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Short shifter mod- DIY question

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Old 12-21-2011, 06:32 PM   #1
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Default Short shifter mod- DIY question

So, since my trans is out for a clutch swap, I am thinking about modifying the shifter while it is out. I want to clarify something before I start grinding and cutting. When looking at the pic below, I grind the weld off at "A", to separate the pieces, cut about a half inch off the bottom of "A", put it back in and weld it back together. Then, down at "C", I just drill it, put a rolled pin in it to help solidify the bottom "bell" piece with the rubber in between, right?

I understand the part about welding the pipe looking sleeve on the bottom, and moving the bushing down there.

Really regretting not ordering the UUC bushings from Lindsay... They carry the 2 that are on the "rails" plus one for the base of the shifter itself? Tried to call them today but didn't get through. Anyone know off the top of their head how much they are? Waiting on ARP flywheel bolts from Summit, so thinking I should make sure I have all the things I need, plus the "while you're there"'s too...
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Short shifter mod- DIY question-dsc02582.jpg  
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Last edited by Squid4life; 12-21-2011 at 09:10 PM..
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Old 12-21-2011, 08:42 PM   #2
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Don't see any pics
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:10 PM   #3
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Sorry, failed to attach the first time...
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:18 PM   #4
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I think Creative Steel was going to start making the bushings also, worth a shot.
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:23 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMM View Post
I think Creative Steel was going to start making the bushings also, worth a shot.
Yeah, I see these:

https://creative-steel.com/store/ind...ct_detail&p=37

Thanks for the info. Still learning who makes what for this car.


I could also use the ones that ride on the side rails deals, not just the base of the shifter itself. I think these from CS are only for the shifter base... I should have just bought them all ahead of time...
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:58 PM   #6
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Anyone know for sure if the creative steel bushing is for the base of the shifter or are they the same bushings lindsay has been selling for quite some time..front to back I have no slop..side to side though I have at least 2 inches of play...really wanna get rid of that
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Old 01-04-2012, 06:59 PM   #7
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Would it be easier to just cut the top and grind in a new notch ?
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Old 01-04-2012, 08:28 PM   #8
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there is a thread on here which gives all the DIY details.. cant remember who did it now tho.. search

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmargo View Post
Would it be easier to just cut the top and grind in a new notch ?
no you have to increase the length between the connection of the linkage and the pivot point, which is the white ball on the stalk, lowering the **** will just increase the force you need to use to shift gears
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Old 01-04-2012, 10:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadyLS6 View Post
there is a thread on here which gives all the DIY details.. cant remember who did it now tho.. search



no you have to increase the length between the connection of the linkage and the pivot point, which is the white ball on the stalk, lowering the **** will just increase the force you need to use to shift gears
I'll see if I can find it.

Thanks
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:02 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikon View Post
Anyone know for sure if the creative steel bushing is for the base of the shifter or are they the same bushings lindsay has been selling for quite some time..front to back I have no slop..side to side though I have at least 2 inches of play...really wanna get rid of that
Same as the UUC bushings from Lindsay. I have the CS versions. They won't take care of the side to side play, I was hoping mine would go away too.
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Old 01-05-2012, 06:45 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadyLS6 View Post
no you have to increase the length between the connection of the linkage and the pivot point, which is the white ball on the stalk, lowering the **** will just increase the force you need to use to shift gears
Both will increase the force you need to use to shift, as well as lessening the distance you move the ****.

The main difference will be whether the **** is at the stock height or not, and how much you shorten the shift by. Adding an inch to the distance the linkage sits at in relation to the pivot point will shorten it a lot more than removing an inch from the **** height.

Also shortening the stalk won't cause any potential interference issues with the driveshaft.

