Britt29

iTrader: (1)

So to start things off, I am a previous V1 owner. I sold my car last spring after some medical issues that would prevent me from driving for almost a year. Additionally, the car was an 04' stocker (except CAI) with only 58k miles and a GEN IV diff so I couldn't bring myself to tear it apart as it was in fantastic running condition.

So here's my dilemma, I have a ton of V one performance upgrades that I haven't sold so do I build what I feel will be a badass V1 and have 20k, plus cost of car. Or, do I build a badass V2 and sell the parts for a V 1 that I have. Below is a list a parts that I have:

Aluminum LS 402 short block w/20 cc dish pistons for built for boost
Kenne Bell 2.8HL supercharger w/ both a LS1/LS6 cathedral manifold or a second manifold for LS3/LSA square ports (both manifolds include IC)
Obvious plan is to go with LSA or LS3 head/manifold/IC for better flow

Those two items will go into new build regardless of which one. These are the V1 items I can sell if I go V2 build:

Full CS 8.8 kit w/ outer CV's, Aluminum O4 Cobra Diff w/ 3.73 gears
CS motor mounts
CS trans block
CS Trailing arms for wider rims
OBX LT headers w/resonators

I'm sure there's more I'm forgetting but this is all in storage & haven't been there in a couple months

So here's the thoughts & could definitely use opinions/input

V1 cost - Approx. 8K (seen several high mileage close to this price)
Cost of all parts for complete build, including complete dual intake fuel system, new hood, and everything to make this a 800 Hp/TQ street driveable toy
Approx. 18-20K after selling V1 engine and parts & install (no time so friend doing it at good price)

Total investment: 26-30K for a badass V1

Or

V2 cost $25-30k (seen a handful with 100K+ mileage at this range)
selling V2 short block, SC, all V1 parts will almost offset cost of install and additional parts since fuel system much less expensive than V 1 and LSA heads can be reused after cleaned up and new internals

Total investment: 28-34K for a bad *** V2


I love both body styles, but I'm leaning towards the V2 for the comfort amenities, etc.

Please help me out and let me know what I'm not thinking about. I know there is always things that pop up, but I'd think they'd be similar between each build.

And yes, If I choose the V2 build all those parts mentioned for the V1 will go on here for 1st choice to members at good prices as I got deals on almost all of it.

MichaelSuch

What's your goal? Going to do any drag racing? Autox? Just a quick fun DD?

Personally I'd lean towards the V2. They seem to hook much better, even compared to V1's with an upgraded rear end. I still haven't seen people cut the same 60's that's V2's can. If you want something different, that hasn't been done, a more rare car, wanting to break some V1 records if taking it to the strip, then go with a V1.

Britt29

iTrader: (1)

Looking for reliable power to mess around with on the street not really doing any drag with it

Probably staying with stick as will not be a DD

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

You're going forced induction so I'd go v2 but I don't think you're gettin 800 put of either package for your budget.

Also, check out the "pig in slop" thread over on Cadillacs owners v1 performance forum and look how much effort they're putting into the fuel system to handle anywhere close to 800hp that a v2 can handle without mods.

But....if you look on eBay, there are literally 10 times the number of v2s for sale than there are v1s. Makes you wonder.

Dibs on the 8.8!!

Britt29

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, only think that's been reliable is the Lonnie's Double pump setup. Looking at at least $1800 for that on V1.

I do think I'll get the power levels I mentioned. The Blower is designed to operate at 15-20psi levels regularly so I can push it if needed. The key is the IAT's since KB's are known for heat soak with their stock kits.

As for the V2's there were a lot more produced as well as financing made it pretty affordable for a 2-3 year old one. But the engine not being forged & the limits of the TVS 1900 are probably pushing owners to wanting more but can't afford the cost of complete engine swap & larger blower (2 things I already have)

demang

iTrader: (3)

v2. Nice ride and i would think less worry. If you want a more ( i think) rare car then v1.

serik21

From finacial standpoint v1 on your side looks like a better deal. You only get 1/3 of the mod money back when you sell the car. So you will loose a lot less money on the v1

ColeGraham

iTrader: (8)

Why not sell on that engine/blower parts if you get a V2?

