What trans fluid should I use?
#61
Misdiagnosis. You need to bleed your clutch. I've been using this mixture for the past three winters, in temperatures down to zero with nothing I would describe as "really a chore." At worst, the first shift is sticky because the synchros are dealing with a thick mixture, but after a minute or so, things are excellent.
#62
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Misdiagnosis. You need to bleed your clutch. I've been using this mixture for the past three winters, in temperatures down to zero with nothing I would describe as "really a chore." At worst, the first shift is sticky because the synchros are dealing with a thick mixture, but after a minute or so, things are excellent.
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So, why the magic blend of Redline fluids, and not just the D4 ATF that Redline's Application Guide says we should use? (Interestingly enough, their Application Guide specs D4ATF, rather than D6 ATF, even for the 2007 V, despite folks saying that by then GM had changed the spec to D-VI rather than D-III.)
Edit: I did find this comment in Redline's fact sheet about MTL and MT90: "In transmissions which recommend Dexron or Mercon fluids we recommend our D4 ATF which is very similar to the MTL, being a GL-4 Gear Oil also. The D4 ATF will provide better low-temperature shiftability, and the MTL would provide better wear protection for racing use."
I'm pretty sure I have Eneos ATF in mine now, but it's due to be changed. Eneos isn't a terribly common brand, but I learned of them through the Subaru world.
Edit: I did find this comment in Redline's fact sheet about MTL and MT90: "In transmissions which recommend Dexron or Mercon fluids we recommend our D4 ATF which is very similar to the MTL, being a GL-4 Gear Oil also. The D4 ATF will provide better low-temperature shiftability, and the MTL would provide better wear protection for racing use."
I'm pretty sure I have Eneos ATF in mine now, but it's due to be changed. Eneos isn't a terribly common brand, but I learned of them through the Subaru world.
Last edited by AAIIIC; 12-12-2013 at 09:51 AM.
#65
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Before going with the 3/1 redline mix I called them and talked to a guy there. He said it was basically fine to mix them. He said the MTL is actually quite similar but a bit thicker with more protection, with the downside of reduced driveability in cold weather. I haven't had any issues down to the mid-20s. It shifts just fine very similar to the D3 I replaced. A little pushback out of 2nd gear when I am shifting happened a couple times before I engaged the clutch again. Trany temp was 30 degrees. Not an issue. Have not had any of the issues FWeasel stated but he has seen colder temps than me.
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I'll rarely see 20s where I am, so I shouldn't have any issues if you're not. I don't know that I really need to do the mix rather than straight D4 ATF, but if Redline says it's OK, I suppose it can't hurt.
#67
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I know this an old thread...had some questions. I did the redline cocktail and the trans shifts smooth with no problems, however, I can smell the fluid in the cabin of the car after it gets really warm. Is anyone experiencing this? Is this normal and that it will subside after awhile? The smell is really terrible inside the cabin of the vehicle. Thanks
#68
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I know this an old thread...had some questions. I did the redline cocktail and the trans shifts smooth with no problems, however, I can smell the fluid in the cabin of the car after it gets really warm. Is anyone experiencing this? Is this normal and that it will subside after awhile? The smell is really terrible inside the cabin of the vehicle. Thanks
#69
#70
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what trans fluid should I use
OK then. Ill wait and see if it subsides. I filled the trans from the top stick shift since I had removed the trans to replace my slave cylinder. Poured in the fluid until it dripped out the side fill hole. So it shouldn't be that much overfilled, I don't think. Thanks for the quick response folks.
#71
Also, I do drive the car year round. Will the mixture work in really cold temps, say -22 Fahrenheit?
Appreciate the help!
Last edited by SashafromTO; 06-29-2016 at 08:59 AM.
#72
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My answer to that is no. When it is cold out you will need to drain it and run regular atf.
The mixture works good but it can be hard on the trans. You need to let it warm up (car running input shaft spinning). I won't run that mix on the street again. I will run it for track days, but that is about all.
