NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

I'm still on a stock trans mount. I don't have any issues though. Car shifts just fine. Tempted to order this just to ensure its new and tight. Trying to decide if it's worth it or not...

furbe

This is a bad thing?

tmonttt

iTrader: (10)

Well, I finally got around to installing this thing today and like previously stated, only took about 10 minutes to get in once on jacks. I was able to get it seated in using some grease, dish soap and my hands. Once it was partially in, I used a flat metal bar and pried off of the driveshaft bolts.

Once I got it back on the ground and took it for a drive, the same symptoms as someone in this thread previously was having. I wasn't able to get it into 2nd or 4th without it making a tap tap tap noise. Of course, I realized this was due to having one of the modified stock shifters that have the extra shaft welded to the bottom. I swapped the shifter arm, bushings and sleeve back to the original shifter mount location and it was a night and day difference. I can get into any gear at any speed like butter now. Even cured my going into 1st at a stop issue.


I highly recommend this insert to people who are above 100k miles due to how much the trans mount does begin to sag over time. It made my shifting 10x's better than prior and just overall, an easier driver friendly car.

isis

iTrader: (1)

So using this with a modified stock shifter is a problem? I just ordered both. :-(

07CTS-V

iTrader: (6)

You can put a spacer and notch out the plastic hold down in the center console. It basically raises the entire shifter into the cabin and keeps the shift linkage from hitting the driveshaft. I've done it to several cars.

isis

iTrader: (1)

Perfect. Shouldn't be hard then. Any tips or links? Or is it pretty obvious once you get in there?

isis

iTrader: (1)

This is to raise the ball-pivot point right? I see where the spacer would go, but what kind of notch do you mean? I'm not sure I can tell what, besides a spacer, is necessary. It looks like the upside-down tophat thing that the ball sits in should be spaced upwards.

Why and where for the notch? Thanks for humoring me.

Any measurements on the spacer so I can premake it before I get in there?

chitown21y

iTrader: (6)

Any pics of this?

Busted_Nut

Hey guys,

My '05 has over 100K now, and I am having trouble getting in reverse. I am also hearing a slight "thump" sound when applying the throttle quickly. At one point I was told I needed a new trans mount, but then my mechanic came back and said it looked fine.
Could these symtoms be related to the trans mount?
The install write-up by fuzzy seems so straight forward, but I do not want to get under there get the old collapsed one out and not be able to get the new RevShift back in... anyone think this could be an issue?

Thank you in advance for your advice,

- Nut

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

You need to read the install guide again, then. The RevShift block is inserted INTO the original trans mount. You don't have to take out the trans mount.

Busted_Nut

Thank you Dactari. That makes sense now, when I go back and look at the picture more carefully, I can see the original rubber still in the mount. The new insert just fits in between there. Appreciate the reply.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

isis

iTrader: (1)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...1#post16896461

Wanted to link these

thefullmonty_07

iTrader: (1)

I'm in the same boat, don't have any issues but I don't know if it'd make better than what I'm use to in anyway. I don't want to install it and run into the issues like some of the other guys had with 1st and 2nd. If you do decide to install it I'd like to know how it turned out for you...that'd help with making a decision.

05CTSV

iTrader: (16)

I just installed mine a couple days back. The install wasn't too bad. I couldn't press mine in from under the car like others. I ended up taking the mount out. For that the exhaust had to come off. The exhaust is still factory, so original bolts, nice and rusty. Several snapped exhaust bolts later the mount was back in. I ended up just drilling out the holes in the factory cat flange and using stainless bolts when putting it back together. Not hard to do, just took longer than I was expecting.

I bought my 05 at a dealer so I have no idea if it's a stock or after market shifter. But Since installing the mount I'm having a light tapping sound at idle, and it becomes more pronounced in 4th gear in the 1500-2000 rpm range. I didn't have the sound before installing the insert. I may try taking it back out tonight to see if the sound goes away. Not sure if that helps anyone's decision or not, just my 2 cents.

I put the blue revshift motor mounts in a few weeks ago, I love those!

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Personally, I think that you probably have one of the two aftermarket "custom" (read: modified stock) shifters. Probably Brian's (PISNUOFF here and on the CadillacForums).

The fact that you stated that the problem occurs at idle and 4th indicates that the problem is most likely caused by the base of the shifter just brushing the transmission. If you're going to have clearance issues, the neutral to 4th gear transition is where you'd have it.

In my opinion, you should take a picture of the shifter from the cup holders to let us see whether your shifter is at stock height. That would help eliminate the possibility that this issue isn't something a symptom of something worse. Barring that (unlikely) outcome, I'll probably recommend just toughing it out until the poly breaks in a little bit. You could shave off a couple millimeters of material on the bottom of the stalk, but I doubt it's worth the effort.

07CTS-V

iTrader: (6)

No matter what REVSHIFT 'debunks' I still believe his mounts raise the motor and trans higher than stock. Being in Warren, MI in no way makes you an automotive design engineer and speculating that the design engineers did not plan on OIL FILLED RUBBER motor mounts compressing is not a correct assumption. After about 2 days of driving, the stock mounts compress, especially the motor mounts. Basically, if anything else is worn out and you have any short shifter you're going to hit.

I knew I should have just had my supplier of polyurethane parts make me some. I suppose I could have them quoted. They would be 1/4" shorter and have the alignment studs.

05CTSV

iTrader: (16)

I think I figured it out this evening. I got the car back up on jacks and started poking around. I remembered that when I reinstalled the mount I had the transmission still supported by the jack when I tightened the two 15mm bolts that bolt the mount to the sides of the transmission. I loosened both sides and the transmission dropped down about an 1/8 of an inch.

With those bolts loose I could lift the transmission up about that high. So I'm suspecting that when I tightened the mount down to the transmission with the transmission up on the jack it was just enough to tweak it and cause the rattle/clunky sound I was hearing. I let the transmission rest its weight on the mount with those to bolts loose I even wiggled it a few more times to make sure it was sitting the mount and not half suspended in the mount. Tightened the bolts backup, took it out for a drive, much improved.

I pulled the shift boot and it looks like I still have the stock shifter. The sound is not present at idle now and just barely there at speeds. I think the mount does increase any driveline vibrations and amplifies them in the body. I'm going to keep the mount in for now and see how it goes.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

If my (and just about everyone else's) experience is anything to go by, the vibration will go away in a couple of weeks of daily driving.

isis

iTrader: (1)

Can the shifter plate be flipped over? It looks like with a little trimming of contours you can flip the plate over that holds the shift assembly against the car. Wouldn't that lift it well enough for any short shifter with a longer lower stalk?