And to the OP, I am fairly certain the UUC bushings are just for the rails, not for the base of the shifter.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:11 AM   #12
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We need someone to make the bushings for the base of the shifters.
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:55 AM   #13
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Quote:
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We need someone to make the bushings for the base of the shifters.
The spherical delrin bushings? or the bushings that the linkage bolt passes through?
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:58 AM   #14
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The spherical delrin bushings? or the bushings that the linkage bolt passes through?
The white nylon ones that the bolt passes through. Those seem to have a good amount of play on my shifter.
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Old 01-06-2012, 12:13 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STAGEUP View Post
We need someone to make the bushings for the base of the shifters.
There was a guy in the other shifter thread that can get delrin bushings.
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Old 01-06-2012, 12:19 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadyLS6 View Post
there is a thread on here which gives all the DIY details.. cant remember who did it now tho.. search



no you have to increase the length between the connection of the linkage and the pivot point, which is the white ball on the stalk, lowering the **** will just increase the force you need to use to shift gears
Maybe I worded it wrong. When people add/extend the lower attach point along with grinding away the stalk to remove the length what is advantage of separating the stalk over taking it off the top ?
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:38 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmargo View Post
Maybe I worded it wrong. When people add/extend the lower attach point along with grinding away the stalk to remove the length what is advantage of separating the stalk over taking it off the top ?
I think they're messing with the crappy rubber that sits between the two pieces to give a more positive feel...I'm sure someone else can confirm that.
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Old 01-06-2012, 09:10 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmargo View Post
Maybe I worded it wrong. When people add/extend the lower attach point along with grinding away the stalk to remove the length what is advantage of separating the stalk over taking it off the top ?
Main reason I ground the welds to separate the two pieces is that I didn't want to try to mess with making that notch. My luck I'd screw it up somehow and have a loose shifter ****. I ground the welds, cut a 1/2" off the bottom of the part marked "A", welded it back together. I also drilled a hole at location "C" and put a rolled pin through it. I think this did the most tightening as it got rid of most of the flex of the rubber between the two pieces on shifter. (down at C, there is an internal piece and external piece separated by about 1/4" rubber all around.) I welded a bushing sleeve on the bottom of the shifter and moved the stock bushings down there. I wish I would have had time to put aftermarket bushings on the rail, but just these mods alone made a HUGE difference in how the shifter feels. Shorter shift, shorter top of shifter, much tighter, etc. With the slop of the rubber mostly gone, the shifter feels more "mechanical". I originally thought all my bushing were crap making it sloppy, but it ended up just being the design of the shifter as I didn't replace anything.
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85 GN TE-44, 60's, 204/214 cam, 3" THDP, Neal Chance 3,000 converter, ALRADCO Radiator.

NEW Purchase: 25.5 87 GN, Stage II Twin Turbo.
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Old 01-06-2012, 12:46 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Squid4life View Post
Main reason I ground the welds to separate the two pieces is that I didn't want to try to mess with making that notch. My luck I'd screw it up somehow and have a loose shifter ****. I ground the welds, cut a 1/2" off the bottom of the part marked "A", welded it back together. I also drilled a hole at location "C" and put a rolled pin through it. I think this did the most tightening as it got rid of most of the flex of the rubber between the two pieces on shifter. (down at C, there is an internal piece and external piece separated by about 1/4" rubber all around.) I welded a bushing sleeve on the bottom of the shifter and moved the stock bushings down there. I wish I would have had time to put aftermarket bushings on the rail, but just these mods alone made a HUGE difference in how the shifter feels. Shorter shift, shorter top of shifter, much tighter, etc. With the slop of the rubber mostly gone, the shifter feels more "mechanical". I originally thought all my bushing were crap making it sloppy, but it ended up just being the design of the shifter as I didn't replace anything.

Thats cool. I guess it would not be an issue cutting from the top if I was going to thread the stalk anyway.

Thanks for the info
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Old 01-06-2012, 01:56 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STAGEUP View Post
We need someone to make the bushings for the base of the shifters.
I got a new set from PINUOFF. didnt take away the slop..

i think its the bushings at the Connection to the trans. and the shifter linkage..

an old thread.. NORM V rebuild or somthing like that he fabbed up some better bushings for the linkage but you ahve to drop the trans to install.. He used some blue spacers from home depot..
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