The mixture works good but it can be hard on the trans. You need to let it warm up (car running input shaft spinning). I won't run that mix on the street again. I will run it for track days, but that is about all.
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My answer to that is no. When it is cold out you will need to drain it and run regular atf.
The mixture works good but it can be hard on the trans. You need to let it warm up (car running input shaft spinning). I won't run that mix on the street again. I will run it for track days, but that is about all.
The mixture works good but it can be hard on the trans. You need to let it warm up (car running input shaft spinning). I won't run that mix on the street again. I will run it for track days, but that is about all.
#74
My answer to that is no. When it is cold out you will need to drain it and run regular atf.
The mixture works good but it can be hard on the trans. You need to let it warm up (car running input shaft spinning). I won't run that mix on the street again. I will run it for track days, but that is about all.
The mixture works good but it can be hard on the trans. You need to let it warm up (car running input shaft spinning). I won't run that mix on the street again. I will run it for track days, but that is about all.
#75
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The mix works great. I know that to be true. But IMO it is too hard on the trans internals unless it is warmed and thinned out.
So I stand by my original statement. For 100 degree Texas track days I will run it. But that is all.
#76
Nik, I'm curious--which brand of ATF did you use? I switched to Mobil 1 ATF at about 12,000 miles and it sounded awful. I'm trying (and failing) to remember the guy's name now, but there was this very talented (but controversial) dude (Shane?) at Thunder Racing that drag raced his V1 and turned me onto the Redline mixture (I was buying a cam and we got talking).
If I recall correctly, the mixture was a tried-and-true formula passed down to him by older drag racers in his area. The increased viscosity is tuned to help the synchros to do their thing. Of course, the downside is that you can't redline the transmission with the thicker mix directly after a cold start, but you wouldn't do that anyway because the engine is vulnerable to the same thing.
If I recall correctly, the mixture was a tried-and-true formula passed down to him by older drag racers in his area. The increased viscosity is tuned to help the synchros to do their thing. Of course, the downside is that you can't redline the transmission with the thicker mix directly after a cold start, but you wouldn't do that anyway because the engine is vulnerable to the same thing.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 06-30-2016 at 12:55 PM.
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To bring this back from the dead yet again, I changed over to Mobil 1 about 2000 miles ago. My experience is not noise. Instead it is really hard to engage gears, particularly 4th on the 3>4 upshift, and somewhat on 5>6 and 1>2 though not nearly as bad as 3>4. No grinding or anything, just like hitting a brick wall when you try to upshift into 4th. I have to shift with purpose. If I'm remotely lazy, it's not interested unless I give it a double or triple nudge.
At a stop with the clutch depressed, it shifts like butter. So what gives? I know the hydraulics are in decent shape, and this started happening shortly after I switched to Mobil 1. It feels like the sleeve/collar doesn't want to engage the blocker rings and dogs, but I don't see how a different (approved) fluid can make that big of a difference.
Thoughts? Is the friction reduced such that the blockers don't want to engage the next gear, or are my synchro assemblies on the way out and the fluid change upset the apple cart just enough to somehow push them over the edge?
I think I'm going to try Redline D4 or non-synthetic Dexron III and see if it makes it go away. Much cheaper than the alternative. Otherwise, I already have the tranny on my to-do list at some point to handle the upcoming power infusion.
Interested in your opinions, fellas.
At a stop with the clutch depressed, it shifts like butter. So what gives? I know the hydraulics are in decent shape, and this started happening shortly after I switched to Mobil 1. It feels like the sleeve/collar doesn't want to engage the blocker rings and dogs, but I don't see how a different (approved) fluid can make that big of a difference.
Thoughts? Is the friction reduced such that the blockers don't want to engage the next gear, or are my synchro assemblies on the way out and the fluid change upset the apple cart just enough to somehow push them over the edge?
I think I'm going to try Redline D4 or non-synthetic Dexron III and see if it makes it go away. Much cheaper than the alternative. Otherwise, I already have the tranny on my to-do list at some point to handle the upcoming power infusion.
Interested in your opinions, fellas.