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Old 09-16-2013, 06:02 AM   #1
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Default About to install LS7, Revshift diff/mounts

I ordered a F1 clutch on ebay with the 20lb flywheel kit along with arp bolts, revshift mounts, tranns insert diff mount with cs block.

I have read the various write ups and other threads and want to say thanks a lot to everyone. Gonna attack the job this week with a friend and I think we are ready to go. I know most recommend a shifter but there is a wait on pissn(??) shifter and I don't wanna wait. Probably will regret it later but the vibration in my car is pretty bad.

I do have one question though, will the moster remote bleeder work on the ls7 slave? or do I need to get the camaro tick for 30 more?
http://www.monsterclutches.com/shop/...svbleeder.html

Also I found lots of threads about super blue brake fluid but that doesn't seem available anymore? What is everyone using for brake/clutch fluid

Last edited by TeamSorad; 09-16-2013 at 09:02 AM..
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:45 AM   #2
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ATE Type200 is the same stuff just without the blue dye. The blue was always just a novelty for the bleeding process but was known to stain some brake and clutch line/res assemblies depending on manufacturer. If you want to stick with an ATE product just get Type200.

I have run Motul RBF600 in everything since I switched to it on my old track M3 a few years back. Everyones brand preference is different.
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:52 AM   #3
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I don't have a preference (no knowledge) and will probably just go with what is cheaper on amazon with prime. Any idea how much I need to do the brakes and clutch?

any input on the different remote bleeders? monster will work for cheaper?
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:58 AM   #4
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I have a F1 flywheel and LS7 clutch setup; USE REPLACEMENT OEM BOLTS from the pressure plate to the flywheel. ARP studs DO NOT work. I had my transmission apart 3 times before that issue was discovered.

Also, I highly discourage running your remote bleeder up into the engine bay. Once bled, coil it up and zip-tie it to your transmission, mine got scorched and cracked due to it being too close to the cat.

Lastly, buy this before you think you can do it any other way.

Motive Products 101 Brake System Power Bleeder : Amazon.com : Automotive Motive Products 101 Brake System Power Bleeder : Amazon.com : Automotive

I bought the one with the GM fitting, but it isn't particularly designed to work on the slave cyl--I ended up just jamming mine on there anyway, so the universal should probably work fine and be about $15 cheaper.
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:23 AM   #5
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Op, i use Amsoil series 500 brake fluid, no complaints, holds up well over time

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I have a F1 flywheel and LS7 clutch setup; USE REPLACEMENT OEM BOLTS from the pressure plate to the flywheel. ARP studs DO NOT work. I had my transmission apart 3 times before that issue was discovered. .
How is the clutch engagement point compared to stock.. I have read a few mixed reviews as far as the engagement point being to close to the floor.
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:52 AM   #6
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Quote:
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Op, i use Amsoil series 500 brake fluid, no complaints, holds up well over time



How is the clutch engagement point compared to stock.. I have read a few mixed reviews as far as the engagement point being to close to the floor.

It's gotten a little better, but it definitely engages close to the floor.
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Old 09-16-2013, 06:38 PM   #7
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this is the first I heard of the arp bolts not working, every other thread said to get the arp bolts? Is the f1 clutch different then other ls7 clutches? I have read threads about over torque causing problems. Not saying you are wrong dark but would like to get some more info.

Also still can't figure out what bleeders will work
http://www.monsterclutches.com/shop/...leeder&x=0&y=0

Last edited by TeamSorad; 09-16-2013 at 06:47 PM..
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:23 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamSorad View Post
this is the first I heard of the arp bolts not working, every other thread said to get the arp bolts? Is the f1 clutch different then other ls7 clutches? I have read threads about over torque causing problems. Not saying you are wrong dark but would like to get some more info.

Also still can't figure out what bleeders will work
http://www.monsterclutches.com/shop/...leeder&x=0&y=0

Look at the head of your OEM bolt, then the new ARP bolt. The OEM is rounded, the ARP is flat off with threads to the top. Due to the lack of bevel, it doesn't snug down into the F1 Racing flywheel 100%. I called Gripforce (where I had bought the kit) and they echoed my suspicions, that OEM bolts would be needed to work right.

Here's some pics of what mine looked like torqued at 52ft-lbs with ARP's.

Click the image to open in full size.

Notice the gap? It was about 1mm worth. Could slip a piece of paper in that gap.
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:25 PM   #9
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Just trust me on this one. I had my car down for a month while I chased other potential problems and waited on parts, because I just couldn't believe that the ARPs would be the problem. I threw the right bolts in there and drove it home that night.
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:54 PM   #10
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Also, do not install the trans mount unless you KNOW your motor mounts are GOOD.

Even then, I would wait and get the motor mounts and install at the same time.

