Tryin to buy a V1
#1
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Tryin to buy a V1
So I got out of the racecar game a few months ago and sold my Trans am, bad choice as now I want another. After seeing a couple go up for sale I think it's time to get a V, wanted one for awhile now.
So on to questions, there's one gonna come up for sale locally that has been lowered and they say the traction control light is always on, does this have to do with the magnetic suspension? And is there a fix? Is there anything I should look specifically for? It has around 100k I know my way around the engine but as far as car spesifics I'm a bit uneducated. Thank you hopefully be frequenting this forum more in the near future
So on to questions, there's one gonna come up for sale locally that has been lowered and they say the traction control light is always on, does this have to do with the magnetic suspension? And is there a fix? Is there anything I should look specifically for? It has around 100k I know my way around the engine but as far as car spesifics I'm a bit uneducated. Thank you hopefully be frequenting this forum more in the near future
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I though all gens did, guess I was misinformed. I'm assuming since they haven't fixed it the computer is not saying what's wrong. Only time I ever had a sensor to bad was when the bolt backed out on my mustang and the sensor was ground in half by the wheel it read off
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#9
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Whats wrong with a v1? I have seen alot of guys, including myself, come from f bodies and alot say they won't go back. Before I bought my v, I was looking for a SS or WS6, but I'm sure glad I got the v instead. Ya, they have there problems, but what car doesn't? Its funny because the v gets alot of heat for the weak rear ends, but the f bodies aren't much better. The v is an awesome car, you won't regret it.
#10
I love my V1.
I came from Mustangs.
Had a 88 Coupe and a 99 Cobra.
This car is a whole another level of fun. Doesn't attract attention. Cop's don't bat an eye, especially when I just idle past. Step on it and it has no problem screaming to redline. Most people can't even tell these apart from the regular CTS.
I came from Mustangs.
Had a 88 Coupe and a 99 Cobra.
This car is a whole another level of fun. Doesn't attract attention. Cop's don't bat an eye, especially when I just idle past. Step on it and it has no problem screaming to redline. Most people can't even tell these apart from the regular CTS.
#12
Good luck op.
If I had to do it over, and had more time (I had to use a sales tax waiver that was about to expire and only had 2 months to search), I'd look for one that already has the bushings and motor mounts upgraded, as they seem to be a major pain to replace and are certainly going to be needed on a car with 100k.
If I had to do it over, and had more time (I had to use a sales tax waiver that was about to expire and only had 2 months to search), I'd look for one that already has the bushings and motor mounts upgraded, as they seem to be a major pain to replace and are certainly going to be needed on a car with 100k.
#14
Check for a leaking radiator or smell of coolant. Driveline clunk from the stock piece of junk flywheel. Diff wine, yellow tint on the brake calipers, aside from the usual things to check.
#15
Don't need to get out since I have a V1 but thanks anyway.
OP's avatar is him at the track which means he likes the 1/4 mile. This car blows in the 1/4 and it makes me miss my Bolt on TA every time I try and run from a dig. I like the car, but if you are planning to do an 1/4 runs, you need a 4500 dollar rear to run the same times as stock.
For a daily you need all new bushings and mounts to "fix" the clunking anyway.
Just my two cents
OP's avatar is him at the track which means he likes the 1/4 mile. This car blows in the 1/4 and it makes me miss my Bolt on TA every time I try and run from a dig. I like the car, but if you are planning to do an 1/4 runs, you need a 4500 dollar rear to run the same times as stock.
For a daily you need all new bushings and mounts to "fix" the clunking anyway.
Just my two cents
#16
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Don't need to get out since I have a V1 but thanks anyway.
OP's avatar is him at the track which means he likes the 1/4 mile. This car blows in the 1/4 and it makes me miss my Bolt on TA every time I try and run from a dig. I like the car, but if you are planning to do an 1/4 runs, you need a 4500 dollar rear to run the same times as stock.
For a daily you need all new bushings and mounts to "fix" the clunking anyway.
Just my two cents
OP's avatar is him at the track which means he likes the 1/4 mile. This car blows in the 1/4 and it makes me miss my Bolt on TA every time I try and run from a dig. I like the car, but if you are planning to do an 1/4 runs, you need a 4500 dollar rear to run the same times as stock.
For a daily you need all new bushings and mounts to "fix" the clunking anyway.
Just my two cents
#17
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I realize it wouldn't be a quarter mile car like the TA was and I also understand my days of cheap ls parts are over, what's the scoop on the radiator? I'll check for bushings but if it's a deal that will work for me I'll just do them myself.
Thanks for the advice
Thanks for the advice
#18
My 2004 had the original radiator replaced at 30k miles, and when the replacement started seeping at 80k miles I replaced it with a Alradco all aluminum radiator.
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Ok I'll check that, I'm gonna go over this car very well since it will probably be the most complex vehicle I've ever owned. Aside from big parts like the Trans and rear end is there any parts that are rediculously expensive or too hard to replace for somebody working out of their garage?