McLeod RXT Clutch - My Experience
12-02-2013, 10:42 PM
#22
If the clutch isn't disengaging all the way try to follow these steps:
1. Properly bleed
2. Check the stack-up (clearance)
If it still isn't disengaging all the way, then:
3. Change the slave cylinder
4. Change the master cylinder
If after that, if it still isn't disengaging all the way:
5. Check for damaged disk material
6. Check for a bent disk
7. ...and finally, defective pressure plate
Sounds like you checked your clearances pretty good - I tried it once with a machinist ruler - bad idea but it's not easy to do when you are on your back. I then took my time and used a Starrett No 440 0-6 depth micrometer and nailed it. In my case it was just a sanity check and the clearances were good - way off using a machinist ruler though.
If you can 100% verify it isn't your hydraulics, stack up, or installation then I think they should warranty it. These cars don't come with the most robust master cylinders - can't rule it out.
I don't have any personal experience with the McLeod RXT but a local speedshop does and basically said they use them on Corvette big HP builds and don't recommend them for street builds - tendency to chatter, touchy clutch pedal. For street builds - McLeod RST or LS9x/R
Hope you get it worked out.
1. Properly bleed
2. Check the stack-up (clearance)
If it still isn't disengaging all the way, then:
3. Change the slave cylinder
4. Change the master cylinder
If after that, if it still isn't disengaging all the way:
5. Check for damaged disk material
6. Check for a bent disk
7. ...and finally, defective pressure plate
Sounds like you checked your clearances pretty good - I tried it once with a machinist ruler - bad idea but it's not easy to do when you are on your back. I then took my time and used a Starrett No 440 0-6 depth micrometer and nailed it. In my case it was just a sanity check and the clearances were good - way off using a machinist ruler though.
If you can 100% verify it isn't your hydraulics, stack up, or installation then I think they should warranty it. These cars don't come with the most robust master cylinders - can't rule it out.
I don't have any personal experience with the McLeod RXT but a local speedshop does and basically said they use them on Corvette big HP builds and don't recommend them for street builds - tendency to chatter, touchy clutch pedal. For street builds - McLeod RST or LS9x/R
Hope you get it worked out.
12-03-2013, 08:43 AM
#23
I don't have any personal experience with the McLeod RXT but a local speedshop does and basically said they use them on Corvette big HP builds and don't recommend them for street builds - tendency to chatter, touchy clutch pedal. For street builds - McLeod RST or LS9x/R
Hope you get it worked out.
12-03-2013, 09:01 AM
#24
12-04-2013, 05:08 AM
#27
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Mine chatters as well, sounds like a turkey call. I have similar issues like yours, the break in was correct, a reputable shop installed it, and the flywheel, clutch, and m/c are new. Might try the monster with tilton next.
12-04-2013, 12:57 PM
#29
Im not changing my mind based on just one review. But since this thread I have researched it more and the rxt is more than what I need. My end goal in a couple years is 800 at the wheels. Which the rst should handle on the street just fine. And the reviews for street cars seem to be more in favor of the rst. If my goal was to go up to 1k hp then I would stay with the rxt. But I hate chatter. My monster stage 3 chatters bad and I cant stand it.
12-04-2013, 11:57 PM
#30
Im not changing my mind based on just one review. But since this thread I have researched it more and the rxt is more than what I need. My end goal in a couple years is 800 at the wheels. Which the rst should handle on the street just fine. And the reviews for street cars seem to be more in favor of the rst. If my goal was to go up to 1k hp then I would stay with the rxt. But I hate chatter. My monster stage 3 chatters bad and I cant stand it.
12-05-2013, 11:34 AM
#32
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Just wanted to say thanks to everyone, especially to the guy that PM'd me the
Pres of McLeod contact info. I understand most perform very well, however it's what is done when they do not that really matters to me. I would not hesitate to keep it if it can be made like everyone
Pres of McLeod contact info. I understand most perform very well, however it's what is done when they do not that really matters to me. I would not hesitate to keep it if it can be made like everyone
02-05-2014, 08:32 AM
#33
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Just wanted to say thanks to everyone, especially to the guy that PM'd me the
Pres of McLeod contact info. I understand most perform very well, however it's what is done when they do not that really matters to me. I would not hesitate to keep it if it can be made like everyone
Pres of McLeod contact info. I understand most perform very well, however it's what is done when they do not that really matters to me. I would not hesitate to keep it if it can be made like everyone
Anything ever come from this?
