ls1247

iTrader: (2)

I've got a very well taken care of Stealth gray with gray interior, bone stock, 05 ls6 car that currently has 181K on it. New emblems, nice paint, fresh wheels, clean interior....nice looking car. The motor runs strong, has good oil pressure, makes no strange noises and hasn't burned a drop of oil since I've owned so I'm comfortable that it could get me to 300k + miles as I beat on my motorcycle, not my car...I commute 130 interstate miles a day and I'm almost a broke *** so I need this thing to last.

On the list...

Balanced LS7 clutch assembly
Motor/trans mounts
valve springs
ATI damper (wanting to pin it)
Plugs, wires
water pump
alternator overhaul
big 3 wiring mods
radiator hoses
clutch master

Its got enough power for now but if I thought i could get better gas mileage, I could justify a set of headers and a smallish cam but I'm not excited about pulling the heads so lets try and not go there.

While I have the damper off, should I look towards an LS2 timing chain set and maybe an oil pump?

Also, I have access to an external arm lift so I'm thinking about dropping the front subframe with the motor/trans as an assembly with a list this long....any opinions on this?

What have I missed guys?

Thanks in advance, Ken

InfrareV

If you're interested in a cam, I would bite the bullet and pull the heads. I think it's appropriate regardless as I would replace the lifters if I were in your shoes and yes I would replace the oil pump and install a LS2 chain.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

I'm not so interested in a cam but......have we seen lifter failures in the ls6 and are they serviceable without pulling the heads? never worked on an LS series motor but i'm not scared of it.

Of course, this brings us to the trunnion upgrade and i just don't think I need all that as i have never, and i mean never, even hit the revlimiter on this thing!

thanks for the reply

ryridesmotox

You will have to remove the heads for lifters. At least that way you will also be able to get a look at the cam and other items. Also get new lifter trays. If you want to increase fuel economy, I'd have a shop do a nice valve job on em. Ease the flow into and out if the cylinder, clean up the combustion chamber from 200k of crime and carbon buildup, nothing too crazy and it wouldn't be that much if they aren't milling or cleaning up runners and stuff. They would also give you new seats, seals, valve locks and all that jazz. Your valve are probably fine and if you send it out for a valve job they will clean them up also. I'd definitely get new valve springs. And a new timing set and oil pump, and hell I'd look into a new water pump if that is OEM original as well... The water pump will have to come off when you remove the timing cover.

ryridesmotox

Oh and don't forget all the gaskets and seals... And if you want, a good route to go is ARP fasteners. A lot of oem bolts on motors (in general not just LS) are torque to yield and they can not... Or rather shouldn't be reused.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

Do a compression test and a leak down test. This will give you good in sight to the internals of your engine.

At 200,000 you aught to change the oil pump and bearings.

Becker

iTrader: (4)

X2 on leak down/compression test.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Leak down and compression test won't reveal worn valve guides or stuck oil control rings so an otherwise healthy motor can turn out to be an oil burning pos...

Mine runs strong,doesn't smoke or burn oil and isn't making any noises it shouldn't be making so that alone will suffice for dd duty.

Thanks for the replies!

93hatch

iTrader: (9)

I wouldnt do any of that unless something is broken

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

I agree for the most part but i've had good luck keeping cars off the rollback by keeping various pumps and electrical components fresh because their life span is less than that of the engine internals....timing chain? maybe maybe not depends on what it cost....same goes for the oil pump.

Thanks for posting.

Becker

iTrader: (4)

I disagree.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

based on......

ryridesmotox

Preventative maintenance... An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

i've been depending on beaterish older cars for most my life because the first new car I ever purchased continually broke (96 formula firebird) and I had to lemon law that one.

I would rather throw wear item replacement parts at a car in large doses instead of one at a time!

Becker

iTrader: (4)

If you had bad valve guides, It would be unlikely that A. you didnt burn oil, and B. that they would seal perfect while doing a leakdown test.

Same goes for all your rings, if you had blowby you would / should know it.

A leakdown test with 180k miles will solidify that your motor IS strong/healthy and is worth putting money on preventative maintenance. I dont think replacing springs, oil pump, timing chain, plugs, wires is worth it if 4k miles later it finally does let go. I would rather give it a full on inspection and see what is more cost effective.

I bet you could give it a nice overhaul for a fair amount of money, then you can really have peace of mind.

Just my opinion, but a leakdown is well worth it to me.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Based on research, about he only thing "letting go" in the ls6 is the valve springs. In the long run, the ls6 won't economically get me to the desired power levels I'll be seeking after the car is retired from DD duty...based on that I don't want to to put any unnecessary money in it, just keep it running.

All engines have a certain amount of blowby and a leakdown test just won't tell you if an oil control ring is doing its job or if a valve guide is worn or a valve stem seal is shot....it'll tell you if the valve faces are sealing and how effectively the compressions rings are working and that's about it. As long as the valve seats are still round, the valve will center themselves on it and seal up even with a worn guide....but a worn valve guide will eventually lead to a worn valve seat which will then cause you leakdown and compression issues.

I agree, its good info but its only one indicator of how well an engine is going to operate. Never buy a used engine solely on the compression and leakdown numbers....a leap of faith and some sort of warranty are also required.

ryridesmotox

I hear that. Which is why I agree putting some cash to rebuild the top end with good parts is a good idea. This isn't a diesel motor that will go a million miles. But with proper care and maintenance it could see half that. And by the time you'll be ready to do it again, you might have the car retired from DD duty and have a new motor going in amyways

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

After working on motorcycles for years, the "top-end" job can be a little scary.

never failed it seemed, all that fresh compression would beat a rod bearing out of something in a freakin minute and then it was all my fault!

The bottom end is probably about as worn as the topend so I think i'd better keep it cheap and leave the engine itself in one piece!

Thanks for the reply!

What do you think about dropping the motor out the bottom??? I've done it before on rear engined cars and its worked out well.....

ryridesmotox

I believe book calls for it to be dropped out of the bottom of the car.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

oh that's me....by the book