azn2dmax

iTrader: (33)

Is it advisable to put a 230ish cam on a 165K mile V? What are the cons? When I went to a speed shop and I told them how many miles I had they were kind of hesitant on doing it without pulling the heads and replacing the lifter trays.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

Well, the bottom end on these motors are beasts, with some people pulling 250k-300k miles out of them. I don't know the actual limits of the lifters, but it's never a *bad* idea to upgrade them. I'm sure there are other people who can weigh in with high mileage experience (I'm only at 77k). Basically, if cost isn't an issue, I would refresh the whole top end.

AndyIsLost

iTrader: (1)

I had an MS3 in a 165k mile LS1 and it ran just fine until I sold it, wouldn't even worry with a well taken care of LS6

jmargo

iTrader: (10)

With the miles I would change out the oil pump and timing chain as a minimum.

ryridesmotox

Personally, I'd at least do an oil pump, timing chain, pushrods, lifters, rocker trunion upgrade, lifter trays, and a new harmonic balancer (especially if the one you have is original). And I'd send the heads to get machined or at least have a valve job done, valve seats cleaned up, new seals put in and a set of ARP head studs. That's basically a brand new top end. As stated before, I think the bottom ends are pretty bullet resistant. They are happy to go a long time with proper preventative maintenance.

That's just my opinion though. I don't like going into something that far and not replacing or at the very least inspecting every piece that was supposed to be reused.

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

First thing on my list would be a compression and leak down test. That will tell you the general health of the rings and heads. If all checks out then I would have no issue camming it. Generally when you do a cam you do a new oil pump, ls2 timing chains, valvesprings and pushrods anyways. Personally I wouldnt bother pulling the heads but it sure would be good insurance if you are looking to get another 50k+ miles out of it.

Dont bother with head studs if you do pull the heads. It is zero benefit for an n/a engine and if you decide to boost it I highly doubt you will be doing it on that engine anyways.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

I'd do the whole top end or don't mess with it all....do the waterpump and hoses while you're at it. be careful with the heater hoses, you can't just buy the 2 smaller ones that go form the waterpump to the hard lines, you have to order the whole thing from GM or piece them together from several different pre-formed hoses to make it work....

handyandy496

iTrader: (9)

While your at it resurface and use a .040 head gasket for better quench and compression and use a new higher pressure/volume pump and run a 40 weight oil.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Pulling the heads to replace lifters is a good idea. With the cam being the base and impetus of the valvetrain having those items fresh will be great piece of mind. The other parts of the valvetrain have to be replaced anyway. It's a good time to clean out the heads too. Replacement head gaskets and head bolts are the only additional parts you'll need to replace. I cleaned and reused my stock exhaust manifold gaskets with success. I also reused the valve cover and intake manifold gaskets.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

As you can see, your simple $800 cam project has turned into a couple grand or more . But it's for the best.

93hatch

iTrader: (9)

Please list the benefits of a higher volume oil pump

05RavenV

Father in law did a head and cam package on his at 130k I think. Vengeance racing. Don't know the specs on it but I think he has put 20k miles on it since then with no problems. His numbers on a dynojet are 425 to the tires. And a year later he dynod the same numbers a year later. Hope that helps a little

rand49er

Cool father in law.

05RavenV

He is and he's the big reason I got my V.

coltboostin

The reason they are saying pull the heads is the higher the miles, the higher the likelihood that the lifters could "fall in" as the little tab that holds them in gets weaker over time, like any thin spring steal.

I get sketched putting a cam in any 150+ mile Ls, but I have only seen lifters fall in once on a truck motor with 220. That happens your at minimum pulling the pan and going fishing, if not pulling the motor!

InfrareV

That isn't why, once the rocker arms are off you can insert dowel rods into the motor to hold the lifters up before you pull the cam.

Even if you had brand new lifter trays I wouldn't pull the cam without the rods in, that's just asking for trouble.

ryridesmotox

The reason I would replace that stuff is because its got 160k+ miles. Lifters go bad after a while, trays can wear out, valve seals, seats, rocker bearings, springs... They are all under increased stress. They should all be replaced with proper equipment. Its cheaper and easier to go in and do it all at once than to half *** it and have to get back in there again.

05RavenV

http://vengeanceracing.net/index.php...lications.html


It can be as simple of a build as you want or complex.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Agreed. Replace the lifters the first time around. They're hard-working parts.

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

Mileage means squat really.. Like mentioned and in any type of performance work you should always check the health of the engine... (Could be a bike quad or moped) that will tell u where u stand. If all checks out then u can do anything u want to it just do the research on the motor you are modding and do it correctly.

I built a turbo gsr headed b16 a few years ago for a friend that had 220k on it and it's boosting 23psi to this day with a stock bottom end. Research is key to anything