ryridesmotox

Snake...

I hear all your points and share all those concerns. But at the end of the day, we would still have a stock pump with stock ceiling, unless I read the post wrong.. Having a 09+ pump would still be an upgrade if that's what we're going with. But, when you go boost, you just need more. Having that stuff in the engine bay is less than ideal, but there isn't a whole lot of other places. You can't put it in the cabin, under that car espouses it to debris, so its either gotta be a setup like you are describing or like I am. I'm doing return style on a dw300 with E85. Would the pulse style be able to floe enough fuel?

That's a good point. Lol

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

What makes everyone think a V2 tank has a possibility of working with V1 cradle if you can't run V2 cradle with V1 tank? I guess there's always a small chance, but it sounds like the chances are low?

DMM

What definitive evidence do you have that it won't? I plan on finding out first hand myself after my nieces birthday party today, however I have never seen anyone post pictures and measurements. If you have anything concrete, please share so I don't have to waste my time. If not....

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

Just thinking out loud, really. Then again, most people were interested in V2 cradle as opposed to fuel tank in order to run the V2 diff, so this is something nobody else talked about until now.

DMM

Okay, we may have a winner here. I only had 30 mins to get the pics taken etc and I was doing everything by myself, so it's kind of hard to hold a tape and phone to take pics etc. Anyhow, I know the top of the tank is essentially the same from photo's and the Evap components are of the same diameter and in the same place. The cradle is different, however the 2014 fuel tank has been widened a bit and takes the place of where the fuel filter resides on the V1. They are the exact same length at 28" and will readily bolt in place using the same straps etc.

I need to take measurements again just to make sure, however I think it is doable.


2014


2004


Again:




2014 L/F Subframe bolt to fuel tank (to front of car)


2004 L/F Subframe bolt to fuel tank (to front of car)


2014 L/F Subframe bolt to fuel tank (in towards center)


2004 L/F Subframe bolt to fuel tank (in towards center)

joe_shmoe

I'm very interested, and thanks for exploring options for the group!
What do you think about the front diff. bolt on the V1? In the first two pics, it looks like the 2014 tank is a little longer in the middle (their diff bolt appears to be closer towards the half-shaft).

DMM

They are both the exact same length at 28" or so. They both use the exact same attachment points and straps from what I can tell. Since my father has a CTS-4 the AWD transfer case is where the resonator should be, so it's pushed back and obscures the view in the pics. Also, the pics are not very good, some of them are misleading. They were taken at almost midnight with the cars in the air and me laying on my back on a creeper lol. The gaps seem off bc of the lighting I guess.

The pic that shows the L/F cradle bolt to the tank on the 2014 is about 10.5" where the 2004 is 11" (to center of the bolt). However if you look closely, you'll see on the 2004 there is 1/2" or more gap between the sub frame and the tank.

DMM

I'll try to make a jig from cardboard or something if I have time today. If not, it'll have to wait until I get back in about a week or two.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

That is a lot of work...thanks for your efforts!

Sssnake

I'm not sure it this is good news or bad...

I just got the exhaust where I like it and don't want to drop it again Seriously, thanks Damian! I may just have to hit up the local pick a part.

DMM

Sorry, I never got the chance to have a second look and I'm in San Diego now, so I'll be about 2-3 weeks until I can take some more measurements.

Sssnake

The solution Carl researched was built around either single or dual DW300s so the flow capability would be improved.

Don't make it sound like a hardship. San Diego is nice this time of year.

I need to go by the local salvage yard anyway (I need a used bucket seat for my iRacing setup). I also need to close the loop with Carl. I sent him an email this weekend that will likely shape what path forward I chose. Having said all of that, if the local yard has a CHEAP tank it will in all likelihood go home with me. If I don't use it in the cadi I can use the bucket assembly in the boat (I think - have to check dimensions).

ryridesmotox

San Diego is a hardship this time of year. Its like 50-60°F and all the women walk around in shorts or skirts with ugg boots on... Its the stupidest thing I've ever seen. And no one here can drive I swear to the sweet 9lbs6oz Baby Jesus.

