pjm10626

I am about to hit 50k miles and I was wondering if there is a link to dealer or personal recommendations of service/maintenance at different mileage intervals. I was thinking trans, diff fluid, and oil change. what else? I bought the car form a guy who always had it dealer maintained. I would like to continue a good service record, minus the dealerships overcharging.

wcryan

iTrader: (2)

tranny, diff, oil, coolant

odthetruth

iTrader: (4)

I haven't had to do a coolant flush in these cars, but all the other 3 are pretty simple to do yourself.

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

Id just do oil at 50k, especially if the car wasnt tracked a lot. The rest is overkill, coolant is good to like 100k if I remember correctly.

CTSV_510

iTrader: (1)

I would do oil, diff, trans, plugs and fuel filter. Because....why not? A couple hundred bucks to start fresh in your new used vehicle is worth it to me.

The oil, differential and the fuel filter would be definites, trans and plugs arent really necessary.

All this is easy to do, just check cadillacfaq.com for the procedures and tools needed.

shadyLS6

welcome, +1/\
.a.k.a.. all the dealer did was change the oil and filter and send it on its way.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

If you're smart (i.e.: not penny wise, pound foolish), I highly recommend putting the following fluids in your car:

1. Redline 15W-40 diesel oil in the engine (6.5 quarts)
2. Redline 75W140 GL-5 in the differential (2 quarts)
3. Redline D4 ATF (3 quarts) + Redline MTL 70W80 (1 quart) mix in the transmission.

If you want more details regarding why, let me know. Otherwise, trust me. It'll cost you about $300 for a 5 gallon thing of 15W-40, a gallon of 75W140, a gallon of D4 ATF, and two quarts of MTL 70W80, but remember: oil is NOT oil is NOT oil.

The 15W-40 diesel oil alone will give you 50k more miles on your motor, and the other oils will cut transmission and differential noise in half.

-T-

iTrader: (2)

Do not use Deisel intended oils in your gasoline engine, especially one with emissions. There are so many more cons than pros. Do yourself a favor and take everything on a forum with a grain of salt. Too high in phosphorus and zinc for our engines and catalytic converters

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Wow. Beware forum advice indeed.

If you did your research, you'd know that the API has been reducing the concentration of zinc and other protective additives since the 1970s from around 1800 ppm to under 400 ppm in order to prolong the life of catalytic converters--in cars that burn a significant amount of oil--instead of having the EPA mandate better catalytic converters. Zinc does nothing but good for engines. Read:

http://www.hotrod.com/pitstop/hrdp_0..._oil_additive/

http://joegibbsdriven.com/trainingce...oiloldcar.html

If you want to debate this at length later, please let me know. I can't write a full post because my girlfriend is waiting for me to run her back to school.

-T-

iTrader: (2)

OP, I want to apologize in advance for the thread jack, I just didn't want you to go out and purchase some diesel engine oil because "logic is fuzzy" said so.

Fuzzy,

I could no doubt be a jerk and copy and paste a few links in here for you that would pertain to this very topic. But I see that you are most very defensive on your opinion based off of "extensive" research. For one, both links you provided are topics that are strictly communicating the zinc levels for flat tappet cam motors. Newer oils having less zinc that are GF-4 and SM compliant have lower zinc levels and are thought of as being harmful to these engines (flat-tappet). Again, that is an industry debate that has absolutely nothing to do with our generation motors. Now with your extensive mod list, I am going to assume that a shop installed your internal engine components. And from that assumption I will remind you that our engines have roller cams. We do not risk the excessive wear on roller cams that are subjective to flat-tappet cams. That is the reason for limited zinc requirement.

However, the EPA has again mandated starting in 2004 that catalytic converters meet a minimum mile reliability specification. I believe that was 80K then. It has since increased to 150K miles. Zinc and phosphorus are extremely harmful to catalytic converters. This is a fact and has been stated by many industry experts as oil regulations being the limiter on catalytic converter life.

So go back, and please read your posted links. I did not expect you to respond and argue but yet prove my point. But thank you for making it easy.

"If you have an older car without a catalytic converter but don't have flat tappets, is there any advantage to using the oils with higher zinc content?"

His question is related to have a roller cam without cats and the possible advantage of running higher zinc content oils. I will leave the rest of the reading up to you.

Read more: http://www.hotrod.com/pitstop/hrdp_0...#ixzz1u8WQBGgH

pjm10626

Thanks for all of the replies.

What tranny and diff fluid would yal recommend? And plugs and wires? (not sure if I'll do plugs and wires this round but maybe next round of oil)

-T-

iTrader: (2)

Check out cadillacfaq.com. 9 out of 10 maintenance topics for our Gen 1 V's are addressed in great detail there. Great site!

CTSV_510

iTrader: (1)

I use Amsoil ATF in the trans and Amsoil 75w-90 Severe Gear Oil + slip lock additive in the diff. Leave the wires unless they're damaged. Plugs - if you want to use copper use NGK TR-5 in a stock motor. If you want iridium you can get the NGK TR5ix.

DMM

WTF? Don't know why a person would think this is a good idea, gas and diesel motors are completely different and require different viscosity for a reason...cylinder pressures. There is no benefit to oil that thick with our bearing clearances, and the thicker viscosity is only going to cause unnecessarily increased drag and will not protect any better than 5/30 that is recommended for use. You could actually do some real harm here since 15/40 takes so long to drain back to the pan. Why do you think diesels require almost 2 gallons of oil for a 6.0? (And they only spin to about 3500 - FYI)

Truly a case of something you can do although it probably isn't the best idea.....and I don't care what magazine article you have in hand....