02-05-2014, 10:35 AM
#35
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I am going to have the flywheel stone turned and re-evaluate the situation. From my perspective, McLeod is less than willing to assist with anything. All I can say is never again. Truth be told, the RXT is more than we will ever need so the RST may be better suited. Anyhow, being out of town, the holidays, selling my house this spring and getting my daughter off to college next fall will likely keep me occupied for a bit.
Ironically enough, I caught up with forum member "Nola G" at the DC Autoshow weekend before last and met some of his friends, one of which has a nasty Cobra. He said he had an RXT and echoed the same numb engagement but said his only chattered in reverse, but did so violently. He later did an auto swap and was done with it. Funny thing, mine chatters violently in forward gears and is perfect in reverse. Weird.
While most of their products may perform flawlessly, it's what a vendor or manufacturer does when there is a problem that defines how good/bad they actually are (in my mind anyhow). To this point, they have denied there is a problem, stated the wear I have is normal (which it clearly is NOT based on others who have them as well), and that they can rebuild my brand new clutch for a few hundred $$$ if problems persist. As I said, never again.
Ironically enough, I caught up with forum member "Nola G" at the DC Autoshow weekend before last and met some of his friends, one of which has a nasty Cobra. He said he had an RXT and echoed the same numb engagement but said his only chattered in reverse, but did so violently. He later did an auto swap and was done with it. Funny thing, mine chatters violently in forward gears and is perfect in reverse. Weird.
While most of their products may perform flawlessly, it's what a vendor or manufacturer does when there is a problem that defines how good/bad they actually are (in my mind anyhow). To this point, they have denied there is a problem, stated the wear I have is normal (which it clearly is NOT based on others who have them as well), and that they can rebuild my brand new clutch for a few hundred $$$ if problems persist. As I said, never again.
02-09-2014, 09:17 AM
#37
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02-11-2014, 06:47 AM
#38
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Rxt ks7 clutch Thanks, Fuzzy. I was hoping to elicit a response from you. I don't get pissed when people don't agree with me. I may smart *** from time to time, however I would like to think that I am far from being obtuse.
Anyhow, the clutch was installed correctly. The first time it was torqued to 35 lbs, the second at 28 lbs (measuring when the fingers stopped pulling in), and then lastly at 32 lbs as advised by technical assistance. Rockland Gear (who built my T56 Magnum) says the min preload should be no less than .160", and I am currently at .163". The access in the front plate is of no consequence, and is there to use a standard style clutch fork. I already have a block off plate for this, and is actually pretty handy for inspection.
There has never been any grease/fluid contamination at all. You can clearly see the original stickers and felt marker writing on the friction disks, so they have obviously not been over heated.
I have looked into this, believe me. I am not alone here...there are quite a few judging from the posts I have seen (many have not started threads, just commented on their experience in other threads) that have encountered the same types of problems that I am having. IIRC, most of the threads have been on FBody forums.
However, I have not yet found anyone that has encountered the same type of wear that I have after only 600 miles. The wear is a direct result of the friction material, if I could get a better pic you'd be able to see that.
Many people have spoken highly of the RXT, mainly citing its light pedal and OE like feel. This has never been the case with me at all. From day one, it chattered like hell and only got worse from there. After I first installed it, I could actually feel the two disks engaging separately. That went away after the first time I took it out and re-torqued the pressure plate, however the remaining issues continued.
I am most angered that I simply cannot enjoy driving my car. It's now just a chore. I really don't know what to do at the moment, I'm sure McLeod would take it back and look at it under warranty....however if they tell me I'm on the hook for another $300 flywheel (and shipping) I'll lose my **** completely.
Oh...I laughed at the post about my car being grimy...that was the 4L80E that has been on my shop floor for three years (I bought a 2001 Silverado 2500 for $500 for another project) and decided to throw that trans on the jack since I had the car in the air and the trans out. I only did this to show everyone how the 4L80E fit since it has been theorized many times without concrete evidence. Sorry man, I was not about to spend an hour degreasing a junk trans core for a photo op that was specifically for everyone's benefit. I thought I was doing everyone a favor.
Anyhow, the clutch was installed correctly. The first time it was torqued to 35 lbs, the second at 28 lbs (measuring when the fingers stopped pulling in), and then lastly at 32 lbs as advised by technical assistance. Rockland Gear (who built my T56 Magnum) says the min preload should be no less than .160", and I am currently at .163". The access in the front plate is of no consequence, and is there to use a standard style clutch fork. I already have a block off plate for this, and is actually pretty handy for inspection.
