Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

not much different really, the concept remains the same..but I think the 'softer' urethane might transmit less noise while accomplishing the same thing as the bushings...le. I just extended the shape of the existing bushing and sandwiched it down inside the housing. The washers I used don't contact the center bolt housing so vibration is kept to a minimum.

I did this about a month or 2 ago.. first I cut the small lip off the existing bushing to create a nice flat surface. for you all that have never messed with these, that cylindrical part of the middle of the bushing is tubular metal and houses a long bolt inserted in the bottom that holds the cradle against the frame. The cradle rocks around and the only thing that prevents lateral tilt is the rubber seen here..




then I cut some templates out of cardboard to match the existing bushing's shape and height, keeping surface contact to a minimum like they intended, but filling the void.










then shot the holes full, put one of the washers in there, and tightened it up just enough to hold the stuff in, let it sit overnight. (these pics show the rough result after removing the templates the next day). I then used a metal file to shave it down to the right uniform height (not shown here)





added the washers to the top and bottom (I started out with two on top and bottom. It was way too firm. I took one of them out and it was just right).







I ended up with basically a bushing like stock but filling the entire housing, which is sandwiched just enough to prevent the wiggling rear and firm up the cradle in turns. It has done that nicely...

I haven't tested it for wheelhop because there's no point. I don't have axles or anything and I don't feel like beating on the diff...but it has eliminated the slight skipping I would get on turning starts and in the wet. I can also putt along in a parking lot in 1st without throttle and it's not herky jerky. The shutdown is also alot smoother than before. It's crazy how this whole drivetrain is tied together by cushy parts and when you tighten up one section, all the other parts start taking on a much bigger load.

When I first did this I was so addicted to the firmer pedal I thought I had trashed my diff bushing because it was clunking. The bushing ended up being fine (10k miles).


So I added just the diff block and did the carrier bearing donut fill...





It's pretty damn firm now...but not too rigid. Lots of play and stress was transferred forward to the clutch and motor mounts. I confirmed just today that I've destroyed a motor mount. not sure which one yet but I can get in first and make the whole engine thump up and down...

jmargo

iTrader: (10)

Whats the 3M part number on the stuff you used ? This may work with the trans mount.

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

Not sure, I threw out the container. They sell it at autozone $25 a tube. Just make sure the expiration date printed on the container is in the future or it might be bad.

I used it to fill the void in my trans mount too..

jmargo

iTrader: (10)

I take it the results were favorable ?

edit: Found it...3M 08609

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

I can't say, I did it while the car was on jackstands for 5 months. I had the trans and clutch out, so I couldn't really tell.. I know it raised it back up a bit just by looking at it visually.. I figured it couldn't hurt. I only filled the center part of the mount.

I'd also recommend doing it when you can let it cure for a few days before installing

jrane

iTrader: (10)

**Update** So I finally got started I got the bushings pulled out, and have the measurements to start making the billet inserts. While im doing this im swaping in a ford 8.8 rear with the brackets from C.S. The project though has kind of become a back burner because I've got real busy but I'll keep you updated with progress.