HELP!!! ECU Ripped Out of Bumper - Need Complete Harness
07-24-2014, 04:05 PM
#22
Launching!
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Tempe AZ
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Because the retaining bolt wasn't in place on the lid for the ECU "box", and the horizontal radiator air deflector isn't there because he destroyed it running over an armadillo. Without those bits, the only thing holding the ECU in place was the single clip on the lid of the ECU box - not exactly a secure situation, obviously.
lol cot dayum armadillurs'll git ya every time!!!
07-24-2014, 11:25 PM
#23
LOL!! Thanks for explaining for me. It never jarred loose after having it for 4 years. I never checked to see if it was missing that bolt.
Because the retaining bolt wasn't in place on the lid for the ECU "box", and the horizontal radiator air deflector isn't there because he destroyed it running over an armadillo. Without those bits, the only thing holding the ECU in place was the single clip on the lid of the ECU box - not exactly a secure situation, obviously.
07-24-2014, 11:28 PM
#24
Got it. Thought it was something more special. I have a snap-on meter that beeps when it has a current in the same wire that I can use.
You would ohm based on what you know. If your map sensor signal wire is red but, down at the ecm connector wires you have 5 red wires, you would put one lead of the meter on the map sensor signal wire, then ohm to each red wire at the ecm connector till you get continuity. It would be very tedious but, also may go faster then you think.
07-24-2014, 11:29 PM
#25
Just an update for the interested.
I bought new end clips and new pins. They don't come in for a couple of days. I tried to match the "cut/ripped" wires like puzzle pieces but that didn't work out. I found all the wire diagrams (I think) that will help me through this painfull mess.
Parts cost me $70. I'm going to see if this works but if not I found one brand new for $940 shipped which is better than $1100 which was down from $1400. LOL
If my wiring fails then I will buy a new harness and copy it with my messed up one and will have a used one for sale... LOL or try to return it and hopefully they won't charge a restocking fee. Which still may be worth it.
Will keep y'all posted.
I bought new end clips and new pins. They don't come in for a couple of days. I tried to match the "cut/ripped" wires like puzzle pieces but that didn't work out. I found all the wire diagrams (I think) that will help me through this painfull mess.
Parts cost me $70. I'm going to see if this works but if not I found one brand new for $940 shipped which is better than $1100 which was down from $1400. LOL
If my wiring fails then I will buy a new harness and copy it with my messed up one and will have a used one for sale... LOL or try to return it and hopefully they won't charge a restocking fee. Which still may be worth it.
Will keep y'all posted.
08-04-2014, 08:42 PM
#26
She's alive!!!!!!!!!! Took me 7 hours to get her back together but saved me over $1000! Only problem I have is that it is saying that my battery is not charging but it works fine. My battery light goes off and on every 30 seconds. The DIC says it too but after I press "OK" it never comes back on.
Now to get that "Not Charging" light to go away.
Now to get that "Not Charging" light to go away.
08-05-2014, 12:03 PM
#33
It is. Its the wire code 225 (Generator Turn On Signal) and 23 (Generator Field Duty Cycle Signal) so I routed wires directly to the alternator to the PCM and it went away for a little bit but then it came back. I heard it is a common problem and I just ordered a new pigtail to see if that will work. Wish me luck.
good work. 