Becker

iTrader: (4)

Discovered by the Germans in 1904, they named it San Diego, which of course in German means ‘a whale’s vagina.

DMM

I've had some down time at work and think I may have a very inexpensive solution to our fueling dilemma.

Rather than deal with the fuel module, jet pump, and the rest of the parts which aren't suited to performance... How about we focus on the OE parts which do work very well. Namely the fuel pickup that is located on the drivers side of the tank.

When I pulled my tank, the drivers sump was bone dry, which means the pickup is very effective at pulling fuel, and it has a 1/2" supply line.

What if we were to install a second pick up in the passenger sump, doing away with all of the fuel module limitations, and use them solely as a pickup for
a remote pump. This way we could T both of them together and have either a triple -8 Y block or a -8 to -10 Y block feeding an exterior fuel pump where the current filter now resides. A low restriction filter could easily fit in the -8 or -10 supply and if the pump is PWM controlled we don't have to worry about return lines and regulators.

Just a thought.

Sssnake

I like the thought but I am not sure how cheap it will be.

If I am following you correctly then we would need to source an additional "secondary fuel module". For some reason (I think it is because it includes the fuel level sending unit) that part is out of sight ($210 at rock auto http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cata...co_MU1579.html). At a junk yard it would probably be a ton cheaper.

Now you need an external fuel pump. The DW350IL would be plenty for most of us. I thought finding a spot for the fuel filter might be problematic but this little sucker http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-650103/overview/ is pretty small. You could come out of the tank with a single -8 over to the filter and then on to the pump. From the pump run a flexible -8 over to the stock lines with one of the converters to -8. It sounds like it should work and keeps you from having to run a ton of current (and therefore heat) into the tank.

I am liking it so far. I'll see what Carl thinks as well.

DMM

This was my thinking as well. I envisioned a dual -8 to -10 Y block in the tank (a -10 100 micron filter could even be in the tank) and exit the tank as a -10 line to feed an Aeromotive A1000 series fuel pump mounted in place of the existing fuel filter and controlled by PWM. The A1000 had a -8 feed inlet and a -6 supply outlet so we'd need a 3/8" to -6 adapter as well.

I've seen the float/pickup assembly as low as $15 on eBay.

Edit: Just looked up the DW pump you listed. That thing is bad ***! Def the way to go.

Sssnake

I talked to Carl and he was concerned about issues with one side going dry. If that happened then the pump would pull air as well (path of least resistance). The equivalent of an electrical short circuit just in a hydraulic system. Then the engine goes boom.

If you had a check valve on the feed from each side of the tank then you might be able to do this. However, that is a LOT of faith in the operation of a check valve. I'm not sure it would matter that much for me as I almost never run below a 1/4 tank anyway but you never want to engineer a system that has a glaring weak link. I would feel better about the check valves if the fuel filter was before the valve to ensure we didn't get trash in the check valve. However, that ups the cost and complexity just one more step.

I looked at trying to do some type of jet pump for isolation but didn't really find anything that I thought might work (hydraulics is not my field of expertise).

BTW - good find on the float/pickup. I just did a quick search and the prices were, like I said, out of sight.

DMM

I understand the concern, however the pickups should pull evenly rather that having one side run dry or slosh. I don't think a check valve would be a viable solution here, however a bit of fuel tank foam to dampen any sloshing may very well be. And that stuff is about $7 for a huge brick...so maybe $14? (Just looked and the methanol stuff is 2x more)

I'm going to work it a bit and see how viable this is. I really like the idea of no heat being added to the fuel in the tank.

I'll add that when Holley finally releases their hydramat I'd already be setup for it. Just reconnect the -8 to the hydramat and done.

Sssnake

Understood but you about Murphy right?

I wish the hydramat stuff was available now. I would be all over it. It looks like mid February for the release of the first mat. It has a -10 male fitting and it is fairly large...

I'm not sure why a pair of check valves wouldn't work though. I may pick up a couple just to play with.