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STS LS2 Build on 1998 Z28 Camaro

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Old 10-19-2011, 12:00 AM   #21
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Al, i didn't get an email...i will go through all of my email accounts to see if something got overlooked. My wife sometimes has my blackberry and if she answered my phone beeping, the email wouldn't have shown up as "unread". Thanks for posting this, i'll check and reply back.
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:05 AM   #22
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Here's a vid of my car moving for the first time...i've since installed a muffler post turbo as this exhaust was setting off car alarms as i drove by at sub-3k rpms:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZ7x-HKF2_4

Here are a few recent pics:





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Old 10-19-2011, 12:09 AM   #23
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I have to sort out a P0300 code that i can't get rid of. I am going to replace my blaster coils, i've rechecked the spark plug gapping and my wires are fine.

I'm thinking it's going to be related to a tuning issue, knock sensors (as i am running poly engine mounts), or a local mechanic said worst case scenario...i have something internal going on (i hope this isn't the case).

On top of this, i have to sort out a Racetronix Fuel Pump issue. My fuel pump won't "kick down"...it stays running in high mode all the time (noisy). I'm hoping to address this before the summer of 2012.
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Old 10-19-2011, 03:16 PM   #24
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I have to sort out a P0300 code that i can't get rid of. I am going to replace my blaster coils, i've rechecked the spark plug gapping and my wires are fine.

I'm thinking it's going to be related to a tuning issue, knock sensors (as i am running poly engine mounts), or a local mechanic said worst case scenario...i have something internal going on (i hope this isn't the case).

On top of this, i have to sort out a Racetronix Fuel Pump issue. My fuel pump won't "kick down"...it stays running in high mode all the time (noisy). I'm hoping to address this before the summer of 2012.

MSD Blaster coils are your problem.

Do a search,the stock ones are more than enough if you want something more get some truck coils.
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Old 10-19-2011, 05:51 PM   #25
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Your car was pretty loud pre muffler addition! PO300 is common code for aftermarket cams and most times people simply turn it off in tuning.
You can possibly depending on if you are currently still running maf or not and speed density yet simply read the individual cylinders and then narrow down exactly what one has problem but again it might be simply the cam you used.
I am running the very mellow ls9 cam in my 427 and no code 300.
I am seeing some knock sensor codes sometimes though.
Maybe from the relocation of the sensors on my ls3 engine from normal ls1 locations.
I had no po 300 code with the lingerfelter gt7 cam in my 408 either but did get some when was running my mt1 cam in my old 346. As said it can simply be the cam you picked. And if it is just cam then likley it is not causing any performance loss at all and can simply be turned off.
But if you see big misfire on one cylinder then you have something to look at more closely. I did have those problems a few times when had burned up ,fubared up wires.car was also doing things though like machine gun noise when floored it. And running pretty rough.
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Old 10-20-2011, 12:57 AM   #26
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I emailed the owner of Champion Motors (Toronto, ON), who mentioned a Crank Re-Learn may be needed. I got ahold of a friend who has HP Tuners, and after 2 Crank Re-Learns...no more misfires!

The misfires i had were with the stock coils...one of which was pooched anyways. I have the MSD's on there now, but i will keep and clean my stock coils and hold onto them in case there are issues down the road..thankfully they are easy to swap out.

I am going to park the car for the winter by Nov 1st, so tuning will recommence in 2012.

All i need to do now, is a little more engine break in, put the interior back together and then sort out the fuel issues i have.

Getting closer..one step at a time.
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Old 12-06-2011, 06:09 AM   #27
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I have just started thinking and researching what problems i am contending with. At this stage i am going to start looking for any possible vacuum leaks, and once i'm confident there aren't any, then i will do a boost leak test as a precautionary measure. Both of these i'd like to have done before spring so that once the snow is gone i can get the camaro back on the road and start the long trek to getting this car dialed in properly.
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Old 12-06-2011, 05:32 PM   #28
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I got ahold of a friend who has HP Tuners, and after 2 Crank Re-Learns...no more misfires!
I need to do a Crank relearn on my Camaro as well...Can you explain how you used HP Tuners to perform a Crank relearn. I also have HP tuners and would like to do this.
Thanks
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Old 12-10-2011, 03:03 AM   #29
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There is a tab option in HP Tuners for a Crank Re-Learn:

When you initiate the relearn, you have to steadily raise the RPM to above 4000 (WITHIN a 10 second period).

As soon as the RPM is high enough you will get a sharp stumble for a moment... immediately release the throttle and let the engine spin down to idle, turn key off and wait at least 15 seconds.

