Stiff clutch pedal
05-29-2015, 07:16 PM
#21
I inspected the pressure plate fingers today. They look perfectly normal. Last thing I'm trying is taking off the Tick slave line and using the C6 line. Technically shouldn't make a difference since I verified no blockage, but it's the only thing I haven't replaced.
05-29-2015, 07:20 PM
#22
But then how was it soft for a week? Put in new OEM master, pedal was ******* *awesome*, bled it the next weekend, back to stiff...
I inspected the pressure plate fingers today. They look perfectly normal. Last thing I'm trying is taking off the Tick slave line and using the C6 line. Technically shouldn't make a difference since I verified no blockage, but it's the only thing I haven't replaced.
I inspected the pressure plate fingers today. They look perfectly normal. Last thing I'm trying is taking off the Tick slave line and using the C6 line. Technically shouldn't make a difference since I verified no blockage, but it's the only thing I haven't replaced.
The hydraulics should be a very small contributing factor.
05-29-2015, 07:30 PM
#24
My thoughts are that somehow the pressure plate changed.
The fingers may look fine and it may look ok, but that doesn't tell you if anything is binding.
The crappy thing is that it is hard to tell.
I assume you didn't reuse any of the old fluid, so system contamination is probably not suspect.
The fingers may look fine and it may look ok, but that doesn't tell you if anything is binding.
The crappy thing is that it is hard to tell.
I assume you didn't reuse any of the old fluid, so system contamination is probably not suspect.
05-29-2015, 07:42 PM
#26
It is not unheard of.
Usually, master/slave binding is from contamination or rust.
The clutch disc could be hanging up on the splines although that should effect engagement.
One thing that might also be the culprit is that the flywheel is warped and the clutch assay is not sitting flat.
Here is a link to a good read:
http://www.g-w.com/pdf/sampchap/9781605252131_ch07.pdf
JUST A THOUGHT:
I seem to recall someone had a very similar problem and he fussed over that thing for days.
Turned out he had bungled connecting the slave to the master somehow where it was working like yours is, if I recall correctly.
Last edited by heavymetals; 05-29-2015 at 09:14 PM.
05-29-2015, 08:27 PM
#27
Alright, instead of swapping in the C6 slave line for the Tick line, should I just bite the bullet and pull the clutch and test my stocker? I suppose if I have everything basically apart I might as well. Just doesn't seem like it's the culprit, but there's nothing left to replace! Wish me luck...
05-29-2015, 09:29 PM
#29
The line that comes with the C6 slave is longer than factory and you have to bend it. Tick makes a nice steel braided line that is shorter and cleaner. Yes, they have the same ID, but I'm just thinking of anything and everything I haven't tested against. I have the bellhousing off now, will swap clutch in the morning. Time for a motherfuckin drink.
05-30-2015, 12:49 AM
#31
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Is there any chance your clutch pedal is bent in any way ? You've changed 1 of the 3 systems in the clutch circuit but have not found it to fix anything. Maybe disconnect the clutch rod and start looking around for any interference.
Hope you find it.
Hope you find it.
05-30-2015, 06:41 AM
#32
Additionally, if the pedal were bent, then I wouldn't have had that week of easy pedal pressure. It would be easier for me to believe there was a fluke in the pressure plate than for the pedal to unbend itself, then bend back.
05-30-2015, 08:39 AM
#33
I noticed you mentioning bending the slave line... Is it possible you've crimped it somehow? Any time I do something out of the box, I end up notching the bell housing to accomodate where the slave line comes out instead of trying to bend the slave line... I tweaked my bleeder line a too hard of any angle once on an LS9 slave and it caused it to allow air in to the system. Try to keep everything as strait as possible as intended. Just a thought...honestly can't believe this is still happening
Edit just re-read your post about the bend... I know what you're talking about though I've never used any of the slave lines that come with the actual slaves. I've always used a long stainless braided line that is connected directly from the tilton master to the slave, no disconnect point
Edit just re-read your post about the bend... I know what you're talking about though I've never used any of the slave lines that come with the actual slaves. I've always used a long stainless braided line that is connected directly from the tilton master to the slave, no disconnect point
05-30-2015, 11:48 AM
#35
You have it apart, start with the hydraulics.
