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best rear end fix for gen 1 v's???

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Old 06-22-2012, 04:12 PM   #1
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Default best rear end fix for gen 1 v's???

im wondering what the best fix for the rear end is? and what is the cheapest but most reliable fix?
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:19 PM   #2
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"cheapest but most reliable fix"

Don't beat on it.

Failing that, don't do clutch dumps and that includes "power shifting".

If you are not gonna do those, then there isn't a "cheap fix".
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:32 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heavymetals View Post
"cheapest but most reliable fix"

Don't beat on it.

Failing that, don't do clutch dumps and that includes "power shifting".

If you are not gonna do those, then there isn't a "cheap fix".
Pretty much agree with that. I'd say no clutch dumps, and no 1-2 speed shifts, no sticky drag tires, and very limited drag strip use. I speed shift 2-3 all the time. My 80K car is still on its original diff. No humming, but the dealer changed the ring/pinion and bearings at 50K.

Cheap/reliable/fast: you can only choose two. Cheap and reliable don't generally go together. No kit will be cheap. If you have the skills and motivation, I'd bet you could put something together for $1500-$2500. If you want a bolt in "kit", you'll be spending $5,000+.
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:46 PM   #4
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Cheapest is find a used diff... Reliable would be go with the latest version diff and dont be stupid with it... Depends on how you're gonna drive the car before we can give you a proper response
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:55 PM   #5
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If I ever get my car back I'm testing this! Probably the cheapest insurance currently available.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 06-22-2012, 06:50 PM   #6
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Looks like a diff becoming Borg.
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:12 PM   #7
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By the time you spend all the money upgrading your diff...

You could sell your car and put the money for diff upgrades towards the down payment on a nice V2 wagon

Just sayin...

-meaty
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:23 PM   #8
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why the hell do you type -meaty after every post? you do realize there's forum signatures, right?
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:25 PM   #9
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best fix? lol I guess Gforce 9" full rear. cheapest? lol, better sell the car.
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:35 PM   #10
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I have been wondering the same thing my diff is starting to whine and I am debating repairing it or putting the latest version diff in it. I don't have to 5k to get an 8.8 kit. Would it even be worth repairing it? It's an 05 with 67k miles.
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:35 PM   #11
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8.8. And now u all know why I sold my shitty diff v1 for my built rear v1... Lol
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:47 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BADCTS View Post
If I ever get my car back I'm testing this! Probably the cheapest insurance currently available.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
you put some time into this and it's some nice work ...but..

seems to me like the forces that break these things are great enough to

flex your brace at the 90 degree connections unless you were to

tie the other side and top into it creating a true diff "girdle"

The pinion gear is trying to walk off (or push away) from the

ring gear and if you tie both sides of the case together wouldn't

it resist these forces better?

I'm no engineer or expert that's just my 2 cents but it looks great

and surely can't hurt.

Also, what about the different materials which expand and contract at

different temps? You are binding an aluminum housing with a steel

brace. When you heat it up to 300 degrees will it cause bearings and/or

bushings to become mis-aligned?

Just throwing it out there........

one more thing, what is the second hole in the bottom plate for? One is the drain and ??
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:11 AM   #13
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well my v is my dd but i run it every now and then at the drag strip and street race some too. Like scottylow said mine is starting to whine too and was considering putting the latest version on mine but was wondering if it was worth it? is there a noticeable difference between them? cuz i dont really have 5k+ to drop
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Old 06-23-2012, 01:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by furbe View Post
you put some time into this and it's some nice work ...but..

seems to me like the forces that break these things are great enough to

flex your brace at the 90 degree connections unless you were to

tie the other side and top into it creating a true diff "girdle"

The pinion gear is trying to walk off (or push away) from the

ring gear and if you tie both sides of the case together wouldn't

it resist these forces better?

I'm no engineer or expert that's just my 2 cents but it looks great

and surely can't hurt.

Also, what about the different materials which expand and contract at

different temps? You are binding an aluminum housing with a steel

brace. When you heat it up to 300 degrees will it cause bearings and/or

bushings to become mis-aligned?

Just throwing it out there........

one more thing, what is the second hole in the bottom plate for? One is the drain and ??
Nah, this is budget friendly reinforcement. The only other option is go spend the $3K+ for the other options out there.

Yes boxing it is best, but the geometry and space don't make it practical. If only there were mounting points on the other side of the diff, but unfortunately there is nothing. 1/4" plate is stout... I'm not worried about it. I'm not worried about CTE either, it works out to less than 3 thicknesses of paper.

That second hole is for clearance around a second, unused boss in the diff housing. That was so I could have the plate as close as possible to the bottom of the diff.

See ya guys!
Mark
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Old 06-23-2012, 04:56 PM   #15
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I like it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BADCTS View Post
If I ever get my car back I'm testing this! Probably the cheapest insurance currently available.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 06-23-2012, 05:28 PM   #16
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I have had the latest version diff in my car for 4 years and 40k miles with 450 rwhp and been to the track only once for three passes, but it's holding up just fine. Plenty of hard 1-2 shifts and tail slides over the years in daily driving and it's not whining, not leaking, and hasn't broken. I have never dumped the clutch though so I don't know how it would hold up to a whole lot of that, but I don't see any reason to spend several thousand dollars just to be able to dump the clutch. Maybe I'm lucky but I haven't had any reason to spend any money back there yet on a diff, axles, etc.
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:57 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RADEoN View Post
why the hell do you type -meaty after every post? you do realize there's forum signatures, right?
Mostly just out of habit. Been posting on forums for the better part of 13 years, and I dunno, just keep on keepin' on, ya know?

-RADEoN
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Old 06-24-2012, 01:35 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTSV_510 View Post
I have had the latest version diff in my car for 4 years and 40k miles with 450 rwhp and been to the track only once for three passes, but it's holding up just fine. Plenty of hard 1-2 shifts and tail slides over the years in daily driving and it's not whining, not leaking, and hasn't broken. I have never dumped the clutch though so I don't know how it would hold up to a whole lot of that, but I don't see any reason to spend several thousand dollars just to be able to dump the clutch. Maybe I'm lucky but I haven't had any reason to spend any money back there yet on a diff, axles, etc.
The truth. I don't baby my V, but I also don't beat it senseless (2007, so I'm also on the latest revision). Personally, I wouldn't mind the reinforcement of bracing it like what 1BADCTS made.
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:55 AM   #19
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What do you guys mean by "latest version" of diff?
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:29 AM   #20
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I have 22k on the latest gen 4 diff had it installed 12 months ago(dealer replacement) and it's starting to whine 6th gear 55-70mph so don't let the gen 4 fool you into thinking it can't or won't whine.
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:29 AM
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