DIY Ford 8.8 into V1 Build thread
12-12-2012, 08:45 PM
#81
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GulfM3
Here that rear differential cover brace I was talking about.
http://www.supercoupeperformance.com...spx?partId=494
Here that rear differential cover brace I was talking about.
http://www.supercoupeperformance.com...spx?partId=494
12-13-2012, 10:53 AM
#83
East of Houston and I work downtown.
Yes and mine might go TT after the rear-end. Muahahaha!!!
Anyways, I placed an "order" for some plate that I can hopefully get next week. It should be enough for the first few, and hopefully enough for 5-6 sets of brackets.....
Bowtie, ummmm you can ship that stuff but we already have most of it.
If you are ever heading this way bring it.....
Thanks a ton for the help from Blake and Glenn and for the PMs and offers and everything to come.
Yes and mine might go TT after the rear-end. Muahahaha!!!
Anyways, I placed an "order" for some plate that I can hopefully get next week. It should be enough for the first few, and hopefully enough for 5-6 sets of brackets.....
Bowtie, ummmm you can ship that stuff but we already have most of it.
If you are ever heading this way bring it.....
Thanks a ton for the help from Blake and Glenn and for the PMs and offers and everything to come.
12-14-2012, 09:09 AM
#86
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Anyone know If I can pick up some 8.8 front diff bushings locally? I'm going to start the rear bracket today after work, if I can find bushings I'll get the front bracket done tomorrow.
Will post pics tomorrow.
Will post pics tomorrow.
12-14-2012, 10:40 AM
#90
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I may swing by tomorrow morning and grab them from you.
I agree, and if it does become sticky we should condense it down to just pictures, diagrams, part numbers, etc. Cut out all the extra BS.
I agree, and if it does become sticky we should condense it down to just pictures, diagrams, part numbers, etc. Cut out all the extra BS.
12-14-2012, 10:52 AM
#91
We would love to come to market with something for the DIYers out there.
I have always been a hot rodder on a budget and have always looked for better or different options.
I don't make or have alot of money and I love to weld, fab and make ****.
WE are R&Ding this and seeing what is the most feasible and exactly where and what we CAN do with this.
It may just be brackets OR like I have done in the past, the CAD drawings/program so you can just cut your own.
Short Story:
I started this thread as a place to collect the 8.8 info for the 2004-2007 CTSV.
We are building some brackets for the three of us, because we want to challenge ourselves to see what we can do, are too poor to afford the other options that are available, etc, etc, etc.
(as you can see there is no short story with me. lol)
Preach!
12-15-2012, 09:12 AM
#95
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54Inches got to the shop after I had been working on the bracket for a while, here are the pictures showing how to get to the first bracket picture he posted.
First things first, clamp that sucker down.
Next trace the outside and drill pilot holes. Use a hand drill just to get them started.
Now you have a perfect bolt pattern you can take to a drill press.
By the way, 11/32 bit.
On the press, the pilots you started earlier guide you on the press. Don't clamp down the bracket, just let it self center on the drill press bench.
Back on the fab table, mark all the cover webbing locations.
This is where you have to start guessing, because there is nothing to copy or trace. I measured 3/4" from the outside of the case.
Next I measured 3/4" from my traced line, and made a mark. Do this several times around the line you trace.
Time to play connect the dots!
Dots connected and I just freehanded the webbing clearance.
Cut it all out, I actually forgot to cut the vent (top right) at this point.
Nailed it, fits on the first try.
Placing the holes for the mounting bolts (to the cradle) is pretty tricky. But it can be done with careful measurement, nothing needs to be guessed. The two webbing marks on the left and right side of the cover are level. If you draw a line on your bracket connecting the two webbing marks the holes you drill for the mounting bolts need to be perfectly parallel with that line. Then you need to mark center on your bracket, this can be done by bolting the bracket to the case and marking it with a square hanging off the center of the pinion. Sorry I didn't take pictures of this process.
Bottom line, with the center line and horizontal line as reference, the diff will be centered in the cradle directly between the driver and passenger side of the car. And the diff will be in the proper straight up, 12 o-clock orientation, the half shafts will be exactly at 3 & 9.
Working on the front mount today, then I'll order a driveshaft and half shafts. I'm trying something a little different on the Driveshaft, planning on a single piece carbon fiber with a U joint on the transmission end and a CV joint on the Diff side.
Traction LOK, a new CV pinion flange & gears are already on order.
First things first, clamp that sucker down.
Next trace the outside and drill pilot holes. Use a hand drill just to get them started.
Now you have a perfect bolt pattern you can take to a drill press.
By the way, 11/32 bit.
On the press, the pilots you started earlier guide you on the press. Don't clamp down the bracket, just let it self center on the drill press bench.
Back on the fab table, mark all the cover webbing locations.
This is where you have to start guessing, because there is nothing to copy or trace. I measured 3/4" from the outside of the case.
Next I measured 3/4" from my traced line, and made a mark. Do this several times around the line you trace.
Time to play connect the dots!
Dots connected and I just freehanded the webbing clearance.
Cut it all out, I actually forgot to cut the vent (top right) at this point.
Nailed it, fits on the first try.
Placing the holes for the mounting bolts (to the cradle) is pretty tricky. But it can be done with careful measurement, nothing needs to be guessed. The two webbing marks on the left and right side of the cover are level. If you draw a line on your bracket connecting the two webbing marks the holes you drill for the mounting bolts need to be perfectly parallel with that line. Then you need to mark center on your bracket, this can be done by bolting the bracket to the case and marking it with a square hanging off the center of the pinion. Sorry I didn't take pictures of this process.
Bottom line, with the center line and horizontal line as reference, the diff will be centered in the cradle directly between the driver and passenger side of the car. And the diff will be in the proper straight up, 12 o-clock orientation, the half shafts will be exactly at 3 & 9.
Working on the front mount today, then I'll order a driveshaft and half shafts. I'm trying something a little different on the Driveshaft, planning on a single piece carbon fiber with a U joint on the transmission end and a CV joint on the Diff side.
Traction LOK, a new CV pinion flange & gears are already on order.
12-15-2012, 11:56 AM
#98
I forgot to mention(as I was half asleep posting pictures last night) how nice to was to work with GulfM3. I had a blast!
Great pictures too.
Thanks bud! (Being from Texas, I think everyone is "stuck" in their state, if they can't be here!!)
GulfM3 has some tricks up his sleeve that are exciting and I hope to get over there in the near future to start some retrofitting and real world testing.
Great pictures too.
GulfM3 has some tricks up his sleeve that are exciting and I hope to get over there in the near future to start some retrofitting and real world testing.
12-17-2012, 08:56 AM
#100
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The front mount was actually more difficult to build than I expected, I didn't have a good way to bend the metal around such a tight radius. With a bench vise, a long cheater pipe, some cursing and a BFH I came up with something that is passable. I'm still going back through everything and will clean up the rough edges where I used a torch or plasma cutter.
Then I took the old diff and axles out and reassembled the suspension, once I get my CV pinion flange in I'll install the 8.8 diff and measure for the drive shaft and axles.
Depending on how long it takes for the DS and axles to be made, I'm hoping to have it done just in time for the drag strip to open back up mid January.
Then I took the old diff and axles out and reassembled the suspension, once I get my CV pinion flange in I'll install the 8.8 diff and measure for the drive shaft and axles.
Depending on how long it takes for the DS and axles to be made, I'm hoping to have it done just in time for the drag strip to open back up mid January.
