Fuel Mod - Twin DW300 fuel pumps (pics)
08-07-2014, 10:34 AM
#21
The advice I received had nothing to do with Racetronix and more about the design of the ATO fuses in general. The bulkhead connecting wires at the bulkhead were hot as I mentioned but also the blade fuses were hot as well. The ATO blade fuses carry more resistance as I understand than a circuit breaker. I've heard conflicting data regarding 'fuses vs circuit breakers' and to my understanding they both provide protection. There are many fuel pump kits out there using circuit breakers instead of fuses. It's in a wide range of use in cars, boats, homes etc. The point here was as designed...the ATO blade fuses generate more resistance than a circuit breaker. I think all of your kits include a blade fuse so I can understand why you might lean towards fuse applications.
I used a Delphi Packard Five-cavity Wide-range Crimping Tool and yes some splices I soldered. I'm not new to making cables - I'm sure your techs do it daily and are proud of your process. I inspected your hotwire and thought it was very neatly fabricated.
The electrical bulkhead connector you provide and I'm using is 14amp rated as you suggested. The DW300 pumps I'm using are rated at 13 amps at 13.5volts and 60 psi. The voltage swings on this platform from about 13.5 to 14.1. The fuel pressure on this platform is 58-60 psi. I have the bulkhead connector feeding both pumps so theoretically that is 13 amps each. To be clear that means 2 of the 4 wires have 13 amps of current going through it. When the other pump is energized then the other 2 wires will have 13 amps of current. Add that up when both pumps are energized and that is 26 amps of current going through the 4wire bulkhead connector. FWIW I run on single pump operation and the secondary is wired for a Hobbs.
I understand what you are suggesting by making a terminal on the fuel module and that may be the best option considering how crowded it is. I was under the impression your bulkhead terminal was rated 14amps/2 leads instead of 14 amps total. Wired in parallel, that cuts it down to 7amps per component - not good.
Thanks for the response!
I used a Delphi Packard Five-cavity Wide-range Crimping Tool and yes some splices I soldered. I'm not new to making cables - I'm sure your techs do it daily and are proud of your process. I inspected your hotwire and thought it was very neatly fabricated.
The electrical bulkhead connector you provide and I'm using is 14amp rated as you suggested. The DW300 pumps I'm using are rated at 13 amps at 13.5volts and 60 psi. The voltage swings on this platform from about 13.5 to 14.1. The fuel pressure on this platform is 58-60 psi. I have the bulkhead connector feeding both pumps so theoretically that is 13 amps each. To be clear that means 2 of the 4 wires have 13 amps of current going through it. When the other pump is energized then the other 2 wires will have 13 amps of current. Add that up when both pumps are energized and that is 26 amps of current going through the 4wire bulkhead connector. FWIW I run on single pump operation and the secondary is wired for a Hobbs.
I understand what you are suggesting by making a terminal on the fuel module and that may be the best option considering how crowded it is. I was under the impression your bulkhead terminal was rated 14amps/2 leads instead of 14 amps total. Wired in parallel, that cuts it down to 7amps per component - not good.
Thanks for the response!
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Manufacturer / Distributor of Automotive Fuel Systems, Components & Electronics
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Manufacturer / Distributor of Automotive Fuel Systems, Components & Electronics
Please support a Racetronix dealer near you for personalized service.
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08-07-2014, 11:16 AM
#22
I think the 'fuse vs. circuit breaker' is better discussed elsewhere - thanks for the link on your support page, I'll hit it up. I have an apparatus where I test both including a full mockup of a fuel system including various fuel pumps. I can measure the amps, volts, resistance and calculate the heat generated etc.
If you want to perform the same experiment please share - I'm all ears.
If you want to perform the same experiment please share - I'm all ears.
08-07-2014, 12:50 PM
#23
I think the 'fuse vs. circuit breaker' is better discussed elsewhere - thanks for the link on your support page, I'll hit it up. I have an apparatus where I test both including a full mockup of a fuel system including various fuel pumps. I can measure the amps, volts, resistance and calculate the heat generated etc.
If you want to perform the same experiment please share - I'm all ears.
If you want to perform the same experiment please share - I'm all ears.
Good luck with your project.
__________________
Manufacturer / Distributor of Automotive Fuel Systems, Components & Electronics
Please support a Racetronix dealer near you for personalized service.
>WEB SITE<
Manufacturer / Distributor of Automotive Fuel Systems, Components & Electronics
Please support a Racetronix dealer near you for personalized service.
