Cts V dropped a Valve!!!
03-21-2012, 04:09 PM
#42
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Piston/rod and an intake and exhaust valve went out today. Should be there in 2-3 days.
Just wanted to add that these are the hollow and sodium filled valves so they will be the same length as your valves. My old valves were in the process of being reground when we found the bent one so they are already cut. They just need to be lapped in to the new seats and you should be good to go. It was pretty rainy so I sprayed everything down with WD-40 and placed them in plastic bags. The valves are wrapped in the paper on top so don't drop them when you pull the paper out.
Just wanted to add that these are the hollow and sodium filled valves so they will be the same length as your valves. My old valves were in the process of being reground when we found the bent one so they are already cut. They just need to be lapped in to the new seats and you should be good to go. It was pretty rainy so I sprayed everything down with WD-40 and placed them in plastic bags. The valves are wrapped in the paper on top so don't drop them when you pull the paper out.
03-21-2012, 08:52 PM
#43
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Thanks for your help raven! I'm going to pull the engine in the next few days. Copied these instructions......
Sounds easy enough
The last motor I pulled was from my 71 bug, it had ALOT less things to unplug! I'll keep updating the thread with pics. (and questions too I'm sure)
Sounds easy enough
The last motor I pulled was from my 71 bug, it had ALOT less things to unplug! I'll keep updating the thread with pics. (and questions too I'm sure)
03-21-2012, 10:13 PM
#44
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Just remember to add a little masking tape with labels on anything you think you might forget!
To vac hoses, connectors, etc.
Good luck, and take it slow and easy, and hopefully you won't f anything up!
-meaty
To vac hoses, connectors, etc.
Good luck, and take it slow and easy, and hopefully you won't f anything up!
-meaty
03-22-2012, 04:45 PM
#45
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This is what makes a forum great, fellow members pulling together to help someone out.
Tight budget but need to upgrade when ya can I would:
Overhaul the engine using the parts that were sent to ya, fix/replace the castings and do "some work" to em while they are off, GMPP Hot Cam and spring kit(since you have to buy springs anyway) and throw 'er back together.
Tight budget but need to upgrade when ya can I would:
Overhaul the engine using the parts that were sent to ya, fix/replace the castings and do "some work" to em while they are off, GMPP Hot Cam and spring kit(since you have to buy springs anyway) and throw 'er back together.
03-22-2012, 05:31 PM
#47
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Fuel line
accelerator cable
ground
4 13mm bolts around bell housing
Rock & pull, pull & rock.
Back in '90-'91, I could drop the motor, tighten the gland nut, and back up all during lunch.
03-22-2012, 10:23 PM
#50
# of incidents vs # built is still a low # but no comfort if it happens to you.
Usually a standard practice on any modded motor is to at least change the springs.
LS6 did suffer from a bad production of springs, and that doesn't mean that the replacements are guaranteed not to fail either.
I say be thankful there are replacement parts that really improve reliability.
Usually a standard practice on any modded motor is to at least change the springs.
LS6 did suffer from a bad production of springs, and that doesn't mean that the replacements are guaranteed not to fail either.
I say be thankful there are replacement parts that really improve reliability.
03-26-2012, 11:49 AM
#51
Same thing happened to my V with previous owner, but was at 56k or 58k. GM replaced his motor with a GM crate engine after Hedrick called them. (flew down to NC to buy it and drove it back home - got every single paper ever done to the car and talked to the Service Mgr @ Hedrick just to make sure it was all legit)
Old engine did not have the yellow valves
There's a few pic in this writeup of the trans and bell housing bolts...maybe it'll help when you are pulling the trans.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...h-install.html
Old engine did not have the yellow valves
There's a few pic in this writeup of the trans and bell housing bolts...maybe it'll help when you are pulling the trans.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...h-install.html
03-26-2012, 11:58 AM
#52
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Are those valves the same as found in the C6 Z06's? My buddy at a speed shop said they won't even put one on a dyno unless the owner signs off that they may drop a valve due to the number of times they've seen issues with the valves.
For some reason those sodium filled valves tend to snap under full load.
For some reason those sodium filled valves tend to snap under full load.
03-27-2012, 09:06 PM
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Hopefully I'll have time to work on it Friday! Thanks for the thread on how to pull the trans. Sometimes it jumps out of first if you don't go to second before downshifting to first. I might as well fix that while it's out. Any clues where to start? Bent or worn shift fork?
03-28-2012, 09:27 AM
#56
Hopefully I'll have time to work on it Friday! Thanks for the thread on how to pull the trans. Sometimes it jumps out of first if you don't go to second before downshifting to first. I might as well fix that while it's out. Any clues where to start? Bent or worn shift fork?
