Getting parts in
08-07-2014, 04:47 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Ended up getting a bunch of stuff to install with the proceeds from farming this summer back home.
CS motor mounts 95a
CS trans mount
CS sway bar bushings 95a
CS subframe bushings 95a
CS diff bushing 95a
I got a package deal from them so I figured why not. I wanted umi motor mounts really, but for the power my car puts down now, didn't feel the extra expense we was warranted.
LS9 clutch (zero mile take off apparently, we'll see)... eBay score for $260
Katech flywheel (we'll see how bad Brian raped it)
Tilon clutch master
New slave
New OEM Flywheel bolts
Pilot bearing
Speed bleeder
M1 atf for the trans
DOT4 for the clutch
I feel like I'm forgetting something... Can't put my finger on it.
Seriously... If I missed something. Tell me. I'd like to get it all apart and together same day. I have two buddies and access to a lift for a day.
CS motor mounts 95a
CS trans mount
CS sway bar bushings 95a
CS subframe bushings 95a
CS diff bushing 95a
I got a package deal from them so I figured why not. I wanted umi motor mounts really, but for the power my car puts down now, didn't feel the extra expense we was warranted.
LS9 clutch (zero mile take off apparently, we'll see)... eBay score for $260
Katech flywheel (we'll see how bad Brian raped it)
Tilon clutch master
New slave
New OEM Flywheel bolts
Pilot bearing
Speed bleeder
M1 atf for the trans
DOT4 for the clutch
I feel like I'm forgetting something... Can't put my finger on it.
Seriously... If I missed something. Tell me. I'd like to get it all apart and together same day. I have two buddies and access to a lift for a day.
Last edited by ryridesmotox; 08-07-2014 at 09:31 AM.
09-14-2014, 11:39 PM
#2
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Thread Starter
Well, I guest it went pretty well today. After getting everything (parts wise) in that I needed we went ahead and got to it around 9am. We stopped about an hour ago. A huge thanks to my amigo Shayne for sticking it out through 100°+ weather all day with me.
Items accomplished:
Rear subframe bushings
Diff bushing
Motor mounts
LS9 clutch/Katech flywheel installed
Trans mount
New amsoil atf in the old girl.
Damn that seems like almost nothing on paper, why did it take 11 hours... Oh yea we were on my garage floor since my friend with the lift wasn't able to help. Such is life, I'm getting a 2 post in my next garage for sure. After today, it will be money well spent.
Things left tomorrow...
Shifter
Clutch master from philistine
Drive shaft reinstall
Headers and exhaust
Bleed the brakes and the new clutch master/slave
The pilot bearing and rear main were still in great shape. Based on evidence I found, I believe that the drive line had been worked on in the past... #1 the driveshaft clocking was off by 1 hole at the diff yoke (as apparent by the orange witness marks on the yoke), #2 the diff yoke bolts were clearly quite marred, enough to where I had trouble getting my Allen socket to fit #3 the trans case and bell housing were quite marred as well, thankfully no cracks #4 the pilot and rear main seemed to be quite new. I have to look up what serial number is what gen of diff to confirm but it may have gotten a new one in the past.
Most things went fairly smooth. The trans and bell housing fought us for every inch on the way back in, by then we were tired and pretty well exhausted (it was about 105° today here). We ended up prevailing though. By then it was like 730 so we just decided to hang the rear end and stop for the night. That way all the heavy lifting and 2 person work is out of the way for tomorrow so I can button up the little things.
The motor mount on the passenger side was leaking very slightly. The drivers motor mount was completely ripped on the top half, it made a mess on my garage floor, and to think I almost left them for another day. The trans mount was pretty well dead, the addition of the new motor mount height made it a little tough to get the bell housing on. We ended up dimpling a few places in the firewall but it ended up going in. That twin disk is pretty hefty so that made bell housing install difficult as well. I'm glad I got the LS9 but I think install of a single disk would have been WAY easier, oh well its back together.
So anyways, after tomorrow it will feel like a whole new car. I'm stoked to get it done tomorrow. I want to take it down off the jackstands and ramps and see how good the thing handles.
Items accomplished:
Rear subframe bushings
Diff bushing
Motor mounts
LS9 clutch/Katech flywheel installed
Trans mount
New amsoil atf in the old girl.