There has never been any grease/fluid contamination at all. You can clearly see the original stickers and felt marker writing on the friction disks, so they have obviously not been over heated.
I have looked into this, believe me. I am not alone here...there are quite a few judging from the posts I have seen (many have not started threads, just commented on their experience in other threads) that have encountered the same types of problems that I am having. IIRC, most of the threads have been on FBody forums.
However, I have not yet found anyone that has encountered the same type of wear that I have after only 600 miles. The wear is a direct result of the friction material, if I could get a better pic you'd be able to see that.
Many people have spoken highly of the RXT, mainly citing its light pedal and OE like feel. This has never been the case with me at all. From day one, it chattered like hell and only got worse from there. After I first installed it, I could actually feel the two disks engaging separately. That went away after the first time I took it out and re-torqued the pressure plate, however the remaining issues continued.
I am most angered that I simply cannot enjoy driving my car. It's now just a chore. I really don't know what to do at the moment, I'm sure McLeod would take it back and look at it under warranty....however if they tell me I'm on the hook for another $300 flywheel (and shipping) I'll lose my **** completely.
Oh...I laughed at the post about my car being grimy...that was the 4L80E that has been on my shop floor for three years (I bought a 2001 Silverado 2500 for $500 for another project) and decided to throw that trans on the jack since I had the car in the air and the trans out. I only did this to show everyone how the 4L80E fit since it has been theorized many times without concrete evidence. Sorry man, I was not about to spend an hour degreasing a junk trans core for a photo op that was specifically for everyone's benefit. I thought I was doing everyone a favor.
No shim is supposed to be needed with my setup...Also the RXT is a POS...I have to start off in 2nd gear and that really helps...But a hp twin is clutch is going to have chatter. but the RXT is really bad....Plus I bought their slave which looks very heavy duty....should be for $580.00....
02-11-2014, 06:51 AM
#39
don't blame u for the dirty 4L80E good job.....I have an RXT that I took out because of vibration an 4th gear popping out at wot....and noticed installer put in the wrong pilot bearing...I have pic on my cell phone..Only have 800miles on the RXT..Tranny is ok in 4th now but does NOT want to disengauge. one of my disc's was ruined...Was going to call Mcleod today with pics and get a time and price for a rebuild...We put an LS7 in it for now and where the fluid comes out of slave, the tube has a almost a 90degree bend to it...Rob at Lindsay says he has done a lot of the LS7 clutches and the LS7 slave traps air in that bend....So it's still sittin. No shim is supposed to be needed with my setup...Also the RXT is a POS...I have to start off in 2nd gear and that really helps...But a hp twin is clutch is going to have chatter. but the RXT is really bad....Plus I bought their slave which looks very heavy duty....should be for $580.00....
No shim is supposed to be needed with my setup...Also the RXT is a POS...I have to start off in 2nd gear and that really helps...But a hp twin is clutch is going to have chatter. but the RXT is really bad....Plus I bought their slave which looks very heavy duty....should be for $580.00....
02-11-2014, 10:50 AM
#40
My RXT starting having issues (more and more clutch drag).
It was installed professionally so when it gave problems I took it back. THey said everything measured fine in the stackup (.15" difference). They called McLeod and they suggested the stone turn (which my mechanic did). It still dragged so they cut an "inspection hole" in the bell to make sure things were going together correctly... When I got it back it was still dragging.
Soooo, I dropped the tranny this week and found the throwout bearing seperated from the slave (I assume this is an issue since it didn't come this way). I can't get it to seat properly so I am replacing the slave. While I am in there I will be checking the clutch out as well. I suspect thy flywheel and floater will look like DMM's pics (the mechanic said it did before they turned it). I'll post pics once I get the clutch disassembled.
It was installed professionally so when it gave problems I took it back. THey said everything measured fine in the stackup (.15" difference). They called McLeod and they suggested the stone turn (which my mechanic did). It still dragged so they cut an "inspection hole" in the bell to make sure things were going together correctly... When I got it back it was still dragging.
Soooo, I dropped the tranny this week and found the throwout bearing seperated from the slave (I assume this is an issue since it didn't come this way). I can't get it to seat properly so I am replacing the slave. While I am in there I will be checking the clutch out as well. I suspect thy flywheel and floater will look like DMM's pics (the mechanic said it did before they turned it). I'll post pics once I get the clutch disassembled.