Those with T-56 bronze isolators cups, please check in.
03-08-2015, 10:57 AM
#1
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Those with T-56 bronze isolators cups, please check in. About to do a clutch having already ordered many parts.
Looking to compile results/impressions from those who replaced their shift isolator cup with a bronze unit ,(tick,gearbox,etc?) Would also like to hear from those that replaced with a new plastic cup or inspected theirs and did nothing.
I was under the impression that bronze cups from "Gearbox" have been ill fitting, while others have had better result with the piece from tick. Curious if the actual piece is different or if it is just variance between the parts/transmissions.
Looking to compile results/impressions from those who replaced their shift isolator cup with a bronze unit ,(tick,gearbox,etc?) Would also like to hear from those that replaced with a new plastic cup or inspected theirs and did nothing.
I was under the impression that bronze cups from "Gearbox" have been ill fitting, while others have had better result with the piece from tick. Curious if the actual piece is different or if it is just variance between the parts/transmissions.
Last edited by hefftone; 03-08-2015 at 01:04 PM.
03-08-2015, 01:19 PM
#3
The parts are made by the respective sellers and while they should be identical, real world results have shown otherwise. My Gearbox cup fit too snugly and caused immediate issues. I know of at least one other member hear with the same experience. Some of the binding freed up with several months of daily use, but it still wasn't free. When I had my trans pulled again for upgrades at Finish Line, they noted the ill-fitting Gearbox cup, replaced it with OEM plastic, and I have not had any issues with binding since. I asked Finish Line if I should replace it with another bronze bushing and they said they always use the OEM plastic cup and haven't noticed any longevity issues.
My original oem cup had 56K on it and the only reason I had it replaced was part of a shotgun approach to correct the slop in the shifting mechanism. While I did not have the opportunity to inspect it myself, the installer told me he didn't think it was the source of any slop. The biggest slop culprits were the shifter bushings and shifter mounting bushings which I replaced myself, and the pivot in the linkage that I addressed with bronze bushings from Brian and a tack weld.
My original oem cup had 56K on it and the only reason I had it replaced was part of a shotgun approach to correct the slop in the shifting mechanism. While I did not have the opportunity to inspect it myself, the installer told me he didn't think it was the source of any slop. The biggest slop culprits were the shifter bushings and shifter mounting bushings which I replaced myself, and the pivot in the linkage that I addressed with bronze bushings from Brian and a tack weld.
03-09-2015, 01:27 PM
#5
I have one. Had to clean it up with a dremel since it was too big, but other than that, it sat in snugly.
As far as shifting impressions, I can't say that it made any big difference, if any at all.
As far as shifting impressions, I can't say that it made any big difference, if any at all.
03-09-2015, 01:45 PM
#6
Guessing by the responses you're talking about the brass cup that goes inside the transmission? Not the brass parts that Brian makes?
In which case I had to trim the one side of the top hat part so it would slide down in, then tap on the ball for it to fit into the socket. So it was that tight but did not cause any binding issues.
I did a bunch of different band-aids at the same time so I couldn't tell you if it specifically helped any, but I do know that common sense tells you it will last longer and distort less on harder fast shifting. If you do nothing but DD your car then I'd call it worthless. Hard drag shifts then I would advocate for it.
In which case I had to trim the one side of the top hat part so it would slide down in, then tap on the ball for it to fit into the socket. So it was that tight but did not cause any binding issues.
I did a bunch of different band-aids at the same time so I couldn't tell you if it specifically helped any, but I do know that common sense tells you it will last longer and distort less on harder fast shifting. If you do nothing but DD your car then I'd call it worthless. Hard drag shifts then I would advocate for it.
03-10-2015, 05:26 PM
#7
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Guessing by the responses you're talking about the brass cup that goes inside the transmission? Not the brass parts that Brian makes?
In which case I had to trim the one side of the top hat part so it would slide down in, then tap on the ball for it to fit into the socket. So it was that tight but did not cause any binding issues.