Damn that seems like almost nothing on paper, why did it take 11 hours... Oh yea we were on my garage floor since my friend with the lift wasn't able to help. Such is life, I'm getting a 2 post in my next garage for sure. After today, it will be money well spent.
Things left tomorrow...
Shifter
Clutch master from philistine
Drive shaft reinstall
Headers and exhaust
Bleed the brakes and the new clutch master/slave
The pilot bearing and rear main were still in great shape. Based on evidence I found, I believe that the drive line had been worked on in the past... #1 the driveshaft clocking was off by 1 hole at the diff yoke (as apparent by the orange witness marks on the yoke), #2 the diff yoke bolts were clearly quite marred, enough to where I had trouble getting my Allen socket to fit #3 the trans case and bell housing were quite marred as well, thankfully no cracks #4 the pilot and rear main seemed to be quite new. I have to look up what serial number is what gen of diff to confirm but it may have gotten a new one in the past.
Most things went fairly smooth. The trans and bell housing fought us for every inch on the way back in, by then we were tired and pretty well exhausted (it was about 105° today here). We ended up prevailing though. By then it was like 730 so we just decided to hang the rear end and stop for the night. That way all the heavy lifting and 2 person work is out of the way for tomorrow so I can button up the little things.
The motor mount on the passenger side was leaking very slightly. The drivers motor mount was completely ripped on the top half, it made a mess on my garage floor, and to think I almost left them for another day. The trans mount was pretty well dead, the addition of the new motor mount height made it a little tough to get the bell housing on. We ended up dimpling a few places in the firewall but it ended up going in. That twin disk is pretty hefty so that made bell housing install difficult as well. I'm glad I got the LS9 but I think install of a single disk would have been WAY easier, oh well its back together.
So anyways, after tomorrow it will feel like a whole new car. I'm stoked to get it done tomorrow. I want to take it down off the jackstands and ramps and see how good the thing handles.
Last edited by ryridesmotox; 09-15-2014 at 12:02 AM.
09-15-2014, 10:29 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
I'm honestly more worried about my starter. I need to heat shield that bitch. One of the connectors was kinda harsh looking from the header heat. Gotta get on that sooner rather than later.
09-15-2014, 11:35 AM
#6
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Had the same issue. I went with the MSD starter. Pricey and maybe unnecessary considering you can move to the 6.0 truck starter for much cheaper. Cut the burnt connector off and replace it with your typical ring terminal. The starter would just click when it was getting bad. Eventually it would start though.
09-16-2014, 12:16 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
Well everything us together... The back seat is still out from removing the shocks but otherwise, everything is good to go. Except I must have forgot to plug in the vehicle speed sensor. I git no speedo and my abs light is on and service stability system comes on. Pretty sure that's what's wrong. Otherwise I have a real problem I missed somewhere along the way.
Took it for a spin, initial impressions... Completely speechless. The clutch master is firm but buttery smooth, the LS9 feels like it was born there. The flywheel difference is the biggest stand out. Before I could literally turn the key off, pull it out, send a text and then the motor would stop. Now the key is off and the motor stops. And now that the motor is actually attached to good motor mounts, it feels sturdy. The trans shifting is night and day with everything. I didn't have a single issue getting into gear. If anything I went in a few times to first and reverse to to make sure I wasn't dreaming. The rear end feels so much better already. I didn't get on it, I just drove it around the neighborhood and down a main road. I'm trying to be nice to my clutch for a little bit first anyhow. But in turns it feels much better. I may just leave the rear seat out lol... It sounds pretty badass with it out.
Also, as soon as I was dine, the heat sickness set in. Never again in the summer will I ever pick up a wrench in this heat. 105°+ for 2 days, drenched in sweat, puking my guts out... Fuuuuuuuuuck that
Took it for a spin, initial impressions... Completely speechless. The clutch master is firm but buttery smooth, the LS9 feels like it was born there. The flywheel difference is the biggest stand out. Before I could literally turn the key off, pull it out, send a text and then the motor would stop. Now the key is off and the motor stops. And now that the motor is actually attached to good motor mounts, it feels sturdy. The trans shifting is night and day with everything. I didn't have a single issue getting into gear. If anything I went in a few times to first and reverse to to make sure I wasn't dreaming. The rear end feels so much better already. I didn't get on it, I just drove it around the neighborhood and down a main road. I'm trying to be nice to my clutch for a little bit first anyhow. But in turns it feels much better. I may just leave the rear seat out lol... It sounds pretty badass with it out.
