Cruise doesn't work/Car starts without clutch
#1
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Cruise doesn't work/Car starts without clutch
First off, I'm not getting any codes.
With the symptoms I assumed that meant the clutch position switch was bad, I swapped in a new switch and there is no change. I didn't see a jumper installed and it all looks normal under the dash.
I checked the fuses htrvlv/cltch and Stgctls under the hood and both were in working order.
Anyone have any suggestions?
I do get the Service stability warning and for some reason my TC light always stays illuminated.
With the symptoms I assumed that meant the clutch position switch was bad, I swapped in a new switch and there is no change. I didn't see a jumper installed and it all looks normal under the dash.
I checked the fuses htrvlv/cltch and Stgctls under the hood and both were in working order.
Anyone have any suggestions?
I do get the Service stability warning and for some reason my TC light always stays illuminated.
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I swapped the clutch switch today with no change.
This is the switch I swapped.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sh...illac/cts.html
This is the switch I swapped.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sh...illac/cts.html
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#8
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Not good - that points to a problem with the PCM.
Circuit Description
Moving the ignition switch to the START position sends a 12 V signal to the ECM to command starting. Battery voltage also travels through the switch side of the Run/Crank relay then through the clutch switch, if equipped with manual transmission, and on through the coil side of the Starter relay and then to the ECM. The ECM receives class 2 information from the VTD and TCM to verify that all parameters are met for starting. When all parameters are met the ECM grounds the control circuit of the Starter relay closing the switch providing battery voltage to the starter solenoid through a 30 A Maxi-Fuse.
Circuit Description
Moving the ignition switch to the START position sends a 12 V signal to the ECM to command starting. Battery voltage also travels through the switch side of the Run/Crank relay then through the clutch switch, if equipped with manual transmission, and on through the coil side of the Starter relay and then to the ECM. The ECM receives class 2 information from the VTD and TCM to verify that all parameters are met for starting. When all parameters are met the ECM grounds the control circuit of the Starter relay closing the switch providing battery voltage to the starter solenoid through a 30 A Maxi-Fuse.
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It's weird to me that I'm not getting any codes.
I'm getting a tune on Monday, hopefully my tuner can see something in there that's screwy.
Bigti99a: Did you just put a shim between the firewall and the sensor?
I'm getting a tune on Monday, hopefully my tuner can see something in there that's screwy.
Bigti99a: Did you just put a shim between the firewall and the sensor?
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Our sensor is different then an F-Bodies and floats. I can't see how a shim would help. I would still question the sensor, it's pretty easy to remove. I think I would start there, maybe pull the sensor and try to use a pencil to activate it see if you can feel it hit both the upper and lower switches.
#12
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The sensor I pulled feels identical to the new sensor that I swapped in.
The "slider" towards the rear of the car unless I press the pedal and then it moves towards the front.
I got out a volt meter and checked the switch.
Two of the "prongs" on the pig tail read 11.3v and two read 0v.
I plugged the switch in and the two metal contacts inside the switch read 11.3v.
There are two metal tabs on the outside of the plug and they both read 11.3v
I unplugged the switch and the car still starts.
The "slider" towards the rear of the car unless I press the pedal and then it moves towards the front.
I got out a volt meter and checked the switch.
Two of the "prongs" on the pig tail read 11.3v and two read 0v.
I plugged the switch in and the two metal contacts inside the switch read 11.3v.
There are two metal tabs on the outside of the plug and they both read 11.3v
I unplugged the switch and the car still starts.
#13
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The voltage readings indicate the switch is closed as it should be. The behavior - car starting with pedal up, and cruise control inhibited - indicates that the PCM does not "see" the clutch switch at all. Check the connection at the PCM. The attached contains are description of the circuit even though the DTC is not present in this case, which is also consistent with the PCM not seeing the switch.
#18
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...ty-issues.html
Sounds similar and fixed my issue...tuner fried my computer and changed it out, but the TC and CC wouldn't work until I took it to the dealer.
Check your brake lights to see if they work. Do they work only when you depress the pedal an excessive amount or do they work at all?
The dealer changed the brake switch and I'm assuming did a recalibration. Problem was solved.
Sounds similar and fixed my issue...tuner fried my computer and changed it out, but the TC and CC wouldn't work until I took it to the dealer.
Check your brake lights to see if they work. Do they work only when you depress the pedal an excessive amount or do they work at all?
The dealer changed the brake switch and I'm assuming did a recalibration. Problem was solved.
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Well, I had it tuned and my tuner didn't see anything that'd indicate the cruise would be shut off. I checked the rear fuse block and the fuse was good for the brake switch.
I ended up swapping in the brake switch and there are no changes. Any other ideas gentlemen?
I ended up swapping in the brake switch and there are no changes. Any other ideas gentlemen?
#20
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A problem with the brake switch can cause the PCM to inhibit the cruise control but, does not explain why the car starts with the clutch pedal up.
Based on the symptoms and test so far, I believe problems is: (a) a defective PCM; (b) a bad connection of the clutch switch circuit at the PCM (I have the PCM pin-out if needed); or (c) a problem with the wire from the clutch switch to the PCM.
Based on the symptoms and test so far, I believe problems is: (a) a defective PCM; (b) a bad connection of the clutch switch circuit at the PCM (I have the PCM pin-out if needed); or (c) a problem with the wire from the clutch switch to the PCM.