I don't know what bleeder you have, but I would clamp the slave from moving and open the bleeder and pump fluid.
If it pumps easily with little effort, I would say go to step two.
That is the pressure plate, which could be binding.
I will skip the slave as you say it is new although that is not a guarantee that it is not the culprit.
TRUST NOTHING.
If the flywheel is warped, the clutch assay will not be "true" and the slave will be trying to push on a pressure plate that is at an angle which may bind with the springs and guides.
Did you install the flywheel the proper way?
Fidanza(?) requires an oven preheat before you mount it.
05-30-2015, 12:59 PM
#36
I have very promising news. I put the stock clutch on just now, mounted up the trans, bled it (with a Motive bleeder; plenty of fluid went through it), and the pedal feels exactly as it should. So as of now, it LOOKS like it might have been the pressure plate.
As for the flywheel, it was off of someone's LS2, so it's just a stocker. I tightened it in the proper sequence up to 73 ft-lbs. If the pedal remains stock stiffness for the rest of the week, it won't matter because I'm going to order a new flywheel and a new OEM clutch since I shouldn't be running a mismatched flywheel and disc, unless you disagree. Only 3k miles on the resurfaced flywheel, but I don't know the abuse or mileage before that.
My plan right now is to attach the driveshaft and test for proper engagement while it's in the air. A soft pedal isn't worth anything if the car doesn't move at all/move correctly.
As for the flywheel, it was off of someone's LS2, so it's just a stocker. I tightened it in the proper sequence up to 73 ft-lbs. If the pedal remains stock stiffness for the rest of the week, it won't matter because I'm going to order a new flywheel and a new OEM clutch since I shouldn't be running a mismatched flywheel and disc, unless you disagree. Only 3k miles on the resurfaced flywheel, but I don't know the abuse or mileage before that.
My plan right now is to attach the driveshaft and test for proper engagement while it's in the air. A soft pedal isn't worth anything if the car doesn't move at all/move correctly.
05-30-2015, 01:57 PM
#37
I have very promising news. I put the stock clutch on just now, mounted up the trans, bled it (with a Motive bleeder; plenty of fluid went through it), and the pedal feels exactly as it should. So as of now, it LOOKS like it might have been the pressure plate.
As for the flywheel, it was off of someone's LS2, so it's just a stocker. I tightened it in the proper sequence up to 73 ft-lbs. If the pedal remains stock stiffness for the rest of the week, it won't matter because I'm going to order a new flywheel and a new OEM clutch since I shouldn't be running a mismatched flywheel and disc, unless you disagree. Only 3k miles on the resurfaced flywheel, but I don't know the abuse or mileage before that.
My plan right now is to attach the driveshaft and test for proper engagement while it's in the air. A soft pedal isn't worth anything if the car doesn't move at all/move correctly.
As for the flywheel, it was off of someone's LS2, so it's just a stocker. I tightened it in the proper sequence up to 73 ft-lbs. If the pedal remains stock stiffness for the rest of the week, it won't matter because I'm going to order a new flywheel and a new OEM clutch since I shouldn't be running a mismatched flywheel and disc, unless you disagree. Only 3k miles on the resurfaced flywheel, but I don't know the abuse or mileage before that.
My plan right now is to attach the driveshaft and test for proper engagement while it's in the air. A soft pedal isn't worth anything if the car doesn't move at all/move correctly.
I would go with an LS7 package and get it balanced before you install it.
I use an LS9 twin disc and it is as smooth as the OEM was.
05-30-2015, 03:47 PM
#39
So you're saying put the same thing back in that I just got done running around in circles trying to figure out? I'm sure you can appreciate the irony. It sounds like I just got a bad pressure plate, but now I'm very skittish. The 4th time I have to drop the trans, I'd like it to be something that has a higher chance of having a soft pedal, so that leaves OEM or LS9. One reason I don't want to get the LS9 is I will never, ever, use it to its full potential and it's also difficult to justify the cost when I want to do 5-lug wheel conversion and freshen up the motor.