In which case I had to trim the one side of the top hat part so it would slide down in, then tap on the ball for it to fit into the socket. So it was that tight but did not cause any binding issues.
Their is another member, jerrad, and the shop reneged installing his while doing the clutch.
Nik and Darkcharisma, who did your cups come from?
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03-19-2015, 07:11 PM
#8
I did all the available mods you can do to the shifter, linkage and trans when I did my clutch and engine upgrades so I can't nail down what exactly caused my issues but I am not happy with the way my stuff shifts at all. I will not point fingers at one particular part but I do get a humming vibration that I can only attribute to the bronze cup I put in mine. Even with the radio on it drives me nuts. Sounds like Bee's are in the car. I had to grind the cup to fit on the tabs but everything else fit very well. The bronze cup is actually sloppier than the stock cup. I wish I would have stuck with the stock cup. This thing shifts horribly, it is the notchiest shifter I have ever had and won't speed shift for anything in the world. It takes a ton more energy to shift and it stops before it goes into each gear. Don't even get me started on trying to get into reverse. My only hope is that Phillistine's MC will fix my issues. Hopefully it is a disengagement issue with the stock MC combined with the LS7 Clutch and Slave upgrade. If not, the shifter is probably staying and all the rest of it is going back to stock to include grinding off the welds on the shift rod. This set up is flat out terrible. Worst thing I have done to the car by far.
03-20-2015, 08:02 AM
#9
I did all the available mods you can do to the shifter, linkage and trans when I did my clutch and engine upgrades so I can't nail down what exactly caused my issues but I am not happy with the way my stuff shifts at all. I will not point fingers at one particular part but I do get a humming vibration that I can only attribute to the bronze cup I put in mine. Even with the radio on it drives me nuts. Sounds like Bee's are in the car. I had to grind the cup to fit on the tabs but everything else fit very well. The bronze cup is actually sloppier than the stock cup. I wish I would have stuck with the stock cup. This thing shifts horribly, it is the notchiest shifter I have ever had and won't speed shift for anything in the world. It takes a ton more energy to shift and it stops before it goes into each gear. Don't even get me started on trying to get into reverse. My only hope is that Phillistine's MC will fix my issues. Hopefully it is a disengagement issue with the stock MC combined with the LS7 Clutch and Slave upgrade. If not, the shifter is probably staying and all the rest of it is going back to stock to include grinding off the welds on the shift rod. This set up is flat out terrible. Worst thing I have done to the car by far.
I'd say either you have something too tight, or now the better shifter is showing you the flaws of your t-56. Which is also possible. The master cylinder could also help if you had clutch drag.
How many miles?
Also, I bought my isolator cup I think from Maryland speed.
03-20-2015, 08:23 AM
#10
I did all the available mods you can do to the shifter, linkage and trans when I did my clutch and engine upgrades so I can't nail down what exactly caused my issues but I am not happy with the way my stuff shifts at all. I will not point fingers at one particular part but I do get a humming vibration that I can only attribute to the bronze cup I put in mine. Even with the radio on it drives me nuts. Sounds like Bee's are in the car. I had to grind the cup to fit on the tabs but everything else fit very well. The bronze cup is actually sloppier than the stock cup. I wish I would have stuck with the stock cup. This thing shifts horribly, it is the notchiest shifter I have ever had and won't speed shift for anything in the world. It takes a ton more energy to shift and it stops before it goes into each gear. Don't even get me started on trying to get into reverse. My only hope is that Phillistine's MC will fix my issues. Hopefully it is a disengagement issue with the stock MC combined with the LS7 Clutch and Slave upgrade. If not, the shifter is probably staying and all the rest of it is going back to stock to include grinding off the welds on the shift rod. This set up is flat out terrible. Worst thing I have done to the car by far.
Ultimately, I think the new CS shifter with the bushed handle is going to be a substantial part of the ultimate solution when it comes to noise control versus shift quality.
