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RevShift Transmission Block Installed

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Old 06-23-2012, 08:40 PM   #1
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Default RevShift Transmission Block Installed

I completed the Revshift transmission block installation today. The following is a copy and paste from what I wrote on the Cadillac Forums. Figured my fellow members here would find it interesting.

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Just got RevShift transmission mount installed. Now that I'm finished, I could probably repeat the installation in less than 10 minutes. Instructions:
  1. Put car on jacks. Don't bother removing the exhaust or prepping your vehicle in any other way.
  2. Put hydraulic jack under back of transmission (forward of the transmission brace) and lift until vehicle is almost taken off the jack stands. That'll open the gap slightly.
  3. Lube the RevShift transmission block. Get under the car and use a normal hammer to get the front edge seated equally in the gap on both sides.
  4. Turn the hammer sideways and jam the head up past the transmission mount into the propeller flange. Now you have a lever. Push the handle of the hammer toward the front of the car, forcing the transmission block into the mount. You might have to re-seat the hammer a couple of times to get the right angle.

Impressions: my transmission mount only has 24k miles on it, so it was in very good shape. However, there was a very clear difference between the feel of the car before and after the RevShift transmission block installation. The most obvious change was the fact that by raising the back end of the transmission slightly, more pressure was placed on the shifter plate and consequently, I noticed a mild decrease in shifter slop. It's slightly notchier now that it was before (Katech v2 short shifter + UUC bushings), which isn't appreciated, but doesn't affect my ability to shift. I also feel slightly more transmission vibration through the shifter and into the car, which I like because my "butt dyno" has more data to chew on. When combined with the Creative Steel differential bushing and block, there was a slight, additional reduction in the infamous parade clunk that we all hate. I presume that disengaging the clutch is creating a torque reversal that causes upward deflection in the transmission, which this block tries to counteract.

In summary, the RevShift transmission block is ridiculously overpriced (it probably costs RevShift less than $5 to mold this), but still represents a worthwhile upgrade over the OEM Cadillac transmission mount. I didn't have shifting problems due to a collapsed transmission mount, so I'm not the primary audience for this part. Still, I don't regret the $50 because of the peace of mind and increased vibratory feel through the shifter that this block provides. For those of you that suspect that your shifting problems are due to transmission misalignment, this upgrade is a no-brainer.
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2006 CTS-V - 422 RWHP/383 RWTQ/3795 lbs - Complete Mod List
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- KW Variant 3 with Swift 120/160 springs, Banski RSMs, Custom FK LSMs
- 5-lug 19x11/20x12" Forgestar F14s, KRC adjustable power steering
- RacingBrake 355/365mm 2pc rotors, ET800 pads, CTS-V2 calipers
- McLeod RXT, Custom McLeod 1373, Comp TRuTorq L3 cam
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:12 PM   #2
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Thanks for sharing! This is something I need to consider doing as well.
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:15 PM   #3
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I need to order one of these
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:27 PM   #4
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Something I'll be doing along with my motor mount install soon. Heard its a PITA sometimes, but your instructions make it seem simple.
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:54 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c View Post
which I like because my "butt dyno" has more data to chew on.


In summary, the RevShift transmission block is ridiculously overpriced (it probably costs RevShift less than $5 to mold this), ...... Still, I don't regret the $50 because of the peace of mind and increased vibratory feel through the shifter that this block provides.
Why is your butt chewing on things, number one? How much do you inset into your butt for it to chew, on a daily/monthly basis?

And secondly, what do you mean by more notchy? By notchy do you mean a firmer shift, that's providing more feedback? Or do you mean that it feels like you're moving it along a smooth surface and then there's a "feel" as if you are plugging something in to a receptacle and there's the feel something kinda locking into place?


The shifter on my miata feels like you're literally moving things around in the gearbox, which I absolutely love. Feels like it's connected to a working machine, unlike the spongy shifter in the V.

Have you driven any other cars with a stick that you can compare what your "new" shifter feel is?


Just honestly curious what you mean by notchy. Notchy can mean a lot of things.

-meaty
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:21 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meatyCTS-V View Post
And secondly, what do you mean by more notchy? By notchy do you mean a firmer shift, that's providing more feedback? Or do you mean that it feels like you're moving it along a smooth surface and then there's a "feel" as if you are plugging something in to a receptacle and there's the feel something kinda locking into place?
By "notchy," I mean that I can feel the each individual gear slot distinctly, and when I shift, I can feel the transmission changing gears.

In a sense, I agree that it's cool to feel what's going on inside the transmission. However, it also means that you have to be more precise when changing gears since the shifter can no longer compensate for any minor mistakes on your end.

Put differently, a stock CTS-V will find 3rd gear for you, even if you move the shifter a little past 3rd (toward 1st or 5th) because the sloppy linkage can deflect a little to either side when it hits the edge of a slot. With a more precise shifter, if you hit the edge of a slot, you'll feel the impact and resistance and have to make up for it--in the blink of an eye--by guiding the shifter in the right direction and adding more muscle.
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2006 CTS-V - 422 RWHP/383 RWTQ/3795 lbs - Complete Mod List
- G-Force 9" IRS with PST 3.75" carbon fiber driveshaft and 35 spline axles
- Strange Engineering S-Trac with Pro Iron case and 3.50 ratio
- KW Variant 3 with Swift 120/160 springs, Banski RSMs, Custom FK LSMs
- 5-lug 19x11/20x12" Forgestar F14s, KRC adjustable power steering
- RacingBrake 355/365mm 2pc rotors, ET800 pads, CTS-V2 calipers
- McLeod RXT, Custom McLeod 1373, Comp TRuTorq L3 cam

Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 06-24-2012 at 06:46 AM..
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Old 06-24-2012, 07:19 AM   #7
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That's the first time in my life I've ever heard someone say shifter slop helps them get into gear.
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Old 06-24-2012, 08:34 AM   #8
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I could see it helping when the mount gets compressed. But my mount the rubber actually seperated from the metal. When i would go over bumps I could feel the shifter lift in my hand. I did and would still prefer a poly mount.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 06-24-2012, 09:35 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RADEoN View Post
That's the first time in my life I've ever heard someone say shifter slop helps them get into gear.
I think it is a lot easier to find gears on the stock shifter than the UUC one. But the UUC one "feels" better because there is less slop or sideways movement. It's still a crappy linkage though, so that feel is somewhat artificial and it definitely doesn't help you shift quickly.
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Old 06-24-2012, 09:52 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aurora40 View Post
I think it is a lot easier to find gears on the stock shifter than the UUC one. But the UUC one "feels" better because there is less slop or sideways movement. It's still a crappy linkage though, so that feel is somewhat artificial and it definitely doesn't help you shift quickly.
Speaking of which, the shorter the shifter, the less leverage you have. Translation: short shifters require more strength. And they tend to expose any shortcomings in the linkage.
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2006 CTS-V - 422 RWHP/383 RWTQ/3795 lbs - Complete Mod List
- G-Force 9" IRS with PST 3.75" carbon fiber driveshaft and 35 spline axles
- Strange Engineering S-Trac with Pro Iron case and 3.50 ratio
- KW Variant 3 with Swift 120/160 springs, Banski RSMs, Custom FK LSMs
- 5-lug 19x11/20x12" Forgestar F14s, KRC adjustable power steering
- RacingBrake 355/365mm 2pc rotors, ET800 pads, CTS-V2 calipers
- McLeod RXT, Custom McLeod 1373, Comp TRuTorq L3 cam
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Old 06-24-2012, 12:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c View Post
Speaking of which, the shorter the shifter, the less leverage you have. Translation: short shifters require more strength. And they tend to expose any shortcomings in the linkage.
Have you ever driven a FWD car with an adjustable shifter where you can adjust the fulcrum up and down along the length of a shifter?

I've never once heard anyone say "Yeah, now my right arm is looking like Popeye's because I have this thing adjusted as low as it'll go!"


I can't imagine it being any different in the V.

Also, you can buy weighted gear shift *****... I imagine that would negate any kind of feeling of having to put "strength" behind your shift.

-RADEoN
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Old 06-24-2012, 04:33 PM   #12
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I didn't know this was available. I recently installed a brand new GM mount, so I just ordered this insert to put in it.
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Old 06-25-2012, 02:26 PM   #13
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Great write up Fuzzy, way easier than what I did!!

The insert made a huge difference in my ability to shift, my mount had collapsed almost completely, worth every penny.
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Old 06-25-2012, 02:31 PM   #14
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Has this mount cured anyone's stubborn shift into first from a stop?

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 06-27-2012, 06:59 PM   #15
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I installed this today with the tips from Fuzzy it went extremely smooth. I was able to pry it in without much issue.

I put the vehicle on the ground and shifted gears and it felt good real solid I was excited had just gotten out of an 11 hour shift had been up for over 24hours and went to bed. Woke up late and had to head back into work. I reversed out of my driveway and it felt great. I started driving put it in first... then second? Second? What the hell. Trying to get it into second gear while moving was extremely difficult and when you got it in it would vibrate horrifically unless i held it to the bottom left of the shifter gate with all my strength then it wouldn't vibrate. I said ok lets try 3rd and that was smooth like first. I then tried 4th and everytime you tried to put it in it sound like gears grinding it was terrible. I put it in 5th that was fine even 6th was ok.

Anyone have any ideas why this could be happening? I have the (custom short shifter) and am thinking of maybe adjusting that bottom bolt that hooks to the linkage. I know people have said sometimes if the nut is too tight or loose it can cause issues but does anyone else have any ideas?
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:16 AM   #16
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I installed their MM's and Revshift's stuff is top notch....I wouldn't expect anything less from this mount. Nice writeup!
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Old 06-28-2012, 09:00 AM   #17
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My wife says mine requires too much strength. She hates driving it since I shortened it and moved the pivot point.
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Old 06-28-2012, 09:29 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabbiani View Post
My wife says mine requires too much strength. She hates driving it since I shortened it and moved the pivot point.
That's a pet peeve of mine: women's wrist strength is typically awful. I was a honor caddy for 9 years. Less than 5% of the women I caddied for could keep their wrists straight when they were swinging any club other than a putter.

*sigh*
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2006 CTS-V - 422 RWHP/383 RWTQ/3795 lbs - Complete Mod List
- G-Force 9" IRS with PST 3.75" carbon fiber driveshaft and 35 spline axles
- Strange Engineering S-Trac with Pro Iron case and 3.50 ratio
- KW Variant 3 with Swift 120/160 springs, Banski RSMs, Custom FK LSMs
- 5-lug 19x11/20x12" Forgestar F14s, KRC adjustable power steering
- RacingBrake 355/365mm 2pc rotors, ET800 pads, CTS-V2 calipers
- McLeod RXT, Custom McLeod 1373, Comp TRuTorq L3 cam
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Old 06-28-2012, 11:27 AM   #19
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My wrist strength is top notch......lots of practice.
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Old 07-03-2012, 11:37 AM   #20
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I installed it and the awkwardness of getting in 1st and 2nd gear has been fixed.
So now I have constant shifting feeling for 1 to 6 gears
I did not expect this dramatic change but it happened

But also noise level is also increased. It feels like drivetrain is stick to the chassis.
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Old 07-03-2012, 11:37 AM
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