My '97 Powerstroke diesel had a Cat. converter....don't know where you are going with that

/\ This. Drain and fill fluids are quick and easy, if you are unsure I would go ahead and do them all. I have always done the fuel filters on my vehicles every 3rd oil change. It only takes one fill up where the station just got a delivery that stirs up the crap in the tanks and winds up in your fuel filter...and they don't hold much.

I started working for GM dealerships when I was 17, and the "service packages" are garbage geared to making as much profit as possible. Cross out all of the "inspect" this and that and you'll find that in most cases you are paying $500 for an oil change and rotate and balance.

The import services are even worse....complete rape and pillage of their customers.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I really don't have time for this right now, but I'll try to throw a couple of helpful articles down (see below).

Using 15W-40 or diesel-engine oil should not harm your engine, as long as you understand when/why to use it. Modern diesel-engine oils fall into CJ-4/SM category, meaning they satisfy all API requirements of all time for both gasoline and diesel engines. If you run your engine hard in hot weather, you'll be almost entirely reliant on the additives in the oil to provide a film barrier between the moving parts (not just the contact patch on the cam, regardless of the type). While the rotating tolerances on the LS engines are set for a 30 weight oil there are other considerations when choosing an oil. The published oil weight is based on an operating temperature, in this case 200-210F. As oil temperature increases the effective oil weight decreases, in other words a 30 weight oil will have the same viscosity as a 20 weight at a given (higher) temperature. A 40 weight oil has the potential to damage bearings at normal operating temperatures by creating more bearing film. However, at elevated operating temps, a 40 weight oil might be advantageous. Ultimately, understanding the nomenclature and how the oil functions in a given environment is paramount. Zinc/phosphorous' deleterious effect on your catalytic converters and O2 sensors shouldn't be a problem unless you're planning on sticking with your stock cats and O2 sensors for the life of the car.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/518/motor-oils

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Item..._got_zinc.aspx

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

http://www.zddplus.com/TechBrief13%2...0Viscosity.pdf

http://filtrationcomparisons.weebly....nclusions.html

Oh, and by the way--I've done every single modification myself. No dealership or shop has ever touched this car (except for emissions and tuning). My RWHP / RWTQ numbers are way out of date--they were with my custom CAI, OBX headers, and modified Kooks/Magnaflow exhaust only. I will be posting a build thread with dyno numbers in a month or two. Expect to see ~440 RWHP. I average 15.5 MPG in aggressive, mixed urban/rural driving.

CTSV_510

iTrader: (1)

It SHOULD not harm your engine?

Other considerations besides manufacturer recommendations based on the engine THEY built?

So...you want me to use it anyway?

Fuzzy you're not going to convince anyone here to put the 15w-40 diesel oil in their V so you don't have to waste the time you don't have anymore. I'm glad it works for you and your V but I've done my own research and there is no way I am using diesel engine oil in my motor.

Now lets stop confusing the OP and get on with it...

-T-

iTrader: (2)

Your 97 power stroke Deisel cat is also vastly different than a gasoline engine cat. That's where I'm going with that!


No one asked about your dyno numbers and frankly I'm really not interested. I know u just got out of school and think u can change the world, but the one thing college can't teach you, your way is not always the best.

None of your articles referenced using diesel oil in a gasoline engine and the stats behind the use of. "gaining 50k life out of an engine", still haven't seen that yet. Article 1, 3, & 4 provide nothing for this debate, especially your biased filtration link.

Article 2 talks about using Diesel oil in gas engines for BREAK-IN. This is used for the high zinc properties. It does not state it's beneficial use for all oil changes and daily use. The other articles pertain to racing applications. As much as you may want your LS2 to be a racing engine, it is far from it. How often does NASCAR rebuild their motors? Every 3-500 miles? Sounds like long term reliability to me.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

It won't harm your engine as long as you know when and how to use it. You could harm your engine if you run it in the winter, or run the engine hard when it's cold.

Don't use the oil if you don't want to. I don't think you're putting as much thought into what you're saying as you could. I might be able to counter your "considerations" statement one of two ways: I could point at your signature and note that your engine is operating under conditions that are vastly different from the design conditions that led the GM engineers to write the fluid recommendations found in your owner's manual, or I could approach it from the perspective of the Cadillac engineers developing the first V for an older, staid audience. They were juggling a lot of ***** with the first generation design. How many aspects of this design do we outright reject these days (e.g. dual-mass flywheel, shifter, rear end, CAGS, DOT3, transmission and differential fluid replacement schedule, etc)?

In the end, it's your car and your responsibility to be as informed as you can be about how to treat it. I'm definitely still learning as I go, and I rely on a number of sources (including these debates, which are fun) to refine my understanding of how these things work.

shadyLS6

hahahh great poast fuzzynutz i think your gonna end up being the next mike nice at this rate

+1 on this diff fill...i'm running the same thing minus the diff additave.. no neg effects on the diff without it.. aka no chattering from the clutch packs.. it quieted my diff down alittle in 6th gear at 70mph- less drone but negligible.. I did it 5k after the new diff was installed by the dealer to get the break in oil out.. LOVE THAT GRAPE DRANK but not in my diff....

I used Amsoil Torque-Drive Synthetic Transmission Fluid in the trans..
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...on-atf-vs.html

got it from /\ c66.. forum discount

pjm10626

Yeah I found a thread on the other forum and ima order the amsoil atd torque drive for the tranny and the severe gear 75w110 w addative from c66. Thanks for everyone's input. When I get it changed I'll let yal know if I notice any difference from the factory fluids.