That being said, bolting the shifter assembly to both the transmission and the car body itself is a crappy way of taking care of business because the shifter base has to "float" so it can move with the drivetrain. This isn't new way if doing it and it seems to work ok in other platforms, but I don't think the v1 base design is as capable of doing this as well as other platforms like the Camaro and mustang and a Tremec rep I spoke with agreed with me.
Because of that I modified a base that bolted to just the transmission and the car shifted better but because it wasnt height adjustable and I had driveline vibration issues I had to take it out so I could realign the drivetrain. I plan on revisiting this but I haven't had the time.
For now, mine shifts ok at best but ultimately, I will solidly mount the shifter base and lose the shift linkage pivot that some have welded up so they can't swivel, pivot or move at all like they are currently designed to do and go with the CS shifter for its noise canceling abilities.
Most if this can be done with the transmission in the car so someday ill get around to it but until then, I'll baby it for the most parts.
03-20-2015, 05:32 PM
#12
So I guess my clutch may be my issue. I let it out in neutral today parked and revved up the motor. Around 4,000 rpm the car started to drive it's self. I thought it engaged low but I didn't think it was that bad. I did the slave when I did the clutch so it should have been good. I also think it is out of balance. I have a wobble/shutter I can't seem to find. I thought it was in the motor bit it keeps checking out. I am almost convinced it is in the clutch. I guess I will pull the trans and see what is up. It appears I am going to do Phill's master sooner than later as well. Might as well get the drive shaft bearing done while I am in there. That still doesn't solve the humming. Do you all think that is coming from the cup or the Home Depot bushings. I only want to pull the trans once.
03-20-2015, 09:14 PM
#14
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Last night I took off the internal shift rail mechanism.
Yes you must narrow the rim to get it to slide into its home, due to an obstruction.
The shift cup does nestle nicely into the hole, but the stem that fits into the cup seems to fit loosely! The stock plastic cup almost has a bit of give/stretch and you feel in pop onto the shift stem. The bronze cup has a bit of wiggle to it.
I do not think I can roll the dice with this part. I will test how it feels by putting it back together outside of the car shifter and all....then swapping back in the stock cup, which I predict will be the better choice.
The home depot bushings, I'm not going to chance that either. My 54 shifter does not rattle at all, I re-used the piece of foam from under the stock shifter...I might actually replace that with some gasket material I have.
Yes you must narrow the rim to get it to slide into its home, due to an obstruction.
The shift cup does nestle nicely into the hole, but the stem that fits into the cup seems to fit loosely! The stock plastic cup almost has a bit of give/stretch and you feel in pop onto the shift stem. The bronze cup has a bit of wiggle to it.
I do not think I can roll the dice with this part. I will test how it feels by putting it back together outside of the car shifter and all....then swapping back in the stock cup, which I predict will be the better choice.
The home depot bushings, I'm not going to chance that either. My 54 shifter does not rattle at all, I re-used the piece of foam from under the stock shifter...I might actually replace that with some gasket material I have.
03-21-2015, 01:46 PM
#16
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
03-21-2015, 04:25 PM
#18
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
You are the man. Thank you sir.
My stock plastic cup does not have that flange rim, like the bronze tick cup. It feels so fragile...searching your part number pulls up images of plastic cup with flange. Weird.
Edit: I found this on rock auto of all places, google images seems to show the same plastic cup, so perhaps this is the GM# (14105942)
All Vehicles > CADILLAC > 2007 > CTS > 6.0L V8 > Transmission-Manual > Shift Lever Bushing
ACDELCO Part # 14105942 GM Original Equipment INCLUDES BUSHING $8.08
My stock plastic cup does not have that flange rim, like the bronze tick cup. It feels so fragile...searching your part number pulls up images of plastic cup with flange. Weird.
Edit: I found this on rock auto of all places, google images seems to show the same plastic cup, so perhaps this is the GM# (14105942)
All Vehicles > CADILLAC > 2007 > CTS > 6.0L V8 > Transmission-Manual > Shift Lever Bushing
ACDELCO Part # 14105942 GM Original Equipment INCLUDES BUSHING $8.08
Last edited by hefftone; 03-22-2015 at 10:45 AM.