B_ROCKS_IT

So wheel hop came up in the hard to invest in a V1 thread, and brought up that even though I still have stock rear and axles, as soon as the car got boosted and made serious power, my wheel hop problems completely ended... not sure why other than the obvious that its powering through it...?


This has me thinking about the near future when I get the CS 8.8, CS does not say anything about their axles being antihop, apparently most reviewers say the hop goes away, a few say its still present, and a very few say that its worse?!?!

When I am getting ready to Drop $4k+ on this, its a little concerning... I am also wondering how much power it can actually take, and if there are options for beefing it up? I plan to be in the four digit power ranges within the end of the year...

I dont know if even outside of the price difference I would wanna go with the GF 9", I had spoken with a tech who had worked with the 9" and said that something with the geometry is off, that yeah it works, but its not ideal set up.

Hopefully these questions aren't specifically covered in the many other threads about the rear end...

Skidmarcx

The conversion should be more than sufficient for your numbers... I'd replace your outer axle stubs though... your main concern is securing the rear cradle to prevent oscillation... however you decide

B_ROCKS_IT

Thanks, what about wheel hop?

Skidmarcx

As for what I did... it may be a bit extreme for some, but it works 100%... I mounted a piece of 3/16" plate on each side of the car... bolted to the trailing arm point and welded to the body of the car rounded into the wheel well... holds that cradle tighter than any bushing ever will... cost me $20 and I can remove it all faster than replacing those damn cradle bushings if I ever decide it's necessary

B_ROCKS_IT

Sweet, any pictures?

And to confirm, your confident the CS 8.8 is good for launching with slicks and 800-1100whp?

Skidmarcx

I don't see why not... you're gonna want to roll it off the line anyways... I can tell you right now that clutch isn't gonna hold you should step up to a McLeod twin disc...

Here is a link to my pics
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...me-mounts.html

B_ROCKS_IT

I was gonna 2 step launch it at 4500...?

Yeah I know the clutch is temporary....

Skidmarcx

I'm not pro at racing... I can just tell you that in my case that my best launches are with a 4000RPM roll off... again I'm still learning to drive the car and my best 60' is 1.78... the times in my sig are with synthetic AMSOIL in the trans... which was truly hurting me... I thought it was me and I suck at shifting, but now that I switched to the Redline D4/MTL combo I'm confident next time at the track it'll be an 11.xx pass

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

B-rocks at the 1000hp mark, most companies warranties are void. That said, 1000hp wheel hop will destroy just about anything. With the before and after of the 8.8 wheel hop still existed for me. After I did the revshift cradle bushings wheel hop is almost non existent, but it still happens in wet conditions. So for yourself I would reccomend going with a solid cradle mount and dont mess with the bushings like was said earlier.

As for the 8.8 or 9", for me its money. There is a 2k price difference between the two, and I have seen no one break either in a V. Or break either anywhere that I have found yet. I know plenty of drag racers have done it (broke both kinds) but they did not post pictures or write stories about it online.

So basically what I'm trying to say is a 4000lbs car+1000hp+drag launch at 4k rpm or more=big $. Repeated beatings, somethign always breaks.

Also, after you beef up the rear, the cluitch is the next weakest point, then let says you put in a 1000 rxt twin disk then the trans will be the 1st to pop. and so the story goes on. Build it all up, spend a but load of money, and expect it to last forever while beating on it? Good luck!

runsfromdacops

i have the CS 8.8 and we make similar power.
the wheel hop is completely gone for me as well as that shity clunk from all the lash in the stock diff
the diff can take the power thats for sure, im putting almost 900hp to it with no sing of it giving up.

Skidmarcx

Whole different game when the car hooks on a sticky track...

VincentT

B_ROCKS, I like the power you're making, and I like the fun you're having. I don't want to damper your enthusiasm at all (not my intention here), especially because I'm planning on doing a really similar build to yours. I'm just wanting to give you a bit of my build philosophy and why. I plan on shoring up the engine before the drivetrain. Rods and valvetrain especially. I'm planning that way because if something in the engine breaks, you can pretty much lose the whole engine and have to fix things that would have been fine otherwise. If an axle breaks on you, it's just the axle; if a diff breaks, it's just the diff. No harm in reasearching stuff, but I would start with the engine.

That being said, can an LS6 block really take 1,000hp? That needs around 22-24 psi of boost doesn't it? A little off topic, I know.

Skidmarcx, do those plates affect the ride at all?

Skidmarcx

Only makes the ride more enjoyable IMO... My car is loud to begin with, so I could care less about road noise

B_ROCKS_IT

Thanks Vincent, I hear ya..

I guess its important to note, I do not intend to turn the boost up any higher that 13psi on the stock engine, and even at that, I am not having high hopes that it will last all year...

I will do a forged 427 build either next winter, or as soon as something on this stock LS2 goes... thats when I am turning up the boost and hitting 1000+

B_ROCKS_IT

I dont plan on making weekly passes all the time with hard launches and 9 second runs, but it would be nice to eventually get it built/dialed in to the low 10/ hi 9 point that I pull one off, and then can legitimately say that my mid-size Cadillac is a 9sec car...

to reiterate it, once I get it there, I wont be doing it every week, but if I know that it can hold together at the strip launching like that, then I shouldn't have much to worry about on the street.

acaringnihilist

Not sure if this has been asked but how wide of a drag radial are you going to fit back there?

Driveshaft Shop

The axles are made with the Anti-wheel hop design. we will warranty them

VincentT

Good idea to not go very high on the boost with 4 bolt/cyclinder heads. I didn't know you were planning a 7L. That is going to be a ton of fun in a V.

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

i still have horrible hop with my 8.8 kit. i also opted to get the outter cv's as im sick of breaking rear end stuff.. im also running the bmr bushings but im going to replace em with revshift cradle and trailing arm bushings when i have a chance. hoping to get rid of the hop.

im really very surprised you havent blown a cv or diff yet..(knock on wood)

Driveshaft Shop

The axles being different diameters will only get you so far, the real issue we believe is the cradle,mounts components mover around adding to it.