Originally Posted by Andringa

Thanks for the response Fuzzy, I just reread some of the discussion that I had skimmed over before, and it sounds like most people are able to get to very good results with the stock valving.

You made some comments about the Swift spring being "better". If I managed to get KW to swap a set of 850lb/in springs in place of normal rear springs, are you saying that I would still be better off spending the extra money on Swift springs?

Has anybody ever tried to get a vendor to setup a group buy from KW? Seeing how many people have the Belltechs listed with "Best Offer" on ebay leads me to believe that there is probably enough margin to get the cost down a bit.

Originally Posted by ninjlao

I just started recording the numbers to show you the difference between the Swift spring and Megans. but I have tested almost every single spring out there. Even the most popular spring company like eibach is off the rate by at least 25lbs.

I've tested everything from Eibach (race springs), Vogtland, Tanabe, Tein. The only company that comes close to the swift springs in accuracy was a company called Hipercoil which was off by 15lbs. But then again had a bunch of coils like the Megan spring.

I couldn't find one single company that has outperformed Swift springs in any categories that I have stated
-weight
-stroke
-spring rate accuracy

This is why I use Swift spring in every single coilover in every single car I own.

--by the way if anyone wants me to test out any spring just ship them to me and I will dyno it for you.

Originally Posted by ninjleo

Now I have tested time and time again, all sorts of different springs from all kinds of manufacturers. I am always pretty confident with the swift product. Now if I find a better product then I will back that, but so far to this day I have not found one.

Now Zerosum brought up a good point. What you claimed is the exact thing that splits the Swift springs apart from all the other spring manufacturer. Now lets say I were to get the most precise spring from Hiperco or Eibach and compared it with a Swift spring. On a spring dyno it will be very similar. The graph would probably look identical, but then if you were to physically use those springs and swap them out, to use back to back, It would be a night and day difference. You would immediately be able to tell which is Swift. The Swift will feel much more compliant, in fact its exactly what Zerosum said "the impacts are much better damped".

Originally Posted by Andringa

Very interesting information on the Swift springs in those posts. I can't help but notice that the information in both posts is coming from the same individual. I'm assuming that you looked into it deep enough to find out that "ninjlao" doesn't work directly for Swift?

I'll look around when I get a chance, but do you have a recommended source for the Swift springs?

Originally Posted by VeryWhiteDevil

well Fuzzy is banned on LS1Tech, so no more updates to threads in this forum anymore.

Originally Posted by philistine

My wife is jealous of the 'other woman' I give so much attention to. She always finds something wrong so I was surprised when she said it finally rides like a Cadillac. She was surprised on the handling, she knows how aggressive I can drive and enjoyed the ride.

Enough of that...I am still testing the Speedloader. I think I have a problem with my master cylinder. The shifters are all doing the same thing - notchy, so I can't blame the shifters. I can say that I find myself giving more effort to find 5th gear with the speedloader. I really can't give much feedback since I think I have a hydraulic issue. The stalk is higher than the Katech which I haven't exactly warmed up to.

Here is a pic of the cracked KW collar I mentioned.


junk...

Originally Posted by philistine

I changed the transmission fluid in 2012 with Red Line D4 ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid. I bled the clutch really good and even purchased a new OEM slave cylinder and installed that. I think I have the same problem a very few have with the hydraulics. It is not as pronounced but I think the clutch is not fully disengaging. I might do the Tick frankenstein bleeder to resolve it - would like a better write-up though. If things do not improve (it won't) I'll begin installing it in March and detail my own findings.

So I'll say it again, I cannot give any good feedback on shifters until I resolve my hydraulics issue. A simple comparison of the speedloader and Katech with the same issues I have with the hydraulics, is that the Katech has less vibrations. The speedloader locks into neutral with no hesitation, 1st and 3rd gear engagement are improved. 2nd and 4th are a bit of trouble and that's where I find myself with hydraulics issues. Very similar with the Katech so I'm the wrong one to give a review with shifters at this time.

Originally Posted by 54inches

How did the MC help?

Originally Posted by 54inches

I'll wait for his reply here.....

Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c

Hey Serik--I'm still loving the 672/896 Swift spring setup. However, if you're a less aggressive driver, with conservative ride height, and comfort is of vital importance, you should be able to get away with the stock 514 in-lb front springs and either 784 or 896 in-lb 9" Swift springs. Not saying my setup is uncomfortable in the slightest--it's just not your stereotypical Cadillac ride.

Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c

Again, if you try to copy my configuration, you may not like the results. My front spring rate, for instance, only produces an optimal wheel rate once you add 150-250 pounds of equipment to the nose of the car. I went ahead and installed these springs because I anticipate replacing my engine with an iron 427 LSX (+100 lbs) and an intercooled supercharger (+150 lbs).

I'm not trying to be coy or difficult. I simply don't want to recommend a generalized solution that will probably not work for everyone. If you wanted a "safe" configuration that provided moderate improvements for all users, it would be the KW Variant 3 kit with Z60-228-140 Swift springs in the rear and the Hotchkis HSS-2280 sway bar kit. The whole thing will cost you $2500 if you know where to shop.

The downside is that you'll have to tune the rear suspension yourself and you may eventually need to drop another couple hundred dollars on springs and replace the sway bars with Addco bars as your car and your needs develop.

Originally Posted by 54inches

I have read over this before and after seeing some errors in his calculations and specs, I thought I would post this here:



Makes much more sense.....

Weight Distribution is 53/47; ft corner weight = 1060; rr corner weight = 940, based on a 4000 lb vehicle.(3800+200lbs driver; for me)

You will have to determine these figures along with others; just using my example with arbitrary values.