bmylez

iTrader: (3)

It helps force air into the line. Since the slave line isn't at the highest point, air will not naturally want to travel there. A swift kick of the clutch will push it toward the line. That's how I understand it at least.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

The shaft in the cylinder has chambered "zones" in it for lack of a better way of putting it and if you don't cycle it a few times to completely fill it with fluid, it will hold air.

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

Would it be any help to pressurize the Motive and pump the pedal a few times withOUT the bleeder being cracked? Or can this combined Motive/pedal bleed only be done with a 2nd person (unless u have your remote bleed line run to the driver's seat)?

54inches

iTrader: (4)

Just for clarification purposes, I was giving Jason sh i t......he makes a great product and knows more about it than a GM engineer for sure.

Sssnake

Probably directed at me I knew you were kidding but it kept bothering me so I thought I would clean it up for any newbs stumbling across the thread. All good.

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

Guess I should have run my remote bleed line into the driver's seat area, rather than under the hood (to keep this a one person job)... Ugh

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

I'm not the only one who has noted that using the "disconnect the connector" method of bleeding actually introduces air into the line. If any fluid at all spills out of the open line going to the slave, you're done, end of story, there's air in the line after you reconnect it.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...s7-set-up.html

54inches

iTrader: (4)

Nope. Jaysen and I are good friends and I was giving him ****, just like I said.

philistine

iTrader: (2)

Becker

iTrader: (4)

well done.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

Phuqum!

Sssnake

I finally got around to installing the PMC this weekend. I dreaded it like nothing else due to the amount of time and frustration I experienced modifying and installing the Tick master cylinder. Just not a good weekend in general on that one.

The PMC install went absolutely great. I pre-filled the PMC with brake fluid and used a vacuum port cover to block off the nipple feeding the clutch fluid reservoir. Once everything was mounted, I removed the vacuum cap and hooked it to the reservoir. I then adjusted the stroke and only bled the clutch for a couple of minutes before I stopped seeing air in the line (very short period of time compared to my previous mc installs on this car). I do expect to have to bleed it one more time but this was VERY MUCH improved over the Tick MC (in fairness to Tick their MC was not designed for this car and I suspect ALL of the issues I had were a result of this).

The thing that really put a smile on my face was the fact that I got my CPS working again (it would not fit on the Tick MC). This minimized several issues I was having with the AFR going rich during coastdown and gives me back my cruise control. The big plus however is that this also allows me to use DFCO again. The LS2s tend to be fairly lazy on throttle decel without it. DFCO gave me back my engine braking. Anyone who drives in stop and go traffic or tracks their car will definitely appreciate this.

Again many thanks to Jaysen on this product.

One tidbit for those having issues bleeding the system. If you are power bleeding and you don't get a good seal to the clutch reservoir (I don't - the cap fitting I have doesn't fit the clutch reservoir but it does fit the brake reservoir) you can disconnect the reservoir, put a check valve on the hose at the reservoir side and power bleed the system. Then remove the check valve and hook the reservoir back up and top off. You do have to wait a good while so that any air introduced from removing the check valve and hooking up the reservoir bubbles back into the reservoir. Or you can put in a t fitting and permanently install a check valve. I used the first method but will be installing a t fitting and check valve this weekend.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

These are the words of someone who never has a unique opinion one way or the other....

you're a class act.

The fact remains that the Tick bleeding method is flawed. Completely opening a hydraulic system in order to bleed it makes no sense.

Becker

iTrader: (4)

U got my number for sure. I guess this is a bump haha I love my V, my opinions and where I stand on these forums.

Sorry if my "like" statement justified you to comment on it.

I enjoy reading your threads and posts as well as many others. Good or bad.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the positive attitude. I posted earlier in this thread that I thought the Tick procedure was flawed, someone else provided proof of it in another thread so I figured it was worth discussing....not a personal attack on anyone.

Becker

iTrader: (4)

I've had a PMC sitting on my shelf since First release. Didn't want to miss the opportunity but also I've been slammed with other stuff which had led to V neglect. It drives every few weeks now. With a laundry list of projects and issues only getting bigger by the day, I will eventually devote time to the V. For now I enjoy popping in every couple days to see what's new.