Get the Tick speed bleeder for the 5th gen Camaro; the one they sell for the V will work, but I have seen too many people not be able to figure it out, so just go with the 5th gen Camaro one.....

See sig and let me know if you have any questions as I have a buld thread on here with pics and if you need some phone help, you can call.

Where are you from; update your profile.
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Old 09-17-2013, 12:24 AM   #11
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Thanks Dark and 54, I updated my profile I'm in Seattle.
I have both the revshift mounts and tranns mount, so I will be installing the motor mounts, tranns insert and diff mount/block at the same time as the clutch



Here are the bolts I ordered, I haven't looked at the oem bolts (still in car obv)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400444165449...84.m1439.l2649

Last edited by TeamSorad; 09-17-2013 at 12:51 AM..
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Old 09-17-2013, 04:36 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamSorad View Post
Thanks Dark and 54, I updated my profile I'm in Seattle.
I have both the revshift mounts and tranns mount, so I will be installing the motor mounts, tranns insert and diff mount/block at the same time as the clutch



Here are the bolts I ordered, I haven't looked at the oem bolts (still in car obv)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400444165449...84.m1439.l2649
Hey man, I'm moving to Seattle next month. I'm actually here visiting now and saw an extremely clean redline V while driving around the other day. Was that you?
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Old 09-17-2013, 05:05 AM   #13
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nope black 04 for me
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:47 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkCharisma View Post
Look at the head of your OEM bolt, then the new ARP bolt. The OEM is rounded, the ARP is flat off with threads to the top. Due to the lack of bevel, it doesn't snug down into the F1 Racing flywheel 100%. I called Gripforce (where I had bought the kit) and they echoed my suspicions, that OEM bolts would be needed to work right.

Here's some pics of what mine looked like torqued at 52ft-lbs with ARP's.

Click the image to open in full size.

Notice the gap? It was about 1mm worth. Could slip a piece of paper in that gap.
Hmmm...Thats interesting. I've never heard of this problem. I've had my ARP Pressure plat bolts in for about months, and nary a problem.
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:17 AM   #15
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Hmmm...Thats interesting. I've never heard of this problem. I've had my ARP Pressure plat bolts in for about months, and nary a problem.
Best I can gather it only affects certain flywheels, the F1 fw I got in my "kit" included.
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:28 PM   #16
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Best I can gather it only affects certain flywheels, the F1 fw I got in my "kit" included.
Funny thing is I'm probably using the same F1 Flywheel you have. I ordered their "multi-friction" package with the flywheel, PP, disc, and slave.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/F1-MF-RACE-C...ec2486&vxp=mtr

I used my own ARP pressure plate bolts (134-2201) and ARP flywheel bolts. You are making me want to tear this thing back apart just to check lol. I do know for a fact that the pressure plate is flat against the flywheel though.
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:56 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GA95DCMSS View Post
Funny thing is I'm probably using the same F1 Flywheel you have. I ordered their "multi-friction" package with the flywheel, PP, disc, and slave.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/F1-MF-RACE-C...ec2486&vxp=mtr

I used my own ARP pressure plate bolts (134-2201) and ARP flywheel bolts. You are making me want to tear this thing back apart just to check lol. I do know for a fact that the pressure plate is flat against the flywheel though.

It wouldn't have even disengaged if it was like how mine was. That's why I took it back apart so many times. If yours is working I am sure you don't have the same problem, heh. I had the same bolts that everyone else used.
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:29 PM   #18
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It wouldn't have even disengaged if it was like how mine was. That's why I took it back apart so many times. If yours is working I am sure you don't have the same problem, heh. I had the same bolts that everyone else used.
Well initially I had that problem. Then I followed a set of instructions someone sent me. Instead of torquing the pressure plate down to 48-52lbft, tighten the pressure plate bolts in a criss cross pattern until the pressure plate is flat against the flywheel THEN torque to 48-52 lbft. Just a stupid brainfart that I had that caused me hell for a couple of days.
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:53 PM   #19
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how do you like the mf disk, I almost went with that but couldn't find any reviews on it?

So I just went with the stage 1 f1 kit which just appears to be a luk clutch, I am gonna post some pics to this thread later and prolly some pics of the install
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:13 PM   #20
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how do you like the mf disk, I almost went with that but couldn't find any reviews on it?

So I just went with the stage 1 f1 kit which just appears to be a luk clutch, I am gonna post some pics to this thread later and prolly some pics of the install
Its actually not bad. I haven't done any 1/4 mile racing, and don't plan to. This is just my DD, but believe me, I either drive it like I stole it, or I granny shift and chug around town in an attempt to save fuel. I'm really thinking about pulling the trans again and retorquing everything because it engages pretty high in the pedal travel. I prefer it to engage lower (just personal preference). I may go to the Stage 3 disc just to try it out.
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