best rear end fix for gen 1 v's???
06-22-2012, 04:32 PM
#3
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Cheap/reliable/fast: you can only choose two. Cheap and reliable don't generally go together. No kit will be cheap. If you have the skills and motivation, I'd bet you could put something together for $1500-$2500. If you want a bolt in "kit", you'll be spending $5,000+.
06-22-2012, 04:46 PM
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Cheapest is find a used diff... Reliable would be go with the latest version diff and dont be stupid with it... Depends on how you're gonna drive the car before we can give you a proper response
06-22-2012, 07:12 PM
#7
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By the time you spend all the money upgrading your diff...
You could sell your car and put the money for diff upgrades towards the down payment on a nice V2 wagon
Just sayin...
-meaty
You could sell your car and put the money for diff upgrades towards the down payment on a nice V2 wagon
Just sayin...
-meaty
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06-22-2012, 10:35 PM
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I have been wondering the same thing my diff is starting to whine and I am debating repairing it or putting the latest version diff in it. I don't have to 5k to get an 8.8 kit. Would it even be worth repairing it? It's an 05 with 67k miles.
06-23-2012, 09:47 AM
#12
seems to me like the forces that break these things are great enough to
flex your brace at the 90 degree connections unless you were to
tie the other side and top into it creating a true diff "girdle"
The pinion gear is trying to walk off (or push away) from the
ring gear and if you tie both sides of the case together wouldn't
it resist these forces better?
I'm no engineer or expert that's just my 2 cents but it looks great
and surely can't hurt.
Also, what about the different materials which expand and contract at
different temps? You are binding an aluminum housing with a steel
brace. When you heat it up to 300 degrees will it cause bearings and/or
bushings to become mis-aligned?
Just throwing it out there........
one more thing, what is the second hole in the bottom plate for? One is the drain and ??
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06-23-2012, 10:11 AM
#13
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well my v is my dd but i run it every now and then at the drag strip and street race some too. Like scottylow said mine is starting to whine too and was considering putting the latest version on mine but was wondering if it was worth it? is there a noticeable difference between them? cuz i dont really have 5k+ to drop
06-23-2012, 01:14 PM
#14
you put some time into this and it's some nice work ...but..
seems to me like the forces that break these things are great enough to
flex your brace at the 90 degree connections unless you were to
tie the other side and top into it creating a true diff "girdle"
The pinion gear is trying to walk off (or push away) from the
ring gear and if you tie both sides of the case together wouldn't
it resist these forces better?
I'm no engineer or expert that's just my 2 cents but it looks great
and surely can't hurt.
Also, what about the different materials which expand and contract at
different temps? You are binding an aluminum housing with a steel
brace. When you heat it up to 300 degrees will it cause bearings and/or
bushings to become mis-aligned?
Just throwing it out there........
one more thing, what is the second hole in the bottom plate for? One is the drain and ??
seems to me like the forces that break these things are great enough to
flex your brace at the 90 degree connections unless you were to
tie the other side and top into it creating a true diff "girdle"
The pinion gear is trying to walk off (or push away) from the
ring gear and if you tie both sides of the case together wouldn't
it resist these forces better?
I'm no engineer or expert that's just my 2 cents but it looks great
and surely can't hurt.
Also, what about the different materials which expand and contract at
different temps? You are binding an aluminum housing with a steel
brace. When you heat it up to 300 degrees will it cause bearings and/or
bushings to become mis-aligned?
Just throwing it out there........
one more thing, what is the second hole in the bottom plate for? One is the drain and ??
Yes boxing it is best, but the geometry and space don't make it practical. If only there were mounting points on the other side of the diff, but unfortunately there is nothing. 1/4" plate is stout... I'm not worried about it. I'm not worried about CTE either, it works out to less than 3 thicknesses of paper.
That second hole is for clearance around a second, unused boss in the diff housing. That was so I could have the plate as close as possible to the bottom of the diff.
See ya guys!
Mark
06-23-2012, 05:28 PM
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I have had the latest version diff in my car for 4 years and 40k miles with 450 rwhp and been to the track only once for three passes, but it's holding up just fine. Plenty of hard 1-2 shifts and tail slides over the years in daily driving and it's not whining, not leaking, and hasn't broken. I have never dumped the clutch though so I don't know how it would hold up to a whole lot of that, but I don't see any reason to spend several thousand dollars just to be able to dump the clutch. Maybe I'm lucky but I haven't had any reason to spend any money back there yet on a diff, axles, etc.
06-23-2012, 10:57 PM
#17
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06-24-2012, 01:35 PM
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I have had the latest version diff in my car for 4 years and 40k miles with 450 rwhp and been to the track only once for three passes, but it's holding up just fine. Plenty of hard 1-2 shifts and tail slides over the years in daily driving and it's not whining, not leaking, and hasn't broken. I have never dumped the clutch though so I don't know how it would hold up to a whole lot of that, but I don't see any reason to spend several thousand dollars just to be able to dump the clutch. Maybe I'm lucky but I haven't had any reason to spend any money back there yet on a diff, axles, etc.
06-25-2012, 10:29 AM
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I have 22k on the latest gen 4 diff had it installed 12 months ago(dealer replacement) and it's starting to whine 6th gear 55-70mph so don't let the gen 4 fool you into thinking it can't or won't whine.