Installing new balancer, can I seat it with the new bolt?
#1
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Installing new balancer, can I seat it with the new bolt?
I bought one of the ARP bolts (which came without moly lube), can I use this to seat the balancer on the crank snout?
Also since it didn't come with any moly lube, should I just use red loctite? What tq setting?
Also since it didn't come with any moly lube, should I just use red loctite? What tq setting?
#2
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I wouldn't advise it, the arp bolt is not that much longer than the stock bolt. I don't think you would even get it to engage without forcing the balancer on somehow which is a bad idea. If you insist on using a bolt instead of a dedicated tool then at least get a longer 16mm x 2 bolt. The problem, which you probably are fully aware of but worth repeating, with installing it using a bolt is all the stress is on just a few crank threads when you first start to press it on. When you use a tool all crank threads are engaged so there is less risk of the worst case situation which is stripping crank threads. I just did this project and the hawk ls tool is worth the money imo.
#3
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cospeed is running a group buy on the hawk install tool - https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-g...n-tool-gp.html
I ordered over the weekend and received it Wednesday.
I ordered over the weekend and received it Wednesday.
#4
On The Tree
YMMV but I was able to use the bolt. I got an installation tool from the FLAPS but it didn't reach the threads (as anticipated).
The bolt went in about 1/2 thread cold, but after heating to 200F for an hour or so, and *gently* tapping the hub with a rubber mallet, I got three threads' engagement. It slid on pretty easily from there.
Strange you didn't get the lube - is it a used bolt? I imagine some light grease on both sides of the washer will suffice. Red loctite on the threads, for sure.
The bolt went in about 1/2 thread cold, but after heating to 200F for an hour or so, and *gently* tapping the hub with a rubber mallet, I got three threads' engagement. It slid on pretty easily from there.
Strange you didn't get the lube - is it a used bolt? I imagine some light grease on both sides of the washer will suffice. Red loctite on the threads, for sure.
#5
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Can’t you just go to the hardware store and get a longer bolt to pull it on? Just make sure you have 1.5 times thread engagement when you start pulling the balancer on. Then after it seats an inch deep, switch to the ARP bolt? Maybe someone will lend you’re their tool? Paypal them whatever the replacement price is plus shipping, then send it back and they refund your money minus shipping?
#7
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I wouldn't advise it, the arp bolt is not that much longer than the stock bolt. I don't think you would even get it to engage without forcing the balancer on somehow which is a bad idea. If you insist on using a bolt instead of a dedicated tool then at least get a longer 16mm x 2 bolt. The problem, which you probably are fully aware of but worth repeating, with installing it using a bolt is all the stress is on just a few crank threads when you first start to press it on. When you use a tool all crank threads are engaged so there is less risk of the worst case situation which is stripping crank threads. I just did this project and the hawk ls tool is worth the money imo.
lollygagger recommended Fastenal Bolt #40768 (M16 -2.0 pitch x 120mm long) in his post: https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...l-writeup.html
Yeah, I share the same concern. It would be *highly* inconvenient to have to tow my car to a shop to have them fix the threads. The long and strong bolt (oh baby) sounds like a good idea. I'd feel comfortable with it if I got a couple inches of engagement before running it on.
Unfortunately I started removing the old balancer before I realized, ****, I don't have a way to put this new one back on.
YMMV but I was able to use the bolt. The bolt went in about 1/2 thread cold, but after heating to 200F for an hour or so, and *gently* tapping the hub with a rubber mallet, I got three threads' engagement. It slid on pretty easily from there.
Strange you didn't get the lube - is it a used bolt? I imagine some light grease on both sides of the washer will suffice. Red loctite on the threads, for sure.
Strange you didn't get the lube - is it a used bolt? I imagine some light grease on both sides of the washer will suffice. Red loctite on the threads, for sure.
No, it's a new bolt, ordered it from Amazon, ARP p/n 2342503. Came blister-packed on the ARP cardboard and all, bolt and washer only. Wonder what I should torque it to without the lube? :dunno: I've seen suggestions from 150ft-lbs all the way to 240ft-lbs...
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#8
On The Tree
There was a slip of paper in mine that said 235#. I went to 242# because I like the number.
The 150# is if your balancer is pinned/keyed.
#10
TECH Regular
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I used a bit of thread-all, a couple nuts, a fatty washer and bearing to use as an install tool. I boiled the new balancer for 15-20 minutes, and used my homebuilt install tool, and she went on without any drama. Torqued the ARP bolt to 235ft-lbs with red loctite. Hopefully that'll hold... Car idles much smoother now, and is especially a lot smoother at 2000rpm.
#11
On The Tree
Don't recall specifically. IIRC I ran across that spec in another thread or two. I didn't pin it, so I didn't pay real close attention. Don't quote me on it, in other words!
Smooth*ER* or smooth period? I ask because I never noticed a vibration at 2K (never noticed a smoothness either though) but feel it now with the new balancer. It's not bad at all, but hoping to confirm that a vibration at 2K is to be expected.
Smooth*ER* or smooth period? I ask because I never noticed a vibration at 2K (never noticed a smoothness either though) but feel it now with the new balancer. It's not bad at all, but hoping to confirm that a vibration at 2K is to be expected.
#12
CTS-V Shifter Sales
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Only about 1/2" of threads of an M16 bolt hold all the clamping force. Threading your tool/ bolt any further than 6 threads is overkill when pulling the balancer on. Since the first 6 threads hold 235 ft-lbs of bolt head torque (about 90 ft-lbs are actually held by the threads), I have no worries pulling a balancer on with a minimum of 2-3 threads engaged on the bolt to start.
#13
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Don't recall specifically. IIRC I ran across that spec in another thread or two. I didn't pin it, so I didn't pay real close attention. Don't quote me on it, in other words!
Smooth*ER* or smooth period? I ask because I never noticed a vibration at 2K (never noticed a smoothness either though) but feel it now with the new balancer. It's not bad at all, but hoping to confirm that a vibration at 2K is to be expected.
Smooth*ER* or smooth period? I ask because I never noticed a vibration at 2K (never noticed a smoothness either though) but feel it now with the new balancer. It's not bad at all, but hoping to confirm that a vibration at 2K is to be expected.
Smooth[er]. I still think my flywheel needs to be balanced.
#14
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Balancer Bolt ARP 234-2503:
I intend to pin it and follow the ARP guidelines.