You can get the V2 up to 800+ with a stock short block and mostly stock blower. Most guys will be blower only through an A6 are at 625-675 and 700-750 through the M6 with that set up.

Cam, Heads, Ported TB/Snout/Blower, Long Tubes, More Boost, and support modds...will net you a lot of gain.

I am a cam away from breaking 600...and if I added CNC LSA Heads and port the blower case, I will be in the 650-675 rage. 100 Shot into the blower nets an average gain on these car of 150hp150/tq.

Will (y2kfrc on here) has a 2012 Auto Sedan that ran a 9.4 1/4 on spray, and was making close to 1000rwhp on the bottle with stock blower and bottom end.

Then there is Dr. Mark (SecretWeapon on CTSVOwners) that is pushing over 1100rwhp through the M6 and mostly stock blower and spray...his car ran 199.2 in the Texas Mile last October.

P-Funk

I'd go the V2 route if you could get a good one for the prices you are quoting. I've had my V1 since bought new in '06 and love it (not getting rid of it anytime soon), but if I was in the market, I'd choose the V2 over V1.

ryridesmotox

I vote V1. After you do all those mods which you already have it will easily do work on most cars on the road. But I'm biased I love my V1

Britt29

iTrader: (1)

Personally I'd rather have the forged bottom end and slightly bigger cubes. Plus blower would put out a lot more than the TVS 1900. I probably could get 1000+ without spray if I spin it to 16+Psi, but plan is to keep it around 800 depending on setup

Additionally the V's I've looked at are quite a bit higher miles than whats on the engine I have (Only 8k)

Lastly, I'd think that the 2.8KB would have a much more potent punch even at lower psi than the 1900.

ColeGraham

iTrader: (8)

I was not getting at which is more powerful, which is better, which is this that or the other...I was merely outlining a way that you can get to your goal for roughly the same money and getting a better car to start with.

Britt29

iTrader: (1)

After re-reading your response, I get what your saying. Your talking about coming out at the same as a V1 build.

My bad! Still think I'm gonna stick with the forged motor.

$ is not really the issue just don't want to waste any more than needed cuz ultimately modding is all a waste in terms of $, but sure as hell not in terms of fun!

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

I look at it this way. You've done a V1, now do a V2. Spend some time in both. You only live once, and variety is good.

adanieljohnson1

iTrader: (1)

Are you wanting to set records with the V1? The current fastest V1 only ran an 11.5 last year on a turbo setup... If your wanting a fun toy that you don’t take to the dragstrip and could care less about # and more about buttometer then stay with the V1... If #'s are what you’re looking for then go with the V2 as it is a proven application! I want a high 11 low 12 second drag car stock with an Auto that can hit 9s so im going V2

Britt29

iTrader: (1)

I find that hard to believe unless you're talking stock block only with Turbo setup. That or the couple guys running 402's/408's & Procharger set up's haven't run times just have dyno #'s

Either way, not looking to set records but do like doing things different, hence the Kenne Bell. The more & more I think about it, V2 looks more appealing

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

I would also consider what the car is going to be worth after you're finished. I know when you're building a car it's not always the first thing you consider, but a V2 will hold its value much better than the V1. Not to mention they're a much better built car as far as fit and finish.

253ctsv

I dissagree that a v2 would hold its value better. A v1 isnt going to lose much more value. They're pretty cheap. The second gens have much further to fall. And if you think an 09 ctsv is still going to be a 30k car 10yrs from now id have to think you must be delirious. if you compare the price of a late 90s vette with other cars back till they start increasing in value (60s or 70s) youll see theyre all in the same price range. I'm no economist but I think thats a good hint of whats to come for these cars...

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Well if you are considering "building a car" then the cars ability to hold value should not matter. You will get next to no return on mods. Neither is a sound investment. My vote obviously lies with a V1. V2's are still at 30k plus so...I can get a modded V1 for 18k (check classified section) and then spend the remaining 12k (or more) and build a V2 killer