>WEB SITE<
09-10-2014, 09:40 PM
#24
Getting rid of the blade fuses on the fuel pump hotwires definitely cooled down my wiring. The circuit breakers are absolutely perfect! As an alternative here is a link to a cylinder style fuse holder:
I use this one on my other car and is also on a fuel pump relay - no resistance/heat issues with these either. I've been running with the cylinder style fuse on my other car for about 2 years and never had any issues. I use a single 340lph power hungry fuel pump on that one.
Only issues I've ever had are the blade fuses - glad I got rid of them so I can move forward with bigger stuff.
I use this one on my other car and is also on a fuel pump relay - no resistance/heat issues with these either. I've been running with the cylinder style fuse on my other car for about 2 years and never had any issues. I use a single 340lph power hungry fuel pump on that one.
Only issues I've ever had are the blade fuses - glad I got rid of them so I can move forward with bigger stuff.
05-13-2015, 01:42 PM
#25
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Just want to give a thumbs up to this thread. Great help in doing my fuel system.
Question though, do you notice that fuel pressure drops immediately to 0 after shut down.
I know aeromotive fpr don't hold pressure after shut down, because they are designed for performance of s running engine not sealing fp after the engine is off. So I'm wondering if the Holley fpr is the same?
Did you also set your base fp with the vacuum/boost line disconnected, I know aeromotive says to do so with their fpr?
Side note my fast gauge started spewing fuel out the vent, no cool for a not so cheap gauge.
Gauge ended up being filled with gas instead of glycerin.
Replaced it with a Marshall gauge locally, but may opt for an aeromotive with a vent valve.
Question though, do you notice that fuel pressure drops immediately to 0 after shut down.
I know aeromotive fpr don't hold pressure after shut down, because they are designed for performance of s running engine not sealing fp after the engine is off. So I'm wondering if the Holley fpr is the same?
Did you also set your base fp with the vacuum/boost line disconnected, I know aeromotive says to do so with their fpr?
Side note my fast gauge started spewing fuel out the vent, no cool for a not so cheap gauge.
Gauge ended up being filled with gas instead of glycerin.
Replaced it with a Marshall gauge locally, but may opt for an aeromotive with a vent valve.
05-16-2015, 10:18 AM
#26
Glad this helped! To answer your question my fuel pressure drops to zero immediately after shutdown. I'm still using the Holley FPR and it's works great. I don't have the FPR boost referenced since I don't have forced induction. I have it set to 58psi and it doesn't move unless I have a voltage swing. I purchased a Mechman high output alternator to stabilize my voltage drops (grounds are not an issue).
I have another car that has an AEM and is boost referenced. I set it to factory fuel pressure WITH IT CONNECTED to the intake. So when it makes boost, the FPR responds etc.
I haven't experienced any problems with the FAST gauge although I did wrap the connection fitting with teflon tape - some swear by it and in other applications it's outlawed but this isn't aviation. I also use Permatex 80017 which is Aviation form-a-gasket which is low modulus and can handle a wide temperature range.
Thanks!
I have another car that has an AEM and is boost referenced. I set it to factory fuel pressure WITH IT CONNECTED to the intake. So when it makes boost, the FPR responds etc.
I haven't experienced any problems with the FAST gauge although I did wrap the connection fitting with teflon tape - some swear by it and in other applications it's outlawed but this isn't aviation. I also use Permatex 80017 which is Aviation form-a-gasket which is low modulus and can handle a wide temperature range.
Thanks!
09-23-2015, 12:45 PM
#27
There is no check valve in our systems so the pressure immediately drops to zero. Even though the FueLab 848 series filter boasts an integrated check valve, the regulator allows the pressure to drop because of the return. I bought the "Marshall" gauge instead of the FAST one to begin with because it looked better being all black with white lettering. My Holley regulator tends to drift down in pressure over the course of a couple weeks. I can tell when it gets down to about 55 psi and my idle changes. This makes no sense to me at all.
Last edited by 07CTS-V; 09-23-2015 at 01:07 PM.
04-20-2018, 12:58 PM
#30
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I'm just getting around to implementing this mod, luckily I printed out the thread prior to Photobucket breaking all the links to the pics. I pulled the fuel basket out last night, I assume the CTSV uses a second pump on the drivers side of the tank, my question is this: Is the new pump I install that runs all the time, the one that gets tied in with the feed from the factory second pump at the fuel basket or does that matter? It appears that the new second pump that only runs when needed is tied in at the homedepot manifold. Or does it matter?
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