As mentioned, you may need to try once or twice, but is should work for you.
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Old 12-10-2011, 10:22 AM   #30
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Thanks for the info, I will have to try this come Spring time.
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Old 01-07-2012, 10:18 AM   #31
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FrankieD...if you run into any problems..i will pm you the email of our local tuner and see if he can give you a hand.
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Old 02-29-2012, 05:45 AM   #32
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I haven't had any ability/time to test out possible vacuum leaks with this turbo setup. But i got to thinking about ECU issues, and between my tuner and myself we figure whats happened is that there is an RPM Limiter on the base tune from STS.

The original tune appears to have a 2 Step tune built into it which we think is causing my vehicle to redline at 3750rpms. When the snow melts, i'm going to get my tuner over and he's going to rewrite the tune, and with the help of Rick Squires with STS, we are hoping to get the tune sorted out, and then put some miles on the car as i start dipping into boost.

I still have a wiring issue with the Racetronix Fuel Pump that i am going to have to get help into sorting out. Once this is done it should be off for a dyno session and see what we can pull out of this car.
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Old 03-27-2012, 10:18 AM   #33
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A local member of another forum let me know that the noise that i think is my fuel pump, is likely the STS supplied Oil Pump running in High Mode when the ignition is turned on. Later in the week, i'm going to jack up the car again and get underneath it to see exactly what's going on. I removed some of the PCV pieces/wiring from the STS kit and apparently that can cause the Oil Pump to default to running in High mode all the time....so we'll see.

I've almost got my interior back together. I ended up pulling out the tan carpet and ordering a full carpet from Auto Custom Carpets, and after lots of cutting (and swearing), have the black carpet in. I'm just finishing off with a few interior screws and trim pieces.

Once i get my new Hurst Shifter installed and some of the snow melts here and the sand is removed from our streets, i'm going to start driving this car and down the road get that ECU limiter removed and start putting some miles on this baby finally.

Once i can get this car (street tuned), i will head off to a local dyno and put my car through it's paces and see what she's going to put down at the rear wheels. I will have someone taking pics and vids.
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Old 03-31-2012, 01:59 AM   #34
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Between a move to a new house and going through a layoff, i haven't had much for time with my Fbody, but here are some updates:

I've gotten most of the interior back together after swapping the tan carpet for a black one, and i have my Z back up on blocks to sort out some fuel/oil pump issues:





I still have some cleanup to do, but this should be functional for the 2012 season, and then it'll look better for 2013:

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Old 04-13-2012, 12:38 AM   #35
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One of our local members was able to scan my ABS codes tonight and there is some issue with my front right wheel wiring...which i'll check out shortly. Could be a broken wire or something simple-ish to fix, we'll see.

With encouragement, i was able to bury the pedal and found (long story short) that i have a 3500rpm limter in neutral and 2nd gear.

The 1st, 3rd, and 4th gears when buried will rev past 3500rpms but as the boost builds to 4psi, it starts dropping off.

The car is going up on jackstands tomorrow and the Fuel Filter is gonna get changed to see the fuel pump noise is from a blocked filter (resistance)...and if that doesn't solve it, than a trap door is being hacked up for ease of access due to the nature of the current rear end setup.

I want to find a "genie in a bottle" rub the crap outta it and get this car sorted out with one of my 3 wishes
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Old 04-13-2012, 05:30 AM   #36
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Always something once you start modding things to the moon! Been following your cars progress on f body board and on here. Sounds like three or four problems mostly annoying you now. Fuel pump noise .yeah much easier to cut hatch opening. I did that on my 99 and don't regret it. Can get in there very quick if have to. Nothing would be worse than being far from home and having fuel pump go or some problem in there that would require hours of labor to fix at some shop out in nowhere. Hatch solves that problem and is common in many cars. My eagle talons use factory access panels. Makes it simple to swap /fix fuel pumps. Minutes versus hours.
Restrictions can cause increases in noise. So for sure you want to check it possibly without fuel filter and change out fuel filter. And you should have fuel pressure guage on car very important on boosted car to know fuel pressure. Incar are nice too but pricey ,minimum would run an underhood one at all times.And you can blow out lines with compressed air. And once you have access hatch not hard to swap out pumps they are pretty cheap so having a spare wouldn't cost much or second pump to swap just to see if that is problem.
My twin intank pumps are pretty quiet in my 99 although been awhile since driven the 99 last august. I went intank not external to keep the car as quiet as possible since it was made to be a street not track car.And second pump comes on at higher boost level they don't both run at same time. And got at least back up if one pump goes down far from home.

Abs problems can be found faster with scanner as these can pinpoint which sensor/wheel/side is problem and give some clues. You can have a broken or damaged wire to sensor, bad sensor,etc abs problems can be annoying had one on wifes 96z but forget now what was the cause.

