come up to normal position and I won't need an adjustable master.

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the help btw fellas!

If anyone else has experience with this and has another solution... Please post up. For now I'll just keep driving it and see how it works out.

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

I have the same setup and slave..it started out low but came up just fine..if u have a remote bleeder or q buddy id flush the line out with some motul RBF600..best stuff money can buy

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

I'll def try that! Just running the basic dot 3 at the moment. Thanks for the help bro

garrettg

iTrader: (1)

If you don't mind me asking did you go with the lightweight ram alum flywheel from sdparts? If so how is day to day drive-ability with the lighter flywheel? I am looking at a ls7 clutch kit and debating on which flywheel to get and if its worth the extra 100 bucks also if its going to require a tune. My car is stock currently.

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

No, I ran the competition stage 4 kit that came with the big clutch and light flywheel as a package. Didn't hear much feedback about the kit prior to install but figured I'd give it a shot since I got a great deal on it. So far so good. Still feels close to stock but I can tell it grabs better. With about 800 miles on it now, the pedal has come up to the normal spot so its all turned out good.

07CTS-V

iTrader: (6)

Just an FYI for anyone that reads this. The Motul is good stuff, but I've found that it tended to injest the clutch disc powder through the seals in my clutch at a pretty good rate (although it lasted twice as long as regular brake fluid). I have since switched to Castrol SRF and my flushing interval went from 4 weeks with the RBF600 to 9 weeks with the SRF. I would say the Castrol SRF is the best stuff money can buy. It's also $65 per liter as opposed to $32 per liter for the Motul

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

i stunt ride streetbikes and beat on my brakes like no other...i have never boiled over once since switching to the motul 4+ years ago.. i can see how the weird clutch slaves we have suck up the dust but any fluid is gonna do that and i havent had any problems with mine..ive got 10k on my clutch now and the fluid is just starting to turn brown. havent bled it since the install. either way im sure the castrol is good stuff

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

glad to hear

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

This guy has shims.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...der-shims.html

lubelizard

iTrader: (5)

I noticed the same thing when using the Motul in my braking system. I HAD to flush before each OT event, or the pedal would get spongy and the fluid would turn gray. I'm a novice OT driver, and definitely not hard on the brakes.

I started using Amsoil 600 brake fluid, and it appears to retain a cleaner appearance longer than the Motul, it's wet and dry boiling points are just about the same, and it's cheaper for me to get it.