brake bleeding for 6 hours + WTF
08-15-2010, 06:58 PM
#1
brake bleeding for 6 hours + WTF I dunno, maybe Im just an idiot, but on the new car (another 96 camaro 4wheel disc brakes) I have finally finished swapping the rotors/calipers/pads. I've been bleeding this thing for 6+ hours and the pedal is still spongy. Red brake light stays on when the car is running.
Heres background info.
All 4 calipers were replaced, all 4 sets of brake pads, and all 4 rotors. The rear brake lines have been replaced from the abs block back to the "T", and from the "T" to each caliper.
Ive gone through 2 litres of brake fluid now, and as far as I can see there is no leaks.
As per haines manual, I have started with the rear most abs bleeder, then the front abs bleeder, then proceeded to the rear passenger side, rear drivers side, front passenger side, front divers side and repeat about 50 times.
I have someone in the car who I have pump the pedal 5 times and hold it on the 6th time until I say "release" (which is after I have closed the bleeder so that I do not suck air backwards.
I've never in my life had this much trouble bleeding brakes...what's going on?
Also, I took the car around the block and did a couple of hard stops...came back and my entire front end was smoking up...smelled like burning brakes. Is that just the new brakes brakeing in? Never smelled that before either (and I've broken in my brakes on my other car here)
I'm kinda stumped here guys...
Heres background info.
All 4 calipers were replaced, all 4 sets of brake pads, and all 4 rotors. The rear brake lines have been replaced from the abs block back to the "T", and from the "T" to each caliper.
Ive gone through 2 litres of brake fluid now, and as far as I can see there is no leaks.
As per haines manual, I have started with the rear most abs bleeder, then the front abs bleeder, then proceeded to the rear passenger side, rear drivers side, front passenger side, front divers side and repeat about 50 times.
I have someone in the car who I have pump the pedal 5 times and hold it on the 6th time until I say "release" (which is after I have closed the bleeder so that I do not suck air backwards.
I've never in my life had this much trouble bleeding brakes...what's going on?
Also, I took the car around the block and did a couple of hard stops...came back and my entire front end was smoking up...smelled like burning brakes. Is that just the new brakes brakeing in? Never smelled that before either (and I've broken in my brakes on my other car here)
I'm kinda stumped here guys...
08-15-2010, 10:08 PM
#2
Yes, new brakes smell when they first get hot. Especially if you changed everything - calipers, rotors, pads. The heat (smoke) may have intensified since the brakes were not bled properly, and only 1 or 2 of the brakes are taking all the load.
Not sure about your bleeding procedure, though. It sounds like you are leaving the bleeder open while you assisant is pumping, and then telling him to "release" (whatever he interpets that as).
The best instructions to give your assistance is either "up" or "down". No pumping, just up or down. That way you will only open the bleeder on a down stroke. And hopefully the guy in the car isn't mashing the pedal. Smooth, easy, frim pressure stokes is the way to bleed.
And the sequence should be from the farthest from the ABS block to the closest: RR, LR, RF, LF.
Not sure about your bleeding procedure, though. It sounds like you are leaving the bleeder open while you assisant is pumping, and then telling him to "release" (whatever he interpets that as).
The best instructions to give your assistance is either "up" or "down". No pumping, just up or down. That way you will only open the bleeder on a down stroke. And hopefully the guy in the car isn't mashing the pedal. Smooth, easy, frim pressure stokes is the way to bleed.
And the sequence should be from the farthest from the ABS block to the closest: RR, LR, RF, LF.
08-15-2010, 10:28 PM
#3
no no...He depresses the brake pedal 5 times and on the 6th time he holds it to the floor, I then open the bleeder and he doesnt release that pedal until I tell him to, which is after I have closed off the bleeder.
That is my sequence except I also do the two bleeders on the abs module first (it says to do these first in haines)
Im starting to think that maybe there is air trapped in the abs that is just recirculating into the system? But my abs light is off....just the red brake light/parking brake light is on. (parking brakes down, plus they're not hooked up)
That is my sequence except I also do the two bleeders on the abs module first (it says to do these first in haines)
Im starting to think that maybe there is air trapped in the abs that is just recirculating into the system? But my abs light is off....just the red brake light/parking brake light is on. (parking brakes down, plus they're not hooked up)
08-16-2010, 04:20 AM
#5
ABS motor cycles every time after ignition is turned on, and wheels spin to 10 MPH - not something you want to simulate while under the car.
Best way to do it is with a scan tool.
The red brake light is for the parking brake AND it also indicates if there is a hydraulic problem.
Best way to do it is with a scan tool.
The red brake light is for the parking brake AND it also indicates if there is a hydraulic problem.
08-17-2010, 11:36 AM
#7
Sounds like you have the valve tripped which is why the red light is on. With all the bleeders closed smash the brake pedal as hard as you can. I mean pull your leg up to your chin and hit it hard. That should free up the valve and then continue bleeding the entire system again. Make sure the person pushing the pedal isn't pushing it too hard and far down when you open the screw or you'll trip the valve again and it'll take you forever.
