Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

Just curious if anyone has experience with potential benefits of using cryo treated rotors (by a reputable company, with a known good process I.e. frozen rotors or centric/stoptech who uses frozen rotors) on the track? I ruined my drt slotted rotors at my last track day. They developed hard spots and were unable to be resurfaced.

Magyver

I have a 2010 Camaro and get my treated rotors from Frozen Rotors. I think you can find for you V there as well.

I got them because of track days.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

When I first started doing track events in my Subaru back in '00/01 I had a set of stock rotors cryo treated. It did seem to help with longevity on track, but the difference wasn't worth the money invested, particularly when I found aftermarket rotors that were cheaper than OEM and stood up to track abuse without cryo treating.

Magyver

A small list of those said aftermarket rotors would be much appreciated.

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

A proper bedding procedure was the key to extending the life of my rotors at the track. It was a huge pain in the *** because I live in the city, but I would drive nearly 45 min each way the night before a track event to get to a remote spot I found were I could do successive 60-5mph hard stops until I induced some green fade in new pads. A long drive back on the highway with no stand still stopping gave everything a chance to cool down and resulted in a perfectly even pad transfer layer on the rotor surfaces.

The hard spots on rotors develop as a result of uneven pad deposits and eventually become harder then the steel the rotor is made from. If you're already bedding in new friction material and not a complete ***-hat on the brake pedal you might need to make a jump up in pad temperature range for your traction/track combo to get that consistently even layer and avoid smearing and spotting. When I was tracking my car heavily before I had kids, brakes were my number one consumable cost and I spent a lot of good money after bad learning lessons along the way. Proper bedding, correct temp range compounds, and believe it or not, braking later in the turns, were my keys to braking system with relative longevity.

Magyver

If you not braking late then it's being done wrong.

In all seriousness, your statement is correct. Riding your brakes in everyday driving shortens the life of the pads vs applying good pressure to them within a shorter distant to the stop sign or light.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

This was on my N/A Subaru with the original 277mm rotors and 2-piston sliding calipers. Brembo started making replacement rotors for that fitment, so I used those rather than the stock rotors and they worked great. Later I upgraded to WRX size (294mm rotors) with the Subaru (not Brembo) fixed 4-pot calipers; with those I've used Centric Premium rotors with no issues.

I've also used Centric Premiums on track on the V with no issues (with Hawk, Carbonne-Lorraine, and Carbotech pads).

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

I definitely bedded the pads correctly when they were first installed but it was a good amount of time before the track events (months) and many miles. I was running Hawk HP+ but i will probably switch to running a street pad on street and maybe a carbotech XP10 at the track.

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

If your running the same pad for street and track, its probably still a good idea to rebed them before a track event. Pads basically operate in two phases, abrasive and transfer. When not up to temp the pad is wearing away at the rotor surface like sandpaper on a wood. When at operating temp, the pad is, for lack of a better description, melting and the contact is pad on pad material. This is a bigger problem with track pads that have much higher temperature thresholds. Street pads are essentially always at operating temps. HP+ are still pretty much a street pad, but street driving can still wear away a good transfer layer just tooling around stoplight to stoplight.

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

I understand most of this but can't you use the first track session in the morning as a bedding/re-bedding session? I think on the first session i only ran 10-15 minute before coming off to let everything cool down.

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

You can, I have, but it's not ideal, at least at my home track. I drove at the back of the pack so no one rear ended me the one time I had to do it on track, I preferred to show up in the morning ready to rock and start sorting out other variables like tire pressure, suspension settings, and choice of breakfast food!

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

I know some people have success doing that, and I've done it on occasion when I was too lazy or didn't have time to find some open road to bed the new pads in the night before. I do seem to have better results if I bed them in before I run them on track.