Also, as soon as I was dine, the heat sickness set in. Never again in the summer will I ever pick up a wrench in this heat. 105°+ for 2 days, drenched in sweat, puking my guts out... Fuuuuuuuuuck that
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09-16-2014, 12:35 AM
#8
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Also, anyone have a torque spec for the two bolts that hold the driveshaft carrier bearing in the middle... I got everything else but I couldn't find a spec for them so I just got em in there good and tight for now.
11-08-2014, 12:56 AM
#11
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Thread Starter
Bump... Didn't want to make another thread.
My buddy is going a different direction with his build. So I'm going to be getting a cam soon. New, never installed, custom comp grind... 235/242, 620/593 111 LSA. New pushrods, trunion upgraded rockers, BTR dual springs w/ Ti retainers, LS2 timing set, melling oil pump, and timing cover. And he's gonna gimme a hand with install. And yea, I'm aware of the magnitude of this thing. Its my daily for right now too. My neighbors are going to LOVE me.
I'm gonna see if the stock injectors will be alright. If not I'll get a set rebuilt or get some new ones.
My buddy is going a different direction with his build. So I'm going to be getting a cam soon. New, never installed, custom comp grind... 235/242, 620/593 111 LSA. New pushrods, trunion upgraded rockers, BTR dual springs w/ Ti retainers, LS2 timing set, melling oil pump, and timing cover. And he's gonna gimme a hand with install. And yea, I'm aware of the magnitude of this thing. Its my daily for right now too. My neighbors are going to LOVE me.
I'm gonna see if the stock injectors will be alright. If not I'll get a set rebuilt or get some new ones.
11-08-2014, 03:09 PM
#14
NO.
They have their place though. Titanium as a material for retainers are great for a lot of abuse for a short duration. Meaning, it can take handle the higher revs or high boost applications, aggressive cams etc. The material is NOT suited for longevity due to it's susceptibility to fail under cyclic fatigue.
I'm sure it's common to routinely inspect retainers with high duty driving or boosted applications. Titanium retainers are absolutely required with some builds but it also increases the frequency of inspections since they are not an item that is used for longevity - basically a shorter lifetime.
Regarding springs, never a fan of dual springs. I understand the concept and redundancy but the weaker spring can/has failed with some applications.
So to sum it up for me...dual springs-never, Ti retainers - application specific and routine follow-up visual inspections/replacement schedule.
They have their place though. Titanium as a material for retainers are great for a lot of abuse for a short duration. Meaning, it can take handle the higher revs or high boost applications, aggressive cams etc. The material is NOT suited for longevity due to it's susceptibility to fail under cyclic fatigue.
I'm sure it's common to routinely inspect retainers with high duty driving or boosted applications. Titanium retainers are absolutely required with some builds but it also increases the frequency of inspections since they are not an item that is used for longevity - basically a shorter lifetime.
Regarding springs, never a fan of dual springs. I understand the concept and redundancy but the weaker spring can/has failed with some applications.
So to sum it up for me...dual springs-never, Ti retainers - application specific and routine follow-up visual inspections/replacement schedule.
11-08-2014, 03:40 PM
#15
I didn't do enough research and fell for the hype. Got Lunati dual springs, which are overkill for my cam, but they're already in there, so meh. When it's time to replace, which isn't for another 10k+ miles, I'll go with PAC beehives or similar. Tempting to switch them out early, though.
11-08-2014, 05:31 PM
#16
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Thread Starter
I didn't do enough research and fell for the hype. Got Lunati dual springs, which are overkill for my cam, but they're already in there, so meh. When it's time to replace, which isn't for another 10k+ miles, I'll go with PAC beehives or similar. Tempting to switch them out early, though.
11-08-2014, 07:31 PM
#18
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Thread Starter
Yea I'll have to see how it works. I'll be checking the valvetrain constantly for wear. Hopefully it ends up alright. Its a local speed shop's custom grind and they use it fairly regularly with this combo. So I'm not too worried.