Your boosting not past 4psi problem still sounds like boost leak to me. And obviously you have to be able to go to full throttle or at least heavy into the throttle and higher up the rpm band to make any boost with your think pretty big single.
And you have no reason to have a rev limiter likely lower than 6500 or 7000 rpm depending on your engine builders recommendations. I would have thought you would have had Ck already give it a decent base tune. Just get that afr at wot in nice safe range and don't worry much about the part throttle as bit off there isn't going to do much. Of course always run premium fuel for safety as well. If you are not getting good boost also could be
turbo problem, gate problem are you external or internal gate? Are you running manual or electronic boost controller? If external what base spring? Usually you can't go much past double the gate spring on externals. A quick test sometimes is to disconnect line to gate and watch boost carefully. Of course don't recommend bypassing gate for more than carefully watched tests and you can still control boost with right foot.

I found automotive smoke machine to work great for finding boost leaks on my cars.
They had one at south ok tire in Regina. Great little helper for FI cars.
You will of course need more rpm in higher gears and two steps more on manual cars than autos which can build good boost with the proper stalls. Manuals really benefit from two steps.
Not sure how the limiter works in neutral if it does work like a true two step. I run msd two step in my 99 tt and it builds boost like crazy. I get more boost than know what to do with and my twins spool up quick have to log them sometime but bet all in by 2500 or 3000 or so ,of course the 427 cubic inches help as well.

Anyway looking forward to seeing future results with your car and maybe even seeing it if you do drive it out to Kelowna this year.

I had some gremlins on my 99 that were and still are driving me a bit nuts and hopefully can fix them this year.They were mostly minor things.
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Old 04-13-2012, 05:33 AM   #37
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One of our local members was able to scan my ABS codes tonight and there is some issue with my front right wheel wiring...which i'll check out shortly. Could be a broken wire or something simple-ish to fix, we'll see.

With encouragement, i was able to bury the pedal and found (long story short) that i have a 3500rpm limter in neutral and 2nd gear.

The 1st, 3rd, and 4th gears when buried will rev past 3500rpms but as the boost builds to 4psi, it starts dropping off.

The car is going up on jackstands tomorrow and the Fuel Filter is gonna get changed to see the fuel pump noise is from a blocked filter (resistance)...and if that doesn't solve it, than a trap door is being hacked up for ease of access due to the nature of the current rear end setup.

I want to find a "genie in a bottle" rub the crap outta it and get this car sorted out with one of my 3 wishes
Oops tired it is late . See you did scan it and narrow it down to the right front wheel on the abs issue. That helps.
And maybe you can give me one or two of those wishes.
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Old 04-13-2012, 06:31 AM   #38
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So i popped out and had my ABS system scanned...there's something amiss in the front right section of my car...which i'll czech out over the weekend after the camaro is up on jackstands.

Now to my tuning or car related question:

The rpm limiter is set to kick in around 3500rpm in neutral (fact).

After some prompting from Rogue tonight, i buried the needle in 3rd and 4th gear to find...there is no limiter and there was no "stalling" out around the 3500rpm mark. What did happen though is the boost would build to 4 psi and then bleed off, but the car would rev to near redline and the AFR's were anywhere between 10.6-11.3.....in the 3rd and 4th gear with the pedal to the metal.

What is interesting is the limiter only kicks in while in the 2nd gear.

This got me to thinking...what about 1st gear. So on my way home, i stopped the car, buried the pedal in 1st gear and she revs to well over 6k rpms without cutting out! Boost bleeds off quickly...but it's not limited.

2nd gear seems to be my issue (electronically).

Could the 2nd gear and neutral rev limiter be somehow connected?

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Well is this still the sts tune in there?
I can possibly see them using limiter in neutral to mabye act as two step type of thing.
I can't see any reason at all for any limiter happening or to be programmed in 1st,2nd ,all your gears. You should for sure be at 6000,6500,7000 whatever your engine builder recommends but 6500 to 7000 should be fine would think. For now even get all gears even neutral set to 6000 or 6500.
It would take Ck seconds to do this and your afr wot looks fine good enough for some short full throttle blasts.
But keep saying this but certainly sounds like a boost leak problem. Your turbo should boost to 20psi no problem. But once again are you running internal or external gate? And if external what spring is in there. And if external with say 10psi base spring then maybe you have problem with gate . Or you have fubared turbo.
Get that limiter gone NOW! I could take it out in seconds if was there .Its super easy to take out limiter. And you set it on each gear and neutral separately. Its simple tuning adjustment.