I just developed another leak a week or so ago so now any projects just got pushed bacK. And I've got about 5 house projects in front of car projects so yah. Someday soon she will get the attention needed.

philistine

iTrader: (2)

There is nothing wrong with Tick's method of purging the air from the master cylinder or the one I posted. You are attacking something from your computer screen without actually trying it. It may be because you refuse to read the steps and the intent of the process or you just like to troll post.

I tell you what, let's go over each step...

POST 213:

The opening statement says bench bleeding after the master cylinder is installed. Bench bleeding a master cylinder is a common practice. It's a vernacular for purging the air from the master cylinder OUT of the car...on a work bench or vice. This process actually uses your car as the bench after the MC is installed. Here is a video showing someone performing the process:


If you have bench bled a master cylinder, then you have removed all the air from that particular component and really speeds up the rest of the process. In this case, the other half you have to bleed is the clutch or slave cylinder.

So let's go over what we learned: Bench bleeding a master cylinder purges the air from half of the system. The other half of the system must still be bled.

Now let's go over each and every step:
Steps 1-2: Once you have disconnected the MC line going to the slave, the hydraulic fluid is captured by the quick disconnect and shuts the port. The hydraulic fluid has no place to go. When you cycle the pedal, you are attempting to transmit pressure and volume of hydraulic fluid but it has no place to go because it is disconnected from the slave. The pedal will feel rock hard as a result of this. Before the pedal is released, we relieve this pressure and volume of hydraulic fluid.
Step 3: By pressing the quick disconnect check valve, you relieve the pressure and volume of the MC.
Steps 4-5: Pretty simple steps here, just says let go of the check valve first then let go of the clutch pedal in that particular order. If it was reversed and someone let go of the pedal before the check valve then you can introduce air in the system.
Steps 6-8: Nothing hard about these steps, put clean fluid in and repeat the steps to make sure you got all the air out of the MC and restore when finished.
Step 9 Here is the magic step, you may now proceed to bleed the clutch using whatever Chuck Norris method in your arsenal.

If you follow this process, it will not fail. It is bleeding the master cylinder while it is installed in the car all while being disconnected from the slave/clutch half. The process I've outlined and even Tick's method is not ground breaking science or some new invention - it's a common method used by many.

Check out step 9, that is of course after you have completed steps 1-8.

9. Bleed the clutch using normal practices.

So captain obvious, you are correct, once you break the line you now have an open system on the slave side and must bleed it. The whole point was to BLEED THE MASTER CYLINDER to speed up the bleeding process. This was also for guys that have no experience bleeding a master cylinder and the difficulties and time it takes to push those air pockets all the way down the line. This process accomplishes 2 things: 1) MC is completely bled, 2)speeds up the clutch bleeding

This is more of a troll post than anything else. If you follow the steps, you will remove air from the system - end of story. When you depress the check valve on the quick disconnect on step 3, physics will tell you that fluid will travel from high pressure to low pressure - air is no exception and in fluid dynamics...air is actually a fluid.

Ls1247 you can have your opinions or your own favorite method for doing whatever it is you do. However, when you are very incorrect by your statement(s) saying the process I've outlined or Tick's introduces air into the system. Again, it's bleeding the MC first, then bleeding the other half which is the slave/clutch side. I can tell you that many have been using this process with absolutely no issues.

Instead of convincing yourself and trying to convince others that something is wrong, take the time and try to understand the process before submitting a reply. I'm sure someone besides me would explain to you if you asked nicely.

If you would like to debate this further, start your own thread and show how right you are or whatever but leave this one alone - it's been derailed enough with your nonsense.

tmac2419

Would it be mechanicking? I just keep pronouncing the "c" as an "s" sound. I have nothing else to add. I am bored at work.

ryridesmotox

I think its more like "bench annoying" people.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Ever wonder how things got bleed before you and Tick came along?

No, apparently not.