heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Guys, if you let the res go dry and introduce air into the ABS, you may have to bleed the ABS a couple of times.

If you pump on the pedal you make it WORSE, because that atomizes any air bubble into a bunch of smaller ones (not good) and spreads them throughout the system.

http://www.v8archie.com/arch4.htm

http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/A..._vehicles.aspx

Don't blame the brake lines.

etcts-v

Same issue here, still haven't had a chance to test my latest round but I believe my problem was my Goodrich kit did not include the washers that go on each side of the bolt that threads into the caliper. That along with tightening the line where it connects to the bolt eliminated the non-stop air coming into the line so I finally got a good long gravity bleed with zero air.

Took me 4 large bottles of brake fluid before I figured out I was missing the damn washers! Also had to get the RR line replaced by a Goodrich supplier up here as it has a tiny crack in it. I also bench bled the master for good measure although it's kind of a biotch to do without getting brake fluid everywhere!

Here is a folder with all the factory service brake instructions including bench bleeding, line replacement, manual bleeding and master reconditioning if anyone is interested:

https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0By...lsYWJHbms/edit

johnking3194

took mine to the dealership they say its the abs pump thats the problem and thy have to be pressure bleed

rjoffe

Hopefully you have a decent dealer, and they know what they are doing.

Ron

etcts-v

Will the dealership use Dot 4 fluid when bleeding? Just curious in case I have to go that route as well.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Not unless you bring it with you.

raven154

iTrader: (14)

Even if the don't or won't, as long as it is bled and has a good pedal you should be able to run the new fluid through without issue as long as you keep an eye in the reservoir.

incubusjunkie614

iTrader: (1)

i swapped to stainless steal brake lines. I had a vacuum bleeder on the outside right rear for about 15-20 minutes, i went through roughly 2 bottles of dot-4 fluid, then i proceeded to do to much small intervals at all the bleeders, i went R/R outer then inner, then L/R outer then inner, then L/F outer then inner, and finally R/F bleeders. I did this all with the vacuum bleeder then, I performed a two person, typical, pump...pump...hold....release style. and my pedal feels fantastic. I wouldn't doubt i went through roughly 5-6 bottles, maybe overkill, but hey it worked. for reference my car has stock master, pads/ rotors, and the previously mentioned stainless lines.

rjoffe

I have always brought my own fluids to dealership / mechanic, and no one has ever had a problem with that.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Cold weather fluid? Whaa...?

rjoffe

Sorry

Thread mix, had just replied to a thread about power steering issues on the other forum, and had that on the brain !

9t8z28

iTrader: (19)

Guys try this. I do not know if it will work on the V but it worked on a 4th Gen F-body for me.
Start at the front. Jack up the front of the car. HAve a friend sit in the car with the key to the on position not running or with the engine running.

Spin the wheel by hand as fast as you can and then have your friend apply light pressure to the brakes. This should make the ABS kick in and bleed the block.

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

I finally threw in a new master and no change really... Modulation got a little better but pedal is still soft. Doesn't sink to the floor or anything, just a few inches of softness before I get good braking feel.

Funny thing was the fluid in the old master looked like Jack Daniels!...I've never seen anything like that before :/.

Anyway I bench bled the new master thoroughly and then put about a gallon of fluid through the system... I pressure bled, vacuum bled, and two man bled. nothing.

I still have a few things to try:

-tech2 bleed
-bleed with applicable corner hiked up in the air
-98z28's wheel spin trick
-new copper crush washers all around
-bleed with car running

I fished a wire down in the booster and there's no fluid present (so old master did not leak), and I have pedal pressure, so there's no reason to believe there's a problem with the booster. Not sure if that check valve is good, maybe I'll just replace it to be safe.

Im so tired of the soft pedal...my wifes maxima feels great in comparison, and it used to feel like puke compared to my V .

demang

iTrader: (3)

Any updates from anyone on this?

Lbar

Just and FYI for anyone in the future who finds this thread. I had the same problem as some of these people and bleeding with a Motive Pressure Bleeder and 2.5quarts of fluid solved my problem. My brakes at dead on now.