Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

What causes rear ends to blow?

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Old 12-12-2014, 01:46 PM
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Default What causes rear ends to blow?

After reading alot, it seems the rear ends give out alot on these cars. What's the part which gives out? Or is it the wheel hop which messes things up?

I have a '06 with upgraded creative steel axles, does that help to keep my rear end from blowing up?
Old 12-12-2014, 02:53 PM
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Lazy/cheap GM engineering is the reason. '06 rears are decently strong, just don't let it hop a lot.
Old 12-12-2014, 03:02 PM
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I mean is there a specific weak point which can be beefed up? Just saying the whole rear end is junk doesn't really give me much info.
Old 12-12-2014, 03:03 PM
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Unless you can redesign the entire case, no, nothing to beef up.
Old 12-12-2014, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by itsdaveonline
Just saying the whole rear end is junk doesn't really give me much info.
See, you know more than you think.

Poly cradle, trailing arm, and diff bushings, upgraded axles, a 3rd or 4th gen diff, and an intelligent right foot is about as far as you can go before you pull then entire thing and go 8.8" or 9".
Old 12-12-2014, 04:14 PM
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Wheelhop causes stresses in the diff case that exceed its strength.

Even eliminating WH will not 100% protect the diff if you do too many burnouts, but it will help.

As mentioned, going 8.8"/9" seems to be the only real "cure."
Old 12-12-2014, 04:28 PM
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Shitty German engineering is the root cause. American made diffs don't do that, not under OE power anyhow.
Old 12-12-2014, 04:56 PM
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so longbars or a form of them are not offerec for the our car im taking it.
Old 12-12-2014, 05:13 PM
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Blame the GM bean counters.

If you do the work and look at the GETRAG specifications for the diff, it is underrated for the torque the LS motors are capable of.

The big reason why they got away with it is no one died, or the # that died wasn't big enough, unlike the ignition switches.

Update:

Looks like all the tech specs on the GETRAG 645 have been removed from their website.

The CTS-V FAQ's just lists an old link that doesn't work.


I will search my old HD's as I think I downloaded the specs at one time.

Last edited by heavymetals; 12-12-2014 at 06:07 PM.
Old 12-12-2014, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by itsdaveonline
After reading alot, it seems the rear ends give out alot on these cars. What's the part which gives out? Or is it the wheel hop which messes things up?

I have a '06 with upgraded creative steel axles, does that help to keep my rear end from blowing up?
CORRECTION:
If the axles are plugged in to a Getrag diff.....they aren't from us. We only sell axles for the 8.8 swap.

Originally Posted by heavymetals
Blame the GM bean counters.

If you do the work and look at the GETRAG specifications for the diff, it is underrated for the torque the LS motors are capable of.
True: GM could've picked a different diff from the Getrag catalog that would have stood up to the LS engines, but would have cost more.
Old 12-12-2014, 08:13 PM
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You could bulletproof the case, and then spend your time snapping stock axles every run. You could bulletproof the axles, and snap the case at the ears.

You'd need a full swap to be able to hop and NOT break anything.
Old 12-12-2014, 08:41 PM
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The cool part is that such a short thread has such complete info. The case is weak. The axles are weak. The engine is not. Solutions are available but band-aids stink.
Old 12-12-2014, 09:32 PM
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Tc performance makes a nice steel girdle. If i were on my oem and money was tight... i will say cradle bushings for me had the largest improvement
Old 12-12-2014, 10:35 PM
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Have hopped bad quite a few times when it was wet out- get off the gas, and learn what causes it on your car. In my '06 it's only a problem if I were to try to do a standing burn out or too much gas when wet out.

If you don't hop it, you're probably fine long term. 115k now on my stock diff. I wouldn't replace stuff if you're not abusing it.
Old 12-12-2014, 10:35 PM
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Have hopped bad quite a few times when it was wet out- get off the gas, and learn what causes it on your car. In my '06 it's only a problem if I were to try to do a standing burn out or too much gas when wet out.

If you don't hop it, you're probably fine long term. 115k now on my stock diff. I wouldn't replace stuff if you're not abusing it.
Old 12-12-2014, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Creative Steel
CORRECTION:
If the axles are plugged in to a Getrag diff.....they aren't from us. We only sell axles for the 8.8 swap.



True: GM could've picked a different diff from the Getrag catalog that would have stood up to the LS engines, but would have cost more.

I am able to buy a diff out of a t-bird for a good price. what else do i need from u guys to complete the swap?
Old 12-13-2014, 12:58 AM
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If you don't hop it, you're probably fine long term.
With stock power maybe. Mine was getting bad prior to the EForce. After it went in a hurry. Less than a half dozen burnouts but a ton of aggressive driving. Keep in mind this is all on a gen IV rear.
Old 12-13-2014, 09:54 AM
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I'm going to go out on a limb here & say . . . physics.
Old 12-13-2014, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 88BlackZ-51
I am able to buy a diff out of a t-bird for a good price. what else do i need from u guys to complete the swap?
There's a whole thread here called DIY 8.8 conversion or something with all those details.

Edit, here ha go:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1592297-diy-ford-8-8-into-v1-build-thread.html
Old 12-13-2014, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Sssnake
With stock power maybe. Mine was getting bad prior to the EForce. After it went in a hurry. Less than a half dozen burnouts but a ton of aggressive driving. Keep in mind this is all on a gen IV rear.
Ok, so you broke a gen 4. I'm having a debate with someone who will remain unnamed for now who claims that NOBODY has broken a 4th gen diff...I think I've counted at least 2 people and that's without really searching yet.


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