azn2dmax

iTrader: (33)

BTW I have a 2004 V.

As many have you saw I ripped my PCM out by running over it when it fell out of my bumper. I got it all together but the only thing that was messed up was the DIC would display "Battery Not Charging" and the battery light would blink a couple of times and would turn off but would do the blink cycle every 10 seconds.

I tested my alternator and it was fine. It was keeping the car alive after I disconnected the battery while the car was running and it stayed between 13.4-13.9 volts while I was driving.

I read a lot that this was a common problem with a lot of LSX cars for some reason. The culprit with my problem was the pigtail connector at the alternator. After a wile the wire inside of the connector goes bad and loses connectivity.

All you have to do is buy these items below. You can use any color 16/18g wire but I choose to buy a couple feet of gray and a couple feet of orange wire online. (Hard to find them in stores) to keep the wire tracing easier.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360886243550?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
a note about the above ^^^ kit. The plug that comes with it isn't notched out like the one that is in our car so you will have to take a utility knife and match with the old pigtail.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-LS1-PCM-Connector-Pins-12084913-for-Camaro-Firebird-Corvette-GM-25-PCS-/331264326456?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d20e47b38&vxp=mtr
- Once you have these parts remove the plug from behind the alternator. You can completely cut it off too.
- Remove the PCM and the green connector
- Look for pin number 15 which is circuit number 225 ALT TERM L the color is orange. Remove it from the connector.
- Look for pin number 75 which is circuit number 23 GEN FIELD DUTY SIGNAL the color is gray. Remove it from the connector

Now with your parts make wire harness instead of trying to route it into the OEM wire harness. You need to make it about 2 ft long so you can route it with no problems. I made mine and wrapped it with 1/4" split loom to protect it. Reconnect everything in reverse order and that pesty "Battery Not Charging" and battery light should be fixed.

You can also buy these connectors instead of the first link and reuse your connection to the alternator.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-Metri-Pack-150-Electrical-Terminals-20-16-Gauge-/400327499760?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3560dff0&vxp=mtr
Hope this helps.

philistine

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for this! I don't have this problem but it helps because I'm going to be doing a "Big 3" and scooping up one of those Mechman alternators:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201096350210...84.m1423.l2649

Making my parts list and adding your part numbers.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

Will that fit LS2?

philistine

iTrader: (2)

If you are referring to the alternator here is another listing for a LS2:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-06-07-Ca...-/191190417163

Their stuff seems to be the real deal but gotta pay to play.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

Yeah well it looks like $255 for AC Delco on Rock Auto and I usually like to upgrade something it it breaks. I would only buy it if mine died. Although I think there is a cheaper replacement that isn't V specific or something?

philistine

iTrader: (2)

It's not about replacement of OEM standards with that alternator. It's all about going far,far above and beyond. The Mechman is a bulletproof alternator that accepts larger wiring for "Big 3" upgrades. The amps that this alternator can provide is almost double the OEM. You get what you pay for...there is nothing on the market that competes with it.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

I like mine

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

I wasn't clear in my post. I meant I would buy the Mechman because it's only $150 more than OEM replacement and therefore I would upgrade if I were going to bother; but for argument's sake I was saying I think there is a cheaper OEM replacement.

rand49er

I get the "Battery Not Charging" message occasionally. Thanks for posting up a solution.

IdriveaV

iTrader: (5)

why not just replace the connector?
Standard makes a replacement connector that I used that works fine.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

As a side note, while cruising on the highway at 70mph (1900-2000rpm), my voltage was a mere 13.4 with headlights on and a 450W subwoofer. It's still within spec, but seems a bit low.

azn2dmax

iTrader: (33)

I guess you could do that too. I tried just using the end piece but the wires were too short and it was easier just to make a whole new 2 wire separate harness. You only have about 3" of wire that you can use to splice into and the space is very cramped.

Also when I ripped my PCM out it split the wire somewhere in the harness and not at the ends more then the 3".

azn2dmax

iTrader: (33)

Also the way I did it was a direct line with no breaks/butt connectors used.

So I guess you can use this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271528807301