philistine

iTrader: (2)

Exactly! V1 owners become 'shoe-makers' modifying our cars. It's efforts like this that give others something to improve on and help the community.

psychobillycaddy

iTrader: (4)

Yes. There are actually four wires. One for the clutch safety to start it and I think the other set is to disengage the cruise when you depress the clutch.

psychobillycaddy

iTrader: (4)

When you get into a heavier pressure plate like aftermarket twin disc setups you will find that the stock hydraulics on GM cars do not completely disengage the clutch or the engagement is real close to the floor. This is most noticed when initially putting the car in 1st or reverse gear, it grinds.

There are also issues with clutch pedals sticking to the floor although Ive never experienced it. This is supposed to fix that as well.

If your car isn't built to where you need a high performance clutch setup your most likely not going to need to do this mod. I wouldn't advise it unless absolutely necessary.

psychobillycaddy

iTrader: (4)

Thanks I really appreciate this and the other kind words. I wish I had taken more thorough pictures and documented this from the start of the project. I really didn't know if it was going to work or not. I just started it on a hunch and got lucky with the results. The next guy will most likely not have to cut as large a hole because trimming the adapter will minimize the size necessary. I was doing both at the same time trying to get it to fit.

Im just excited about the prospect of getting to drive my car again.

serik21

If in the process of doing the ls9r clutch from katech. If the damm fly wheel bolts showed up on Saturday like they were suppose to I would have my car back together.

serik21

Im in the process of doing the ls9r clutch from katech. If the damm fly wheel bolts showed up on Saturday like they were suppose to I would have my car back together.

rhd

if tick needs a ctsv....they're local to me

serik21

Any one else thinking we should get a group buy going that way tick would be more interested in making a ctsv master. Without the trimming of the fire wall??? Any one else like the idea?

StretchASU

Granted I have no need for this kind of a MC since my car will never be more than a bolt on street car now, but if there is enough interest in this I would possibly be willing to loan them my car for the week I will be in NYC in March for work.

gtistile

I've been watching this thread for a while as I am in the same boat with my LS9 clutch not fully disengaging. I also get the pedal stuck to the floor issue at high rpms under heavy load. Putting down over 800whp and not being able to shift quickly is no fun.

I called and spoke with a guy from Tick today regarding the V1s and this issue. He informed me that a while back they actually did a Master for a guy in Florida. He said it was such a nightmare to make happen, that it wasn't even remotely worth their efforts to produce a kit. That the instructions for install would be incredibly difficult to write and/or understand.


That leaves what psycobilly has done as really the only alternative to the stock unit. Still I am hesitant to decide to cut in to the car without being 100% certain this is going to work 100% correctly.

Are you still happy with the results? any setbacks or problems?

DMM

Still in for results. However, it seems installing a decent slave master is almost as hard as installing a 4L80E. It sucks that Tick seems to have thrown in the towel here.

psychobillycaddy

iTrader: (4)

When Tick did it they didn't use the adapter from the C6. They made a plate that connected to the firewall and it didn't line up well with the pedal assembly. Im telling you that I don't think an adapter can be made that will fit without cutting the firewall. The portion of the adapter that holds the Tilton has to go inside the firewall and I don't see how you could make it smaller to fit the hole and still get the Tilton inserted. Good news is that when all the pieces are installed back on the car you cant even see it or the hole. When was the last time any of you have seen your clutch master cylinder? You have to remove the panel for the windshield wipers to get to it.

As for my results. I only did a small test drive as Im still working on a few projects. One is this gauge pod. I don't like the Aeroforce with the AEM so I bought an AEM fuel pressure and am putting the aeroforce back on the steering column


Ill let you know when Ive put some time on it. Hopefully next week.

VeryWhiteDevil

iTrader: (9)

i was considering the mustang gauge pod. looks nice.

psychobillycaddy

iTrader: (4)

Thanks. I have to take it apart again and trim the edge of the gasket so it will form a corner. Other than that it worked out well.

gtistile

Please keep us posted on your results once you get some more driving on the new master. I'm seriously considering tackling this using your directions. My only other known option right now is to replace my 117k mile master with a new one and hope it's JUST enough to make it fully disengage.

psychobillycaddy

iTrader: (4)

Drove the car most of the day. It actually got better. Now the clutch disengages when I barely touch the pedal. I have to adjust it to get it closer to the floor.
Its about as stiff as it was with the aftermarket clutch. It definitely feels firmer, not as squishy

gtistile

What clutch are you running now?

Also curious how long the install took start to finish?

philistine

iTrader: (2)

I'm interested in this as well. I had to replace the OEM slave with a brand new OEM slave for the LS9 twin clutch - suspected disengagement issues. It's much better but I think a new clutch master cylinder like the one you modified would be the final solution.

Looks like a day's work with the cutting and grinding added to this mod.

serik21

So why cant tick just take our master and just make a longer piston in it so it pushes the fluid more?

psychobillycaddy

iTrader: (4)

I had a Mantic and am now running an RPS twin.

The install took a few weeks due to waiting on parts and I took the whole dashboard out, not knowing that to get to the top two bolts all I had to do was remove the parking brake assembly. I also installed the gauge pod and a new stereo while everything was apart.

Now that I know what to do and if all the parts were in hand it would take a day or two. You need a lot of dremel discs and the flexible dremel attachment on hand. I made a few trips to Lowes to restock during the process.