Wear items in steering
#1
Wear items in steering
I just replaced my outer tie rods and had it realigned and it fixed a lot of my lane drifting problem. However, it still doesn't feel right. I know my front tires are shot, but even at lower speeds the steering still doesn't feel like it should. Aside from tie rods, what other wearable items are there?
I've considered the steering rack, but I didn't think it would add to sloppiness.
Thoughts?
I've considered the steering rack, but I didn't think it would add to sloppiness.
Thoughts?
#2
Don't underestimate the effect of a great, aggressive alignment. You may have gotten your car "aligned," but unless you can show me the datasheet and the cross camber/caster/toe, I'll continue to suspect the alignment. The stock settings are junk.
#5
We have inner tie rods?
I understand an alignment can improve handling characteristics, but the stock setting should at least inspire some confidence. I think my problem lies more in worn parts.
I haven't replaced my tires yet because I'd like to get the worn parts replaced before I put a fresh set of tires on. I guess I'm forgetting about ball joints and control arm bushings. As far as I can tell, the tie rods connect straight to the steering rack (I should know this, I replaced them last week). Aside from that I guess replacing control arms is the next best thing along with some sway bar bushings.
One of the struts has been replaced recently. I'm assuming the other is original, but it's still holding up at 117k.
I understand an alignment can improve handling characteristics, but the stock setting should at least inspire some confidence. I think my problem lies more in worn parts.
I haven't replaced my tires yet because I'd like to get the worn parts replaced before I put a fresh set of tires on. I guess I'm forgetting about ball joints and control arm bushings. As far as I can tell, the tie rods connect straight to the steering rack (I should know this, I replaced them last week). Aside from that I guess replacing control arms is the next best thing along with some sway bar bushings.
One of the struts has been replaced recently. I'm assuming the other is original, but it's still holding up at 117k.
#6
TECH Fanatic
If the outer tie rod ends were actually bad, the inners may be bad as well. You have to remove the rack boots to replace them and *may* need a special tool (IIRC the CTS rack should be fairly easy to get to). It's an easy job in all honesty.
In my experience, control arm bushing let go long before ball joints do (on just about every GM platform) and ball joints will have noticable movement. Easy way to check is to jack ONE front wheel up, and check for play (side/side, up/down, etc) as this will present lash in either side since the other wheel is immobile.
I agree with Fuzzy that the OE alignemnt specs can be improved upon, usually at the cost of increased wear, however. If you're actually fixing the front end, go ahead and get new tires. Bad tires can lead you to believe that you have problem that you do not, or mask other problems. New tires will not wear before the front end is fixed unless you are careless and allow them to.
In my experience, control arm bushing let go long before ball joints do (on just about every GM platform) and ball joints will have noticable movement. Easy way to check is to jack ONE front wheel up, and check for play (side/side, up/down, etc) as this will present lash in either side since the other wheel is immobile.
I agree with Fuzzy that the OE alignemnt specs can be improved upon, usually at the cost of increased wear, however. If you're actually fixing the front end, go ahead and get new tires. Bad tires can lead you to believe that you have problem that you do not, or mask other problems. New tires will not wear before the front end is fixed unless you are careless and allow them to.
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#8
Hey Bud,
Did your inner tie rod have an issue and/or you get your steering where it needs to be?
Asking because I came across this thread doing a search. I've got some serious "wiggle" when driving that I thought a long overdue alignment would cure. Alignment helped but still have the problem.
Mine V will randomly dart from side to side as if a major wind is blowing. Can be down right scary sometimes and don't want to go past 60mph.
Was hoping others had similar issue and found the fix. Looks like I'll be checking every bushing (probably just replace with new revshift/creative steel anyway) and pray it's not rack and pinion issue. Anyone heard of possibly a bad steering knuckle bushing?
~Birdmantamu
Did your inner tie rod have an issue and/or you get your steering where it needs to be?
Asking because I came across this thread doing a search. I've got some serious "wiggle" when driving that I thought a long overdue alignment would cure. Alignment helped but still have the problem.
Mine V will randomly dart from side to side as if a major wind is blowing. Can be down right scary sometimes and don't want to go past 60mph.
Was hoping others had similar issue and found the fix. Looks like I'll be checking every bushing (probably just replace with new revshift/creative steel anyway) and pray it's not rack and pinion issue. Anyone heard of possibly a bad steering knuckle bushing?
~Birdmantamu
#9
I ended up replacing my inner tie rods along with sway bar bushings and end links. After the alignment the car felt much better. I'm sure control arm bushings would have made it feel even better, but I wanted it back on the road and didn't feel like messing with pressing bushings out/in.
As for poly bushings in control arms, I would stay FAR away from that unless you want your ride to squeak like a late 90's ford explorer with 250k on it. A fresh set of rubber bushings will do you just fine unless you're building a track car that rarely sees street use.
As for poly bushings in control arms, I would stay FAR away from that unless you want your ride to squeak like a late 90's ford explorer with 250k on it. A fresh set of rubber bushings will do you just fine unless you're building a track car that rarely sees street use.
#10
Yeah, I hear you on the poly bushings. I've got the diff bushing (because it's a must) and it sings a little even with a fully dynamatted trunk and rear seat area. But it was nothing like when I had the spectre werks cradle bushings. They didn't stop the wheel hop and the noise was horrendous.
I'll probably hold off until there's more reviews from those that have done full poly UCA/LCA swaps. It's not a DD anymore but I don't want ridiculous road noise either. That would detract from the glorious exhaust tone.
Anywayz...off to check for something loose.
I'll probably hold off until there's more reviews from those that have done full poly UCA/LCA swaps. It's not a DD anymore but I don't want ridiculous road noise either. That would detract from the glorious exhaust tone.
Anywayz...off to check for something loose.
#11
Yeah, I hear you on the poly bushings. I've got the diff bushing (because it's a must) and it sings a little even with a fully dynamatted trunk and rear seat area. But it was nothing like when I had the spectre werks cradle bushings. They didn't stop the wheel hop and the noise was horrendous.
I'll probably hold off until there's more reviews from those that have done full poly UCA/LCA swaps. It's not a DD anymore but I don't want ridiculous road noise either. That would detract from the glorious exhaust tone.
Anywayz...off to check for something loose.
I'll probably hold off until there's more reviews from those that have done full poly UCA/LCA swaps. It's not a DD anymore but I don't want ridiculous road noise either. That would detract from the glorious exhaust tone.
Anywayz...off to check for something loose.