But most common reason for lack of boost is boost leak. Of course if you have a 4psi spring in there.. The spring is maximum boost unless you have controller hooked up.
Had 7.5 springs in my twin turbo. So 7.5 was max could hit with no controller hooked up. Put in 10psi base springs end of last season. Now can hit 10psi no controller. You can't go under the base spring either. This is on external gate but thought sts has external tial gate in their system?
And you can put the gate together wrong with the ring in there so maybe have to take gate apart and check it. Should be easy to disassemble gate in your car not so fun in mine to get to passenger gate.
Also if you have a boost controller you can try upping the boost or take line off to the gate as a quick test. If you still can't go past 4psi and you do not have limiter in the higher gears set to some stupid low rpm like 3500 then its boost leak,bad turbo or something with the gate.
As said if you can get access to a an automotive smoke machine you can usually find boost leaks quickly. Couplers and clamps are one bit area for leaks. t bolt clamps are much better than worm gear clamps. And you can get leaks in some funny places. Intake manifold, injectors,etc. But normally will be couplers and piping leaks. I guess slight chance your turbo is fubar even new ones can sometimes be duds.
And assume your boost guage is working properly. That car should be decent fast with even 4psi but should start being smoking fast at 7 to 10psi. And that should be safe range on pump gas no alc injection with your current afr .Timing of course is very important too want to make sure you are not running too much timing better to be safe than sorry in that area.
So isn't Ck around these days to give you 5 minutes to fix this stuff for you?
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:40 AM   #39
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Got the ABS issue sorted out, turns out it was a severed wire...not sure from what, but i'll chalk it up to when the LS2 motor was put in at some point.

The new fuel filter made no difference in fuel pump noise, so the hatch has to be cut for diagnostic reasons.

Tomorrow, i am going to turn up the "Turbosmart Boost T" and see if that helps to allow the car to build more boost than the 4 psi i've recently hit.

CK has been fairly busy with personal things as well as other builds, so i haven't harassed him for time. Though i am at a point now where my issues are down solely to:

1. ECU (2nd gear limiter and a 2nd look and revision of the initial tune)
2. Fuel pump noise (trap door access to be done shortly)

We have a driveway being poured soon, and i work pretty much steady on nights the next 2 weeks, so the car may end up sitting for upwards of a month after tomorrow. I am hoping to ask CK for a bit of his time and bring my car to him and see what he thinks as i don't deal with the HP Tuners program and tuning.

I'll keep this thread updated as anything new is sorted out....it's slowly getting there
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:16 AM   #40
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Got the ABS issue sorted out, turns out it was a severed wire...not sure from what, but i'll chalk it up to when the LS2 motor was put in at some point.

The new fuel filter made no difference in fuel pump noise, so the hatch has to be cut for diagnostic reasons.

Tomorrow, i am going to turn up the "Turbosmart Boost T" and see if that helps to allow the car to build more boost than the 4 psi i've recently hit.

CK has been fairly busy with personal things as well as other builds, so i haven't harassed him for time. Though i am at a point now where my issues are down solely to:

1. ECU (2nd gear limiter and a 2nd look and revision of the initial tune)
2. Fuel pump noise (trap door access to be done shortly)

We have a driveway being poured soon, and i work pretty much steady on nights the next 2 weeks, so the car may end up sitting for upwards of a month after tomorrow. I am hoping to ask CK for a bit of his time and bring my car to him and see what he thinks as i don't deal with the HP Tuners program and tuning.

I'll keep this thread updated as anything new is sorted out....it's slowly getting there
Good on the abs, one problem fixed!
Be interesting to see what boost controller does but think you have boost leak . Is it external gate? What spring is in there. maybe you only have 4psi spring? Of course you can go higher than spring pressure with boost controller but not lower than spring pressure And usually can't go much more than double spring pressure with controller.

Too bad you just need Ck to give you one minute to take out /check rev limiters you want them all 6000 to 7000 depending on builders recommendation. Full tuning would take a long time hour and hours on street ,faster on dyno. Full throttle once close is main thing then part throttle later on.As long as you are rich enough and keep timing low enough you should be safe and car should run pretty good. Most times 10.5 thru about 11.5 is good afr ,timing depends on compression etc. But likely be at 10 or 12 range for now.Run of course premium fuel.

Boost leak you might need to find automotive smoke machine. Hopefully there is one in Stoon there for sure is one at Ok tire south in Regina.

On the fuel pump well filter didn't help. Do you have fuel pressure gauge under hood? Course hard to check that one when driving you need other type for that mechanical you could tape to windshield expensive electrical you can use in car.
I would think blockage in lines might cause pump to work super hard. Did you run that pump out of fuel? That can kill pumps.

But having access is still much better anyway. I have think how to or link to it on one of my old posts. It was pretty easy and bought some hatch cover off think it was ebay. Made things look more professional.Forget already how we cut it out maybe tin snips grinders make a lot of sparks.
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