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There's a fuse on the driver's side panel under rear seat that has turn-on power. However, be aware it only works in the 'on' position and not the ACC position of the key. No big deal really. I'll be doing a sub mounted from the bottom onto a plywood or MDF ring screwed into the stock opening. Can't fit some subs from the top cause of glass.
Would it be possible for you guys that have done plywood reinforcing and bottom mounting, to snap some pics of your setup? Im curious to see how it all looks.
Early rear view. The gaps between the body and baffle (areas where you can see tan foam) have since been filled to prevent cancellation.
Total weight from the 15"s and the baffle is less than 30 lbs. I also lost some weight when I removed some of the seat backing to get more bass through the seats.
Would it be possible for you guys that have done plywood reinforcing and bottom mounting, to snap some pics of your setup? Im curious to see how it all looks.
I didn't go that route in my car but from experience in other cars I can tell you it works very well. I usually cover the bottom of the baffle with automotive carpet (much like my baffle above) so that all you see is carpet and the sub. The trick is to get the sub hole in the baffle line up with the sub hole in the car's rear deck. One way to do this easily is to use tape to seal the gap between the rear deck and baffle when spraying the foam insulation (watch out this stuff does make a mess). That should get you a rough opening mating the sub baffle hole to the sub rear deck hole. Come in later and trim with utility knife to smooth the surface. Be sure to paint the exposed foam at the very end. The foam will deteriorate with UV exposure otherwise.
One other tip: only use the minimally expanding foam or it will warp the panel while curing.
Seems like a lot of work to make the rear deck and stock location to work for a marginal upgrade, IMO. Nothing beats a traditional spec'd sealed enclosure. FWIW, I have two 10" JL's in a custom sealed box, Removed the Bose sub to create a trunk vent into the cabin, and after some careful planning, my total hit to trunk cargo space is minimal. I've got younger kids, and more often than not, my trunk is filled to the trim with stuff for family road trips.
In reference to reinforcing the deck, I had to dampen the entire length of the deck with dynmat just to stop the resonation at even moderate volume levels. My subs aren't even mechanically coupled to the deck like some of the plans talked about here, so I can only imagine what it would take to do it properly for a true infinite baffle install.
I bought an infinity reference for the purpose but it was too deep to go in without pulling thout back window. I did fin a Kicker 10" that fit (don't remember the model number) I did have to widen the opening a bit. For the amp, I got a small alpine that has speaker level inputs that I was able to mount upside down on the rear deck.
I ended up removing it and putting that infinity in a small sealed box in the trunk instead. Sounds better that way.
I'm a little late to this and I know nothing about this stuff, but is there a sub that will fit that can use the stock sub input and sound even a tad better? I'm not looking to make everything rattle, just a tad more bass would be nice.
I'm a little late to this and I know nothing about this stuff, but is there a sub that will fit that can use the stock sub input and sound even a tad better? I'm not looking to make everything rattle, just a tad more bass would be nice.
There isn't a "drop in" replacement driver that is available that will make it sound better without adding an amplifier to drive it.
You could look at being creative and mount one of these below the existing hole.
IMO. Nothing beats a traditional spec'd sealed enclosure.
There are quite a few IASCA and MECCA champions that would disagree
I had to dampen the entire length of the deck with dynmat just to stop the resonation at even moderate volume levels
The back deck is definitely a vibration waiting to happen. Dampening material is a good idea but I am from the school of thought that solid sheets of dampener are not required. I have tried both complete coverage and sporadic coverage. IMO the sporadic works as well IF you hit the problem areas. If you miss it is another story. As the deck is not hard to get to I just used dampener is the problem areas.
In reference to reinforcing the deck, I had to dampen the entire length of the deck with dynmat just to stop the resonation at even moderate volume levels. My subs aren't even mechanically coupled to the deck like some of the plans talked about here, so I can only imagine what it would take to do it properly for a true infinite baffle install.
My rear deck only has ONE freq that makes it resonate, but I've stuck a bunch of dynamat on it, not entire sheets though. Several sheets cut into shape and spread out between the deck, decklid, and behind the plate.
IMO, it sounds fantastic. Hardly anyone outside of the car can hear any bump, but inside it sounds like a car with 4 18"s next to you blasting full. I do want to give power to the door speakers to give them a lil more umph, but I'm VERY pleased with the sound.
Here's the amp:
The greatest thing is I have about 99% of my trunk available. The only thing is stacking things up, but I can get all my band gear in the rear (except my 4x12 cabinet):
I have a pretty deep 8" sub in mine that I salvaged from a previous setup. It's an old school Elemental Designs sub that managed to miss all of their quality issues. This little E8A is a tank that has been serving me well for over 10 years.
I mounted it to a baffle placed on TOP of the deck and put some peel'n'seal on the problem areas
To fit the base of the sub through the opening I loosely put the baffle around the sub and put the face of the sub against the rear glass and slid it down at an angle into the opening. Then I secured the baffle to the upright studs and then used a 1/4" socket with a bit to tighten the screws around the sub to the baffle.
There is weather stripping between the baffle and the rear deck and the baffle and the sub.
I think I have one of those in my audio stash. I was going to use it in an SUV as a midbass but it was too muddy in the higher freqs. It probably sounds pretty good in the V as a sub.
I think I have one of those in my audio stash. I was going to use it in an SUV as a midbass but it was too muddy in the higher freqs. It probably sounds pretty good in the V as a sub.
Yeah, that's not too surprising. There's too much mass for high freq use. IIRC i think this thing has like 13mm of excursion, which is a stretch for an 8". I originally had this in the eD spec vented enclosure tuned at 30 Hz and it did great, but the box itself had like 8 MDF vent pieces and was even heavier after I had it sprayed with Line-X. It does OK in this setup as long as I don't crank the volume and bottom it out. I don't think it was ever intended for IB use.
My rear deck only has ONE freq that makes it resonate, but I've stuck a bunch of dynamat on it,
I've got more subwoofer surface area and power and definitely more resonance, but handled it in a similar fashion. I don't have any pictures of the material installed between the rear window deck and carpeted interior to stop the noise up there as well.
01-15-2015, 10:20 AM
Just a lil bit snipped & it dropped right in.
